I have a 07 Dodge Ram 1500. I drive it and the the truck starts shaking. Press the brake and it starts pumping and the whole truck shakes. I can't even get to 70. I pull over turn the truck off

Press the brake and it starts pumping? That's motor mounts? I suppose very loose parts supporting powertrain could affect driveshaft angles if the engine angle was out of spec far enough. But i was thinking of distorted wheel bolt circle and or added spacers in use could make brake feedback in pedal. if that is what sarah means.

Rotors and drums of course, but if it has been to more than one shop, they may need to road test and point it out to the service manager. We used to give a half hour to any customer to get it to act up for verification. Then we would inspect for safety and find these oddities, or send them out to gather more symptoms or facts about how to make it act up.

I had the rotors and drums replaced less than a year ago. The mechanics have test drove it and as usual it acts right. It was once a week

Now it's every day.

There is a method to searching out a brake system's possible feedback. It would show the technician what you go thru. It is easier for you to show the technician what you are going thru

If they had it acting up? That gets their attention, driveshaft angles can be measured anytime if the have a drive-on lift. Above ground alignment machines have them, and can be set level. If your engine and trans were low or askew, it can affect your driveshaft operation. The speed changes of its sections in the driveline, or powertrain driven parts one and all, can be affected.

An ABS issue can exist with overacting abs pump motor. A sensor that has build up on it can make the system activate, sometimes there is no code. These things I discuss with you are best checked by your dealer. I noticed you chose "motormounts" as an answer. Have you actually found breakage, damage, or some problem??? I would get the frame and related parts inspected by the dealer, let them feel it when it is happenning the way it does it, each day, try to be there when the circumstances will be right... to grab somebody for a quickie. After they verify, they would know which direction to go with testing.

Listen for any electric or cyclic or rythmic sound. A sound you may get that occurs when the vehicle acts up. Telling these noted details makes them think about what to do to it during the test to make things happen your way. That's in case you arent driving or riding with.

The symptoms you describe may require a certain speed or pedal application force in a certain way, the system is not looking for it but it gets affected by a "noisy reading" or a mV signal that is not recognizable To what it has to compare to. In my theory, which is just that. I have not verified your concern either.

I didn't mean to put motor mounts as best answer!

alright, kinda thought that may be the situation. after you show someone in a dealer service, and get it documented, you can be sure they are working on what you are trying to fix. That can be the most difficult thing. Then, their time can get applied where you need it. tell us what happens, we will answer.

Thank you very much! Will let u know what happens.

Well just so you no they figured out what was wrong! The 5th mechanic is fixing it. The shocks where out! Pressing the brake just magnified it! Thank you for ur help hon.

Thanks for the update. Hope they help you. Shocks dampen. Failed shocks may leak or lose pressure allowing jounce and rebound to be magnified. If that describes the concern you had, it could, perhaps affect it. It is an unusual diagnosis for brake pedal pumping and truck shaking so bad you pull over and shut it off, though. I was expecting loose parts, crossmember, frame attatchments. Loose steering parts links or ball ends or parts of that type. That is just from my ideas about your description, me not having driven it. If it starts shimmeying after bumps or dips and increases with speed, then you must drop below the speed where it starts to calm it, that is what I personally would be looking for.

A variation in your brake rotor(s) that surges in the pedal can be have increased feel if loose parts, rivets, bolts, or shackles exist. If this vehicle has a lift kit added to it, that can increase the leverage of the parts acting upon the parts that were designed to operate at lower height and calmer angles. It also means geometry must be corrected in addition to the parts and resulting angle changes from the basic lift. Every opposite reaction feeds back to the driver through the parts and the feel you notice is multiplied and or magnified.

ASk for the inspection of every bolt, rivet, and steering or suspension part, frame bracket, and crossmember attachment. The trucks I personally saw in the past with shake and shimmey concerns were found to have varying degrees of loose , cracked, worn, or modified angles as causes. Also, aftermarket wheels were a surprise having wheel bolt circle distortion. The factory engineer had to find it after we replaced drums and rotors on trucks, then had the problems return. Let those lessons we learned be your clues to future help. Technicians cannot always find things like that until they see one get fixed. Then they say huh?, no way. cant be. But in the aftermath, it adds a few things to their thought process for diagnosis, and adds like 10 minutes to their inspection time. I learned to look for rusty dust and attempt to tighten things I trusted to be perfectly sound. I started to find the problemsw before they became a customer's problem. Increased my reputation for being thorough and accurate.

excuse me, (loose, cracked, worn, PARTS. or modified angles as causes) Sometimes mechanics gloss over the problem and another tech finds it......ahem.

He did go over it thoroughly. I made him check everything. I just picked it up and drove it. So for it seems a whole lot better. I'm driving it to work tomorrow so I will no for sure this was fixed. I will let u no. Thank u very much. I will do what u said

Great news. if you experience any degree of unusual feel, now, note where it shakes or wiggles, the speed, or braking effort to help find it. Did yours have a lift or large tires and wheels? or did it still have mopar parts all throughout?

No lift or big tires. It's the original parts.

Have the mechanics you know and trust install a anti shackling shock on the steering linkage then replace any found loose parts, ( tie rods, steering box , idler arm , upper ball joints or lower ball joints , pitman arm then have a four wheel alignment check. This will insure a positive centerline and stabilize vehicle. Shackling violently is always due to loose parts and improper alignments, also check for possible bent driveshaft due to being lifted on old post lift type lifts. Hope this info gets your vehicle back on center

Thank u. Will do that.

what's an anti shackling shock? shackles allow leaf springs to move as they compress and release. trucks with leafs have the straight axle. If that truck came with a steering damper, would that define your gender? You could use the term in the future and help this person define the problem for the fifth, sixth, or any future tech who tries to get it to act up. Replacing parts that have not failed any tests is not and has never been recommended by any stretch of the imagination. Problems that exist but remain unverified is no excuse for selling parts based on unfounded guesses from fantasyland.

we cannot even be sure the symptoms have been validated. we can suggest thought about truck axle shake, shimmey, and vibration, or pulsation based on recalls, bulletins or failures we can site. Confusion is the preferred weapon of the enemy.

Thank u Dannyl

Hey Danny , excuse me for trying to explain to some how to fix their vehicle for free . And for your info I didn't say to replace a the parts in the front end just the ones that were worn out! Dampener is the correct name so please excuse Me!!!!!!!!!!!! Man and for your gender crack I'm spending my time trying to help this person find out and fix their vehicle. Have a great nite , oh no! I misspelled Night

You must have missed where she just said the fifth tech went over all the parts carefully. Not knocking input, she thinks it is going to be fixed following her road test of her regular route. I hope she doesn't have to throw parts at it without diagnosis. They were checking based on what they could verify to avoid confusion.

Put downs when I'm spending my time trying to help someone is so wrong! Front end shaking is very common on high mileage vehicles, so your apology is noted. Like helping people for free, I own my own garage where I spend 5 days a week, for almost 40 years. I just try to go to fantasy land only one or two days a year. It's called a vacation. Peace

Well it's not fixed!

The tech who replaced the shocks, trying to dampen the problem, time to ask his service manager to verify the problem exists and show the SM how to make it act up. The problem is exactly the same? worse? or better? write down the speed and type of road, note whether you hit bumps, go thru a dip, or what is it about the circumstances that starts the shaking. ....Is it before or after it is all warmed up? has there been plenty of usage of the brakes? like a few stops? or many stops?

Tooloose? I find it counterproductive naming parts what you like and suggesting they be added or replaced. We were still trying to get suggestions about the symptom. Once verified, she could define the problem for them. A year ago, she had drums and rotors replaced for the problem. there is two types of trouble, she says the brakes pump and the truck shakes............also the truck shakes and she cannot get to 70....does that indicate something is holding the truck from increasing speed to you also? A braking system issue by itself? calipers mechanically hanging on? Or, hydraulically applied? but slightly. That is where we need to be defining the symptom or able to eliminate systems one by one as being the cause of the original concern. And does it still have that same concern after repair? These shocks and dampers do not cause the issues she describes and seldom can they correct a shake. Another good question is, have the tires been switched? pressure raised and lowered 10 psi and road tested after for each ? We used to get another truck that did not have a problem and borrow its tires. to eliminate those as a cause.

once you know what system, you can concentrate testing on that system, so eliminate tires and wheels. measure brakes runout and check for drag, please.

I got on hwy and hit 75 mph. The steering wheel and tires started to shake. Hit the brakes and the whole truck shook as usual. I called the mechanic foreman and told him the problem was not fixed. My rims r black from brake powder. He said it couldn't be the abs because the light is not on in the dash. He checked for loose parts. I watched him. He is rather miffed it's still doing it. I told him I would drop it off tonight and tomorrow he needs to get on the hwy and hit 75 mph and he will no what I'm talking about. I find it rather odd that I have to turn the ignition off and restart my truck for it to run right. But yet nothing comes up on computer. I'm at a loss and like I said earlier. So far 5 mechanics can't figure it out. The hwy is smooth my tires have no broken bands and tie rods r good.

I am starting to consider a rotor or hub issue if tire work had no effect. But again with more questions, did the brake parts you had replaced come from Mopar? and are the hubs and rotors all in one? or hubless? A road test question...can the braking shake be produced with careful application of the parking brake? being ready to release as you slowly apply?

is your Dodge ram 1500 2wd or 4wd? . Magnum v8 and auto trans? all recalls and service bulletins that pertained were performed? the vehicle's mileage is ? I have the current description as truck shakes at __ speed and brake pulses..(whole truck shaking). Driver cannot achieve 70 mph and chooses to pull over due to the circumstances. Previous work included replacing drums and rotors. whose parts ? please write these questions down and reread the thread answering what we left unaddressed. Take your time and gather what info you can. reread your repair order copies for any notes about suggested repair recommended. Make a "patient's chart" for it, so you can keep providing the tech all the info anytime it is being looked at. lets see what was left unanswered.

K, new info, now we define the shake starting at 75, it is in the steering wheel. applying the brakes produces a shake of the front and rear, or "the whole truck" so i need you to carefully apply the parking brake while holding the release just enough to produce brake application at speed. Does the truck shake? A brake/ hub/ wheel/ tire issue, thus far with steering feedback. I think

The brake shake is the truck body? the pedal feeds back against your foot? or the seat you sit in shakes?

please review and answer every question so far, write information on a sheet to provide to the tech. please

You said, (turning it off and on) restarting the truck makes it "run right" does that mean the engine runs badly? You said you pull to the side and shut it off, then restart it, to get it to run right... This suggests multiple misfire or engine shake.............see why shocks were a surprising diagnosis? There may be 3 issues or 4. (Ask it what its name is...hahaha)

It's a two wheel drive the brake pops not the seat. The front wheels vibrate. The motor is on good condition. Truck has 103000 miles on it. I travel s lot for construction. That's y I wonder if it's electrical. I have to restart motor and she drives great again

does that mean the engine misfires? these particles of info are from different subjects. I have at least 4 areas for your tech to look into. We need the rest of the info. After prechecks,You need to borrow wheels and tires from a truck that does not do it. (Dealer stock unit perhaps). used is ok, sales managers love a favor

Next problem would be paying for the diagnosis time. Get all these answers I have asked you for throughout this thread listed. That would save 2-3 hours ( $360 ) Averting a list of guess parts is in the thousands of $, by now. A rig with 100K on it may not be expected to act new, but should not "run bad" whatever. Take the SM and show the problems to him one by one. Do not drop the car off and expect anything. He probably runs around with an extinguisher as it is.

You think electrical because, what, you drive it off road at jobsites, and it takes a pounding, some connection must be loose fitting. or failing part is able to reset by being shut off or what ? You can add that observation to your info sheet for the tech. just let them know you did this to save time and improve communication. In case you have to leave it there while they budget time for attempts to experience the concern. You can have them read our back and forth in case it makes them ask different questions. That's all I am trying to do is make it act up for the tech and make you ready with language they might understand. Not giving you hokey names for bandages or salves. But why are those tires still on the front? what is their pressure, or radial and lateral runout.? checking for a blip in the wheel or a distorted bolt circle design, raising and lowering pressure between road tests, these are all customary service manual techniques. They save wasting money on guesses. Substitution of parts from another has always proved fastest proof that I have had to do. Engineering bulletins have been written for step by step process of elimination of parts that may look ok but are wangly, for lack of a better term. Castings that arent from foundries in the u.s. can be temperature affected for shape. or drilled off center or have the studs off center. so I keep asking, were those brakes from mopar? measuring and checking their characteristics hot is different. sometimes a porous casting can get wiggly at 75 mph because it has .030" variation when you bolt down the lugs. then heat it up.

I dropped my truck off and told them what u said. I don't no if the brakes r from mopar. The brakes they out on r supposed to last a very long time and not make noice if that helps any. So the foreman of the shop has the info u have given me. I should no tomorrow. Hopefully!!! Ha. I'm at my wits end!

You can hope they agree to exceed the speed limit and verify what happens when your description is attempted. Some shops would demand you drive and demonstrate so they see exactly what you mean with your description. Those shops can command or demand over $100 an hour and get it for the time. Others would recommend a few thousand dollars worth of parts and labor and suggest trading trucks after 100K miles. Still others would bolt on known good wheels, see what they get, then inspect for cracked rotors or ones with width variation...since it "pumps" or "pops" the pulsation in the pedal. If that was accompanied by hearing the abs pump motor, then a electronically noisy sensor can be in play, who knows, getting these questions answered has been here and there. I see you just dropped it off, so, happy hopin. see what they do. Maybe even caster shimmey.... But it has to act up. or they are just guessin again.

It was the break booster pump.

Brake.... Lol

Sorry, again, the diag dies not match the described symptom. Much like shocks for tires that shake the steering wheel. This diagnosis does not control the issue at 75 mph +. steering wheel shaking, runs "bad", tires vibrate. A hydraboost brake assist is SUPPOSED to feel like a pulsation or pop back against your foot. They are so very expensive, and time consuming to install, I have no understanding of what you have been saying all along, evidently, because these answers you get tell me you have not demonstrated to them what you are describing for these 3 or 4 issues. Sounds like guesses are being made...expensive guesses....I would ask them to put my old parts back on if I was unsatisfied. since those wont fix what you had for symptoms. Spend a little time demonstrating the symptoms and point them out has been my request as well as answer the questions throughout this thread that would tell what equipment the vehicle has, and whose parts were used. I do not have the complete and correct info to respond to.

If "brake booster pump" referrs to a vacuum assist, that would mean the vacuum pump had failed. If it referrs to a poer steering pump, you would have steering issues at other speeds and circumstances, one could expect. A bent pulley is yet another idea. It is no surprise that you have your fifth tech or sixth. trying to find these issues. Tooloose was not even close either, and I bet he would have different reply if he read all this. Now add up all the would be repair orders. With this sort of haphazard info, and the money you would need, a new truck would be your best investing in comparison. Now you are going to come back in a day or so saying the tires shake, right?

That is, when you push it up over the speed limit on the hiway? But you still wont have the list of basic equipment in use on the truck, engine size or type, even. So far I have, 07 dodge 1500 2wd,("runs bad" restart and "runs right"), Starts to shake at 70, steering wheel shakes, not the seat, but the "whole truck shakes". and brakes shake or pulsate, and the pedal pumps, and the pedal pops. See why you must take the service manager and demonstrate ??? Any tech or service advisor would recommend that as step one.

It was the brake booster. It was out.

Vacuum suspended brake booster? if it had a vacuum leak? That can lean out the idle mixture. Still not even touching the other systems with symptoms, what can be said? You spend your own money where you like. Did the symptoms change at all? maybe it "runs right" now without shutting it off and restarting? erroneous. Hope it improves.

I can't believe no one else has even mentioned this yet, but if the problem is not fixed have your tire balance checked. I bought an older Powerstroke that had a similar problem as what you are describing and a simple balance of the tires cured it right away. Wheels throw weights every once in a while.

Tire balance controls vibrations at 50 to 55. Tires out of round or with excessive runout or casing abnormalities produce the vibrations at speeds above and below that. Hubs and rotors or wheel to hub relationships or the bolting down process produces runout there. and on and on......... But correct pressure and balance was taken into account with recommendation of trading tires and wheels. Since the asker has to break the law to produce the issues, of which the description is many. That saves time and money. Kinda strange that she says all those issues were fixed by a booster, never answered to what equipment was on the truck, and did not come back with any test results at all, Six machanics and at least 1 SM. service manager/sado masochist.

They also threw shocks at the problem but had no report of even 1 failed shock, bushing or mounting. If her vibration,( "shaking" was the description) existed at 35 also you can say tires. since you have to verify the problem before continuing, that was recommended. every report was dropping off and hoping. She reported the SM found an issue that can be the cause of lean, misfire, and engine shake. The booster. she has not discussed brake shake or wheel shake since. We cannot know what work was performed with or without approval to her knowledge or not. It would be nice to hear it isa still all good with that one and its reported issues. and very little bandaids were tried to cover a scary issue at 75 mph. It made her pull over, then shut it off. this is where the endless loop begins, so I am signing off....to play by ear. Thanks for the help.

She picked motor mounts at the very beginning saying that was helpful, then said she did not mean that. Then she said the engine "runs bad", She also gave an idea that it was runability related because shutting off and starting up made it come and go. It was once a week. it was becomming more frequent, then it was every day. she could not get to 70. The symptoms were reported differently from time to time. The shocks of course, did not fix anything and there was no failed part. The booster, being, "out" was given the blame last. The complaints about brake problems and tire problems have not yet been reported since. At this time... it seems it can be attributed to the engine shaking. That shaking is the root cause it seems. The booster being "out" must mean diaphragm ruptured. The leak must increase under load and with RPM, this must affect the runability systems of engine management, the misfiring from a lean condition must be damaging the pistons. We may never know, but others reading this can simply install a vacuum gauge and drive to monitor. That idea can shorten the diagnostic time considerably. That will be $3000 please...hahaha. No, I hope discussing this and thinking before throwing parts at it has helped you. We have your best interests at heart and hope the info with experience helps others believe in an American company that employs our fellow citizens at least somewhat. That's what I think. Please pick what you found helpful and delete the motor mounts as the root cause unless you replaced those. Then this thread is not misleading to future readers.

It was the booster. It was building to much pressure causing the calibers to lock up. When I pulled over and turned engine off the pressure released. I found the answer from a guy who worked for cystler for 30 yrs. it is doing great now!

I don't no how to delete the motor mount thing or I would. U was a great help. Thank u very much and u saved me a lot of money

Great, that means your post you want to choose is right after tooloose and I traded ideas, and I suggested his were counterproductive, but then asked him if he thought the truck was held and unable to achieve 70 mph by the brake issue............................................................................................. .....Your condition is, then, pushrod too long, after engine warm, applies brake, making brakes heat up, and shake... engine shakes and misfires.......................Some way chrysler found to muck it up, nobody else makes a booster that screws up like that. all the MFR's use Bendix or Moraine many have consolidated becoming "allied" they use the bendix design I believe, maybe chrysler has a reason they want to be different. You use the little gear and arrow in the upper right of the posting to select delete from the PC that posted it I bet, if I select them it does not let me correct the content from here. Thanks for the reply with the info they told you. I hope your thread helps people keep their rigs, diagnose, repair, and get their money's worth.

We had like 30 to 33 posts before we started to feel around the area. You could select something in there as help. and demonstrating the issues and concerns etc as your action to take. I think...............Because then they could understand what they were trying to find the cause of......................Then they could treat the cause instead of the symptom. with bandages... Thanks again.

You can take me for a test drive sometime and show me what they are building at your jobsite, hahaha. hope you like your truck better now.

The helpful symptom I left out was, feeds back against the driver's foot on "step thru" (in case a chrysler engineer reads this). Then they can write a diagnostic bulletin as a time saver for their company if they want it fixed.

I like I dannyl. Haha. I'll take u on a tour !!

I like I too .....I mean, why wouldn't I...haha. No I think I detect a innocent typo. Hopin your rig is running right.

It's doing great!!

That's great ! Makes my day to hear that. But now that means I have to fix the mercedes.

When u click on those little jobbies in the upper right of a posting do they say report, undo, or delete? You could delete that first one and choose something between the thirtieth and thirty third post when we talked about the brake being held by calipers or another part wrongfully applied? That was why you could have had trouble getting up over 70 and lead to the correct test in the minds of the tech and service manager.

They don't say anything. And u was right. It was causing my truck to not go over. It's a shut off something or other. I think u no what I'm talking about.

Well it is possible for you to click on the helpful and best answer material to help someone with the symptoms, you can get that indicated. I rest the cursor over the icons and they do nothing, if i click, then they define themselves. used to be delete. I would try that for the first balloon or posting. Oh, you mean why it wouldnt go after 70? that could be the servo in the booster pushrod apply side, or the diaphragm side stuck slightly applied, but if you cannot internally repair something by design? that was caused by that design. I would rerun the tests to submit the finding with MGMT witness. see what correction part could already be in the works...if it is a Ford.

It's a dodge!! Lol. I'll try to fix it tomorrow

That's what i mean, they may not want to do anything more with the design, just keep bolting the current parts on till they run out. ................. But, pick the area of the thread that was helpful and made the symptom defined for them to verify, I always noted throughout the thread, that steps 1-3 ( verify, define, isolate) was why you had seen 5-to-6 techs and had only resistance band exercises as therapy for a for a sucking chest wound