Flashing cruise control and solid check engine light on

What were the codes?

PO452 is the code

Code P0452: Evap Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low.

What does that mean

That the part needs to be replaced.

Check for disconnected rear rubber hose or electrical connector. Check gas cap for the hell of it too. 452 is pretty rare, and innocuous. Rather than pulling the tank to get to the valve I'd just live with it at this age.

The check engine light is on , traction light , and cruise is blinking -- i have a OBDII Scanner and there are no codes - and it passed emissions a couple days ago --i unhook the neg cable and it goes away for about 2 days --gotta be something like a air hose or something ? - i have another one , same thing , but it has a bank 1 lean code --

Year and model? Regardless, rescan to pick up a code.

And note that a CEL cleared by power disconnect only will recur after three consecutive restarts with same running fault code.

it is usually a loose gas cap--re-tighten. a couple of on/off cycles and the lights will go off

Have the same problem with check engine light, traction light, and blinking cruise control icon on.. Will be replacing spark plugs tomorrow and will be disconnecting the battery also in the process. I already replaced my gas cap for the Hell of it, and checked all the fuses and they seemed fine..

Scan to identify source of CEL.

I had the same issue. Cruise light on, anti skid light on, engine light on. Checked gas gap, no luck. Had Autozone run the scanner and it indicated it was the catalytic converter. Guy recommended a product, Cataclean said to follow the directions. Take tank down to 1/4 put product in, drive 14-15 miles, refill tank. It worked! All light out.

Sorry, but it's unlikely to help longterm, as the ECM isn't programmed to accept richer fuel than CA warm weather juice. You can call Subie and see if your VIN qualifies for a free cat; otherwise just live with the PO420 CEL, as many thousands do.

I've got a 2014 WRX that just had this happen in the process of evacuating due to Hurricane Dorian. I've got about 200 miles left to drive. How bad will it be to push on?

Geez. Disconnect the battery and wait an hour. If the CEL persists scan it someday when you've time. No big deal. Only when a CEL FLASHES CONTINUOUSLY need you investigate with greater haste. Relax...first things first.

So I literally just bought a 2009 Subaru Forester and the CEL AND TC AND CC lights are all on as well...and I bought it 3 days ago but do these lights mean there's no hope and it's going to be a crazy amount of money or are these just lights that happen to come on more often than they should?? HELP!!!

See my answer above.

My 2005 outback has check engine and cruise light..any suggestions or just ignore

Reread above. If it's BLINKING rather than steady DO NOT IGNORE!

We have the same problem but my wife forgot to put the gas cap on tight. It was half off. But not sure how to shut the lights off.

Disconnect battery for an hour. Light should disappear after 3rd restart. If not, simply scan the code and erase it. Subsequent crank will be long, but ignore that.

Had a Subaru technician check the lights for me and apparently the code comes back as misfiring on 3 cylinders which doesn't make since because the car runs and sounds perfect and the technician also said it was strange because he drove it and said it was fine...might end up being a bad computer is what I was told..but light still came back on even though vehicle is running fine

Hmmm.... Misfire codes on 2000-2009 2.5i on more than one cylinder are rare unless a coil pack is open or shorting internally. It COULD be that 3 of your ignition wires are shorting to engine metal, but that's stretching the odds. Nevertheless, remove and clean the four cables at the coil pack, and then dress the cables at least 1/4" away from any metal. Don't worry if they seem "loose." If multiple CEL misfires continue I'd try swapping in a used coilpack (cheap on eBay). You may want to check the PLUG end of the cables too, in the event that the plugs are fouling from too much oil seepage past the valve cover gaskets. Regardless, remove the plugs and install new iridium ones if they're old. Clean up the wires and reuse or replace if original. Usually when a PO30x misfire occurs a dealer tech will replace the coil, all wires and plugs for $500 when redressing a single cable away from metal (especially in damp weather) solves the misfire. But, again, with THREE cylinders misfiring I suspect either a bad coil pack or cable plug ends filled with oil. Adding a bottle of oil "stop-leak" to the motor will gently expand these seals so that seepage may stop, as well. Also be sure to use 5w30 or 10w30 and NOT 0w20 to minimize seepage in the future. The worst case is that your internal valves are hanging up, requiring an expensive rebuild. RSVP, as this is an interesting example of multiple misfires. Ern TSG/B

So, my 2006 Forester had the same blinking cruse light and steady check engine light and i fixed the problem by removing the spark plug wires cleaning out the spark plug cups then installed a new set of ignition wires and the problem gone! This is because those cars have an inherent flaw in the gasket that separates the valve cover and spark plug cups. They dry out and oil leaks into the spark plug cups and migrates up into the ignition wires and triggers the codes that cause those warning lights to go off. The ultimate fix is to replace the dried out gaskets but that will cost a bundle.

Eventually you'll flood a chamber again. Then just scan the code and remove and clean the plug at the misfiring cylinder. Switch to 10w40 oil with a bottle of stop-leak additive to expand the plug seals to quench the leaks significantly. But do note that removing the covers to pop in new seals is NOT a big deal. Best, Ern TSG/B

Learn from me, I was told by a mechanic that my whole engine needed to be replaced. I am a novice to the car industry and listened to him. $3200 later the issue still remains....

Facts?

1 Check the gas cap, apply a line coat of vaseline to be sure it is sealing 2 Check under the hood for any disconnected vacuum lines 3 Clean out the the throttle body real good 4 Reset the codes to see if the issue has cleard 5 If the issue persists take it to a mechanic and bend over.

Releasing fuel cap fixed me. Thanks Robin!!

Hi, i have a 2010 subaru forester about 115k miles, this morning the check engine light came on, the traction off light came on, and the cruise control light is blinking, despite reseating gas cap, any thoughts?

Did you read all the above? Scan the code and then erase it. Resecure your gas cap tightly and restart and drive. If CEL recurs scan again, and investigate.

Aite this just happened to me. Stayed at big bear CA . snowed all day. Next coming back home . the check engine light was on. Cruise control was blinking . s drive light was blinking and my uphill assist came on. And also tire pressure light. By the way it is a 2016 forest xt . drove down the mountain to my buddy house about 50+ miles. Turned off the car. Restarted it and no lights. I am guessing the sensors got frozen so they showed as a fault. Kind of weird that subaru would not think to protect these sensor for harsh weather.

Hmmm....

Hi, I just experienced the same thing with my 2010 Subaru Forester. I was driving along when the Check Engine Light and the anti-skid came on, along with a blinking Cruise light. I read through all the helpful answers on this forum and found out that my gas cap was completely loose! After replacing the cap the lights stayed on despite me restarting the car about 10 times. At this point I went to Autozone and borrowed the scanner. Same code as above: PO452 with an additional C0057. I wasn't sure how to delete the codes and it didn't even seem to be an option for the borrowed reader so I disconnected my battery cable for an hour. That was yesterday. I've restarted the car perhaps 4 time and the lights are staying off. Sound good, right? But I feel like it wants to stall when I am shifting down to stop at a light (its manual) where before it was driving OK, even with the above lights on. Would this have anything to do with my disconnecting the battery? Probably will head out to the mechanic, but wondered if anybody had advice. Thanks!

Your power interruption (battery cut) results in all the emissions sensors needing to reboot with accumulated driving over several conditions, inc a few highway accelerations. Usually they'll all be reset by 100-200mi driving. So be patient.

Thanks Ernest, will do. Just to clarify, do you think that the fact it feels like it could stall as I shift down could be related to the battery being disconnected?

The 2010 For/Imps use the older timing-belt driven SOHC motor who's throttle body chamber is subject to gumming up over time, slightly clogging the thin crack between it and the throttle butterfly, creating a weak or lumpy idle. Remove air inlet and spray-clean and wipe with a rag the entire inner chamber, pinching the butterfly open with another finger (or stick) to wipe the upper and lower inside edges coated with gunk. Restarting will be ugly as you're initially burning cleaner fluid, but it should stabilize in a few seconds. Again, the emissions sensors have to reboot too, including one controlling idle emissions through the ECM.

Further observations: The idle is decent enough. The problem occurs precisely when I am slowing down towards a stop, with the clutch depressed, in first gear. What happens then is that the anti-skid light flickers on and off quickly and it feels like it wants to stall, but hasn't. To me it is odd that this problem just developed after the lights coming on --> me finding the loose gas cap --> disconnecting the battery. Maybe not connected at all, but suspicious timing. Anyway, cleaning the throttle bottle chamber is probably overdue in any case, I'm at 72K miles on an 11 year old vehicle, but taking it apart and doing the cleaning is a bit too much for me. I'll likely take into my mechanic soon, he's busy this week. Meantime, I am driving sparingly and trying to get the sensors to the mileage needed for a reboot. Thanks again.