What is going on with my TRUCK ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Could also be loose or dirty battery connections. Inspect connections. If they have no more adjustment left I would replace them. Also check your negative battery connections on the frame and motor. A loose or dirty frame or motor ground can cause all sorts of weird issues. They will also make your alternator test lower than normal voltages.

I had a v6 2007 base model as a work truck. All the same lights came on (except 4x4 because it was 2x4) @ about 130k, @ first on 4 a bit then off 4 a while. slowly began the switch to off 4 a bit then on 4 a while. Dealer said the code meant the trans. was shoot & the vehicle should not have even been able to drive in! Did a trans. service, went away 4 a week, then never turned off again? Drove it to 205k when only a weld on the cat. separated & they decided to trade it in for a M F'n f150!! Anyway's my personal mechanic said it was probably just something in trans./ drive-train wasn't fully engaging or maybe even just a sensor trying to die? I still decided to buy a 4x4 personally despite the issue on my work truck. I know that isn't really answer but hopefully it give some info on my experience.

Look I work on this 9 out of 10 times you can go to the parts store get a new $6.00 gas cap and take the battery loose for 5 min reconnect and done . I'll do if for you then give you a $540.00 bill . We always say ya it was this or this or this but it was simple , look you got a toyota , there tough , if you had a ford I would really get you

I had the exact same thing happen to me.....2008 Tundra......removed wheels and found a rear sensor with broken wires. $133.00 from the dealer to replace the sensor and small wiring harness attached. Cheap, easy fix, thankfully.

thanks to all the responses, on my way to hang out with my son and his girlfriend and this happened, pulled over at Home Depot and disconnected battery and cleaned terminals, put back on 5 minutes later and fixed for now. Thank you.

2015/18/06 i had the same problem with my Tundra 2007 i had the light in my dashboard and my Tundra lost a lot of power 30 mph max. I went to the dealership in Canada and i put my Tundra on the computer and said its is the Air Pump who regulate the engine when you start and the solenoid was effect to. They said Toyota know this problem and they extend the warranty for this trouble 10 years and 240,000 km or 100,000 miles. PS sorry for my English i am French Canadian

This is something I have been dealing with for a year and today i finally figured it out. If you look on the inside of your front tires there is a plug that has two wires it looks like it goes to the brakes anyway some how the wires ripped although looking at it i would of never known. But after removing and checking continuity in the line i found my problem. My 4hi vsc abs skid lights all went away from a line that only has two wires. It could be either side i would just check them both

The line looks special and i guess Toyota will charge you 133 dollars for each side even though regular speaker wire seems to do the trick just fine

I had the same problem with 4HI/4LO, ABS, VSC all flashing... Looked under the truck and in front of the rear axle behind the gas tank. The wiring harness was damaged by a rock or some critter.

Thanks guys thus helped me a lot and saved tons of cash. I registered to thank you all and post here since it was so helpful. Had the same issues, vsc, skid, 4hi, abs were lit on mine. Checkedall the cables and found the driver side wheel sensor wire cut. Took about 4 minutes to splice and everything sent away. 4 wheel drive works now and no more lights on the dash.

Photo

I unplug the battier to clean it. Now everytime i stop in a stop sign or lights my truck turns off..Do i need to reset it.

One of your wheel sensors just paid 300 to fix my 2007 tundra

So I just had this happen. Out of nowhere I got the Traction Control, VCS Off, and Check Engine lights. When driving the truck wouldnt downshift to accelerate. I thought the Trans was going out but mine is a 2007 with only 60k miles. I looked under the hood and noticed that my brake fluid was low. Added some fluid and then disconnected the battery to reset the cpu and all is well, power is back. I think there was some type of computer generated limp mode or something. Just thought id share as this thread was very helpful to me. Thanks!

Thank you Thatcher350...New gas cap seems to have done the job!!!

I pulled my positive battery lead on my 2008 Tundra 4x4 for about 20 mins and all the lights went away, Thanks for the suggestions saved myself a few hundred dollars, and i need it after BREXIT!

I have a 2008 Tundra CrewMax and have battled the same problem for a couple of years now. After multiple trips to different shops and absolutely no help from Toyota, I started poking around myself. She had close to 100K on her so I decided to change the plugs and happened upon the long awaited answer!! Three of my plugs had oil all over them, and not just a little. I ran it over to my local "go to" repair shop and they replaced the leaking gaskets and put a new coil and plugs in and the problem has never returned. Ive put over 5K on her since the repair without a problem. Finally!!!!!! :) Check your plugs my friends. A foweled plug will trigger the "bells and whistles" and we all now thats a bad deal with winter coming and the 4X4 will not function with everything flashing ! Let me know if this helps. I now love my truck again:) Disconnecting the battery only delays the warning lights for a short period of time and will not fix the problem. Believe me!!

Basically this is a money maker for Toyota where the average person would take it back to the dealer I worked for Toyota as mechanic in the 70s a light would come on then service would sell them a 15000 maintenance or 30000 mile maintenance or say its a emission maintenance at that time flat rate was about 35 dollars an hour so they would charge 1 hour and I would flip a switch off in about 5 minutes but I was told to stall for a while before turning in the repair order

Any other suggestions? I have a 2008 Tundra with same issues however I wasn't able to locate any cut wires and cleaning the battery terminals and ground did not solve this issues. After I start the truck, the first time I hit the brakes it sounds like the ABS grinds. Then all the lights are back on. Checked brake fluid level and is fine. Thanks for any ideas.

So I should have posted this earlier but the brake fluid thing was just coincidence. The limp mode went away when I reset the system by disconnecting the battery but it soon returned. Ultimate problem was a failing air injection pump system. I bypassed it with a module that I bought on eBay and installed myself. This is a helpful article http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/air-injection- system-bypass-module/

Thanks, please note that I do not have a check engine light on. My case only has the ABS, Traction control and flashing VSC.

Decided to check the speed sensors. Started in the rear of the truck. Drivers side was clean. Pulled the passenger side and it was covered in gear grease. Off to the shop on Tuesday.

Just got mine back from Toyota after doing the warranty work. 2 years of dummy lights and 'slow mode'. Finally over.

I checked wheel sensors, found the rear passenger had a ton of gear grease when I pulled it out. Ended up with a broken seal and replaced the sensor. Lights all cleared.

Jack, sounds like you and I are having the exact same issue. However, I replaced my sensors two weeks ago and now the lights are back. What seal are you referring to?

When I pulled the sensor out it was covered in a black grease. My shop fixed a broken rear axle outer seal. There should not be any grease where the sensors are trying to read. Just curious, what was the cost of your sensor? I paid 243.

I have a 2008 Tundra.....my issue was VSC light, Vehicle skid icon, ABS light, No Rpm, No Eng Temp, and no outside air temp data display. Toyota checked the codes and said it was a "lost comm" code. I cleaned my gas cap and lubed the o-ring and so far it hasn't reoccured.

I have the same problem vsc, abs 4hi 4lo, flashing. truck runs and is able to drive but when i drive it rpm don't work indicator lights flashing and speedometet bounces up and down while accelerating. check engine light does not come on. Hooked up obd2 meter on it to reset but says no link. please help

My 2008 Tundra had the same issues and it was caused by the secondary fuel injection pump not functioning. $500 later and a new pump I'm good to go...

I just experienced this issue with my 2008 Tundra SR5 DC. Check engine, vsc flashing, and traction light. My negative post on my battery was lose. I disconnected both for 20 minutes and then tightened them down. All lights went out.

Wheel speed sensors. Same truck, same problem.

It came back this morning.

I took my truck to O'Reily's to have them read the error. It was P2440 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve stuck open. Toyota has an extended warranty that covers this problem for 10 years or 150000 miles. I'm scheduled for tomorrow.

Same issue, 2008 tundra 4x4 5.7, found rear wheel sensor damaged, replaced and all same dash lights went out.

2007 Tundra V8 Exact same problem. I found a broken wire in the connectors just aft of the fuse box on the drivers side wheel well. repaired wire,reconnected battery and all is well.( I missed it on my first inspection, it was well hidden) thanks to all of you guys for the insights.

If its the VSC light check engine light and the slippery when wet lookin logo that flash in your toyota the part is called the air check valve part cost about 400 bucks its on the top of the engine on the driver side to the rear I just had it replaced on my truck today with labor it cost me 531 included picture of part

Our truck loses all power driving down the road but before you can pull over it comes back on and keeps going. Anyone? He'll?

Our truck loses all power driving down the road but before you can pull over it comes back on and keeps going. Anyone? Help?

My truck has the VSC light on. The traction control light on. The 4lo light on. The check engine light on. Ran the check engine light and says it's a P0101 code which leads to a MAF sensor. Haven't gotten it replaced or cleaned yet. it still runs just fine. I can still drive it to work and 4 hi works to. I took off the battery cables and reset the computer. Traction control starts to work again. Everything went away for about 10 miles. Then it all lit back up like a Christmas tree. I will replace the sensor and see if that solves it. Anyone's input on This?

Our 07 Tundra had the same flashing lights, 160,000 miles. Tried disconnecting battery, new gas cap, lights always came back. It ended up being a bad rear wheel bearing. Once replaced, no more problems.

Hi all, I have a similar problems for about 1 year now. I have a 2008 Tundra 4.7l double cab. The check engine & slippery road lights are on, VSC off & 4Lo flashes, no performance issues of any kind. I noticed that this happens only when the outside temp is above 6o degrees or so and disappear when it is below 60 degrees. What you do you guy think is the problem? I have check the fuse boxes for burn fuse check around and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Im pretty much stuck, so any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance

It's interesting to see all these post. A week ago my check engine light came on, it had the p2441 code which some folks have mentioned, it's the secondary air valve is stuck, today out of nowhere the traction control came on along with the flashing 4 lo, and the truck has no power. I assume it's now got the p2440 code. The air injection system is a known weak point in the Tundra until 2012 they have extended the warranty to 120k/10yrs. 2011 4.6L Double cab 113k.

Quick update. Replaced the MAF snesot and it fixed the problem. No Christmas lights!!! Btw... 4lo still doesn’t work so I crawled up under the truck and noticed that the wires on the neutral safety switch are exposed and qinked up. Maybe the truck can’t go into 4lo because the computer doesn’t know that the truck is in neutral to engage the 4lo. What y’all think? It blinks and beeps at me and the owner manual said it would do that if it’s not in neutral.

I had this issue twice on my 2008 Toyota Tundra with 164000!!! The first time was the fuel injection pump with a corroded wire. The second time was a bad spark plug that made the engine misfire. I had the timing belt done as we found out the previous owner never had done it, along with the thermostat and transmission flush. The truck runs great now!!

I’m having issues with a truck I just purchased! It’s only happens when I use the right turn signal, but the reverse light flashes with the signal and I loose power. I am new to Toyota’s so any help would be great! I will start checking all the wheel sensors and battery connections for loose or broken wires. Anything else I should know about this truck as far as future issues? It’s a 2012 Tacoma with the 2.7L and 137K miles.

Had same problem, was a bad knock sensor harness...

My 2015 Toyota Sequoia out of nowhere the check engine, 4lo and trac off lights all came on. I didn't notice any drag or anything different. It has 46,000 miles, I appreciate all the suggestion and will give them a try. Thank you

I have a 2013 Toyota Tundra with a TRD Supercharger Installed by Hennessy\Tuned. I have 72,000.00 miles on my Truck and all of a sudden my dash lit-up with the 4LO Flashing, TRAC and Engine light Steady on. Toyota looked at it and said it was because I have a Supercharger on the Truck..... THATS and Bunch of BS! I went to Autozone and had the codes read. It was my Mass Airflow Sensor "MAF". $20.00 for a lifetime warranty MAF Sensor. 10-Minutes to change it. 1-Minute to clear codes. BOOM FIXED!

OK Guys, a Buddy had this problem - TRAC, Engine & 4LO light blinking on his 2012 5.7 Tundra. Ran the scan. P0172, P0101 & P0175. He has the TRD AIR Box with Filter. We Cleaned the MAF Sensor with "Mass Airflow Sensor" Cleaner. Replaced the Air Filter and Cleared the CODES. He has driven 100+ Miles and no errors.

2008 w/5.7l 4x4 252k miles. hardly no issues until now. Hell, I own 2 tundras. same problem. Wheel sensors good; connections good. Mud tires slightly oversized in horrible shape. Wondering if that could be throwing off wheel sensors and causing issue. Waiting on new tires from Cooper due in a couple weeks and pushing it. anyone had bad tires cause this/new tires clear it up. when I reset computer everything works until I get up to speed.

A/T oil temp. Indicator light came on after driving 20 miles. 2nd time it’s happens. 1st time I had trans flushed and new fluids. Both time it was triple digits heat out, but no heavy loads at time.

Where are the answers to the A/T temp. Question?

Having the same problem....2010 4.7, 260k.... first time it happened was 2 weeks ago... truck went into crawl mode for about 20 miles after the lights came on, then performance wise it came back to normal, lights were on for 2 more days, then went out... drove normal for a week, then today.... lights back on, went into crawl mode again, then came out of it after about 20 miles.... lights are still on but it’s driving normal again.... I’m baffled but it is going into the shop for other routine maintenance this week... and to have this prob figured out... it should be noted... I bought the truck with 25k on it and it has been maintained by the book since then...

my VSC LIGHT IS FLASHING SEEMS THAT I HAVE LESS HORSE POWER

I’ve got the same issue and they are telling me it’s one of these

Still no answers to A/T temp light and engine shut off problem.

I still have the VSC traction control light on and the left rear brake was grabbing too much and the right rear not at all in my 2007 Toyota Tundra base V6. I also ended up with the P2440 secondary air injection code and the vehicle going in limp mode. I fixed the limp mode problem with that Hewitt-Tech bypass kit which was fairly easy to do on the 4Litre motor. That Hewitt-tech module got rid of limp mode and P2440 code. I pulled an ABS fuse temporarily to get the brakes grabbing equally but that just gave me more dash lights. The brakes are working great with the ABS bypassed via the fuse, but that should only have been to get the veh to a garage. I also have that P0333 knock sensor code thing going on which is bearable as it is not putting my Tundra into that limp mode with that code as it does with some models- but down the road the engine light on out of that P0333 code precludes an emission test to renew plates. I live in Ontario Canada which is poised to cancel the emission testing in April 2019 and focus on heavy trucks/ deisel as the worst culprits. I've given up on fixing all these dash light matters and will look for another vehicle. I'm way past any extended warranty on the secondary air injection problem that I've seen posted on forums.

2010 Tundra 5.7L 4wd 196k with NO vsc light on just the skid light on and 4HI flashing but with no codes and doesn't respond to the 4wd switch. Bought a new transfer case switch and reset ecu and same thing. Any thoughts ?

So this thread discusses a few different issues. If 4HI AND 4LO are flashing, then it's not related to wheels sensors or brake pedal harness. If just 4HI, VSC are flashing, and ABS and slippery when wet are lit, then it's the wheel sensor issues. STOOPID thing is it disables 4WD when you may need it!!! I want to hack the ECM and eliminate this, anyone now how??? But the real reason I write is that I found a way to defeat engaging 4WD when this is happening! Yep that's right. I don't use the Auto LSD or VSC anyway, but I need 4WD. Well, through some trial and mostly error, I found that if I had my dash switch set to 4HI, and turned the truck off, it would engage the front axle when I started the vehicle, BEFORE being disabled by these stooped wheel sensor ECM permissives!!! Just wanted to share this hack with y'all for a ridiculous Toyota program in the Tundra ECMs!

I had to replace the air injector kit to solve the problem..... air injector replacement solved all issues with this.... been three months and still rolling down the road.... 275k current mileage

Ok this issue has been driving me nuts for a while so I'm going to share what iv figured out threw trial and error. So 808tundra you have nailed the issue I'm working on right now. Like superberry said this thread has a few different issues. So I'm going to try to help by putting a complete list of issues related to 808tundra and myself. I have a 2008 tundra 5.7. Ok 808tundra if you look when you lose comm and tach shuts off you should notice your outside temp gauge reads --- because we have just lost comm with the computer. Plus your cruse control and 4 wheel drive will not work during this time as well.if you scan the code you will get a lost comm code like flybryy stated. So that's are main problem were trying to find. Were is the short causing the comunication to flicker creating lost comm. And no this is not going to be fixed with a new gas cap or sensor wire by the wheel or air pump or any of the other things people have posted. You can try if feel free but it's just a waste of money. Luney 79 posted he noticed outside temp playing a roll. Ty luney 79 that helped me greatly I used my ac and heat to constantly reproduce the issue witch I'll explain further. I have been dealing with this problem for over 3 years now and its getting worse especially in the winter when my 4 wheel drive wont ingage and if I turn the know to w wheel high while comm is lost and the comm is restored again the 4 high 4 low lights will flash because the computer doesn't know what's going on so turn 4 wheel off then back on and it should be fine. One day I was so mad because I needed to plow and I couldn't get my 4 wheel drive to work I hit the top of dashboard in anger. Right above the emergency flasher and right corner of the instrument cluster is. I saw the tack gauge bounce. I was like wtf? I slammed it again and boom tack came on, outside temp came on all gauges that go off came on. The lights where still flashing on the dash so I shut the truck off turned it on and they went off. This is 100 percent repeatable as long as the dash is not below 40 degrees f. Every time I hit a bump in the road is goes off and on as well. I believe the problem is in the instrument cluster or a wire going to it.i will be pulling it apart in a few months to try and fix it. If and when I do I promise to post the fix here. If any of you fix yours before me please post it as well to save me some headache. Thank you sincerely Msgnetic4s.

2010 tundra 5.7 rock warrior w/ 4lo flashing, traction control light on, check engine light. Already tried the gas cap and unhooking battery. Will check tire sensors next.

I have 145000 miles on it and haven't had to spend any money on this other than routine maintenance and mods,

I have a 2013 Toyota tundra 4.6 V8 4X4. My engine, ABS, Trac control are all on & my 4 Hi & 4Lo keeps flashing. When I drive like 60 to 70 miles it stalls, took it to Toyota dealer and told us it was battery, bought one, still stalling, bought a new alternator, fuel pump, throttle body, starter, accelerator petal sensor & both wheel sensors for passager and driver. My truck is still stalling can't drive far...please help.

I have a 2008 lifted Tundra 5.7 V8 .....and my previously posted issue has been: VSC light on, Vehicle skid icon, ABS light, No Rpm, No speedometer, No Eng Temp, no center console outside air temp data display, inop cruise control, and inop 4 wheel dive. A few times have gotten the Door ajar light on regardless of doors being slammed closed. Whenever Toyota has checked the codes, we have gotten 3 different scan codes: a "Lost Comm", a UA0100 "No Comm" , and an "ECU FAULT" code. I have a lifted truck, so they first recommended replacing the Speedometer Calibration Computer. We then replaced the ECU. Next we replaced the entire Speedometer cluster, and finally we tried replacing the VSS (Vehicle Steering Angle Sensor). All 4 repairs HAVE FAILED TO CORRECT my problem. It is still intermittent. Happens 2-4 times per month. I just pull over, shut the ignition off, wait about 2-5 minutes, and when I crank up again, all is ok and reset. My problem has happened at anytime. It's been hot, cold and rainy, sunny, day and night. I am at a complete loss now...and have just resigned myself to live with it, as I have plunked down about 3 grand to fix this problem and it still comes back. Just a follow up FYI to those with a similar issue.

GuruLW2Q8 "I have a 2008 lifted Tundra 5.7 V8 .....and my previously posted issue has been: VSC light on, Vehicle skid icon, ABS light, No Rpm, No speedometer, No Eng Temp, no center console outside air temp data display, inop cruise control, and inop 4 wheel dive. A few times have gotten the Door ajar light on regardless of doors being slammed closed. Whenever Toyota has checked the codes, we have gotten 3 different scan codes: a "Lost Comm", a UA0100 "No Comm" , and an "ECU FAULT" code. I have a lifted truck, so they first recommended replacing the Speedometer Calibration Computer. We then replaced the ECU. Next we replaced the entire Speedometer cluster, and finally we tried replacing the VSS (Vehicle Steering Angle Sensor). " I have an 08 with the 4.7 and had the exact symptoms as you. All winter I couldn't plow as could not put vehicle in 4WD. My code reader just read error. Finally when roads were dry got it to the dealer and they charged me two hours of labor to diagnose the shorted CAN bus as coming from the steering wheel position sensor, which they offered to replace for $450 but did not have on in stock. I bout one from TLS auto recyclers (great site where you can make an offer on a part) for $40 and it takes about 20 minutes to get the steering wheel off and replace this part. I was doubtful to say the least this would fix my problem but popped it in and immediatley everything worked as normal. This was a couple of years ago. Fast forward to now and I just got my truck back from the same dealer for a frame replacement. When I picked it up it had check engine light they told me was P2442 air injection valve problem. Toyota won't cover it because I am beyond 10 years by about 3 months. The dealer said it has nothing to do with the frame replace but I am doubtful and it did not have light when I dropped it off. Yesterday we got the 4LO flash, VSC Off flash, and slippery indicator on the highway during 90+ F weather, truck loses power on uphill. Still only has code P2442 so I am going right now with worsening air injection system. Anyway, you may check to make sure the steering wheel position sensor (some call it the clock spring) was not the part replaced. But it seems that any part or wiring failure that shorts the CAN bus either to ground or to each other will cause the symptoms you are getting. Toyota has a procedure to troubleshoot this where they go module by module disconnecting until they can read a code.

GuruLW2Q8 and others, sorry for my sloppy post- I was so excited seeing someone that had the exact same problem that I solved on my truck I rushed to get the post out. It is hard to tell where GURULW2Q8 ends and mine begins so here you go: I have an 08 with the 4.7 and had the exact symptoms as you. All winter I couldn't plow as could not put vehicle in 4WD. My code reader just read error. Finally when roads were dry got it to the dealer and they charged me two hours of labor to diagnose the shorted CAN bus as coming from the steering wheel position sensor, which they offered to replace for $450 but did not have on in stock. I bought one from TLS auto recyclers (great site where you can make an offer on a part) for $40 and it takes about 20 minutes to get the steering wheel off and replace this part. I was doubtful to say the least this would fix my problem but popped it in and immediatley everything worked as normal. This was a couple of years ago. The traction system needs the steering wheel position and the vehicle yaw sensor to determine whether to use the ABS to try to straighten the vehicle out. It seems like a bad design to shutt off everything if the comm bus has a short. Fast forward to now and I just got my truck back from the same dealer for a frame replacement. When I picked it up it had check engine light they told me was P2442 air injection valve problem. Toyota won't cover it because I am beyond 10 years by about 3 months. The dealer said it has nothing to do with the frame replace but I am doubtful and it did not have light when I dropped it off. Yesterday we got the 4LO flash, VSC Off flash, and slippery indicator on the highway during 90+ F weather, truck loses power on uphill. Still only has code P2442 so I am going right now with worsening air injection system. Anyway, you may check to make sure the steering wheel position sensor (some call it the clock spring) was not the part replaced. But it seems that any part or wiring failure that shorts the CAN bus either to ground or to each other will cause the symptoms you are getting. Toyota has a procedure to troubleshoot this where they go module by module disconnecting until they can read a code. Hope this helps someone! Rick

Wow I just read this entire thread ! And I still don't know where to start. Lol same prob 4lo flashing ,vsc flashing, slippery when wet flashing, check engine light on, and tire light on. I have no power loss but my 4x4 doesn't work neither in hi or lo they just flash when i turn them on. Haven't tried the trick/hack someone mentioned above with turning off the truck with 4hi still engaged then turning back on. Ill try searching for broken wires and have the codes ran at autozone to see what up. Hoping for the mass air sensor issue. But still gonna drive if I cant figure it out because I like Christmas lights haha!

2008 4.7L 4x4

Had the same problem. Took it to Toyota. It was a bad wire between rear wheel sensor for skidding and the computer.

Here were my symptoms and the end solution for my 2008 Tundra which I've owned since new... SYMPTOMS: 1. 4Hi/Lo, VSC and ABS lights all lit/flashing 2. ABS shuddering at slow speeds after ECU reset 3. Wet weather would consistently make issue resurface. Had this going on for 1 month 4. Engaging 2wd or 4wd would work but only if vehicle turned off/on again with desired wheel drive setting in place before re-ignition 5. Techstream software I have displayed error codes: C0215, C1241, C1333 REPAIRS (that didn't resolve the issue): 1. Resetting ECU by leaving battery unplugged for 20+ minutes 2. Replacing rear ABS wiring harness (TSB on this) 3. Replacing left rear wheel/speed sensor 4. Cleaning ABS connections at wheel sensors 5. Checking rear sensors as my bearings were replaced 2 years prior. Issue would've surfaced much quicker if that was the case. SOLUTION 1. Toyota tech used multimeter from the brake actuator at the front all the way to the back of the vehicle. Without wasting time and labour $ to find the exact location where the worn wire was, he replaced the entire wire from the engine block to the rear of the vehicle which I believe attaches to the rear axle wiring harness. The last resort would've been replacing the ECU which i didn't want considering the price (~$3k). Bottom line here is that my symptoms always indicated an electrical issue and nothing more ie. wet weather causing it to act up, turning vehicle on and off, Techstream open circuit error. My advice is don't get misled by red herrings, but instead use the Techstream codes and go from there. While they may not tell you the exact issue, they point you in the right direction. Good luck everyone.

Have a 2008 Toyota Tundra 4.7 L, had the same problem all I did was disconnect the battery as I saw suggested in one of these threads waited a few minutes connected it back up as good as new

I have a 2010 tundra...abs light on and traction control light on...no other lights...just those two lights...

I finally figured out my traction and abs light with 4hi flashing...after tons of research pointing to speed sensors and or harnesses...I replaced all...and still had the same problem...so i went and got a diagnostic and it said front right and left sensor...after I replaced them...and my mechanic told me to change out wheel bearing hub assembly...so i did both and finally...no lights...i hope this helps someone.

I have an 08 Tundra and I hit a big puddle last winter and later that day a whole bunch of lights came up on my dash. The truck still drove fine but after a while only the vsc off light was flashing and the traction control light stayed on. It has been that way ever since....the lights go off after the truck has been off for a while and then come back on once I've been driving for about 15 minutes. It won't go into 4 wheel drive either....today we needed it and it wouldn't go in and then we turn the truck off and left it off for a couple hours, then when we restarted it it was in 4 wheel drive. Now it won't go back to 2 wheel drive! What the frick?

i just paid $75 to Toyota dealer to find out that 4lo, VCSoff, traction control, blinking, plus check engine lights mean secondary air injection malfunction. Price: $2836.22. This is a 2007 Tundra with 136K miles. Other options would be very welcome.

i have a 2008 with the v6. i dont remember what caused it....but all my dash lights lit up and speedometer and RPM gauge were acting wacky.....but it still ran fine. i spent an afternoon in oreillys parking lot cleaning the throttle body, replacing battery and stuff like that. im sure i had error codes.....but all was wacky. i decided to take up smoking and drove to walgreens to get some camel filter-less smokes....same ones that killed gramps and my dad....so why not. in my haste i pulled up to a parking concrete bunker thing - and noted i smacked it pretty well with the drivers front wheel......and it repaired everything....and im serious.

Have the 08 tundra and traction control lights on, 4 lo flashing and dead temp gauge, but also dining in the engine compartment is getting hot. Going to check the battery since it did die a week ago and I had to jump it. Heck I have two weeks till my mechanic can get to it I might as well take a look at a couple things.

I registered just to say thank you to everybody in this thread, so I could avoid expensive visit to shop or dealership! My flashing lights were: check engine, 4lo, vcs, slippery road. The simplest way is to buy for $3 new battery contact for minus contact. In my case, I cleaned it very well from inside, merely soda (or coke) didn't work for cleaning unlike guys from youtube. I used my drill with the special bit of abrasive to make the contact look like new shining copper from inside. Even though the truck starts perfectly, the contact still might need cleaning.

I don't know if this helps anyone, but I got the 4Lo, VCS, Slippery and Check Engine light when my radiator fluid was low. After I filled the overflow back up, then I used the following method to reset dash light: 2007-2017 Models Tundra Maintenance Light Reset 1. Turn the ignition to the “On” position, but do not start the engine. If you have a push- button model, do not press the brake pedal and press “Start.” 2. Switch the display to “Trip A“ by pressing the display change button or “Trip” button. 3. Turn the vehicle all the way off. 4. Press and hold the “Trip” button. 5. Continue to hold the “Trip” button, and without starting the engine, switch the ignition to “On.” 6. When the trip meter is set to all zeros, release the “Trip” button. Lights have not returned.

I had the same issues on my tundra. Was the PCV valve and that set

Had the same issue on my 2007 tundra. As of may 2021 63k miles The negative battery connector had a small crack in it and when trying to tighten more it gave out. New connector and the problem went away for 3 days. In the process of trouble shooting... will update when fixed...

Instal a new Toyota Maf sensor to start . The could be your cats . Or the air intact pumps. Also vacuum lesk. I dealt with this issue for 2 years . Finally got the dealer to go over it . Ooh . Also my fuel injection system was really dirty . After 5000. 00 bucks she purr like a kitten . Thought it was my tranny at first . Tranny is good . Hope this helps .