2008 Chevy Cobalt powertrain electrical weirdness

Asked by Tulljunkie Mar 20, 2019 at 10:44 PM about the 2008 Chevrolet Cobalt LS Coupe FWD

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Mid summer, the coolant sensor started to fail to register, but would come
right back when the ECM was reset, every time. Winter came, I let it go for
Spring.
The head, throttle body, EGR, injectors, coils, timing set were all brand-new,
we just did a total rebuild on it last April due to burned-out valves (they were
causing a perpetual misfire condition, it was the only way to eliminate it).

Car ran great, beautifully, all summer, all Fall, all winter, until last week.

Suddenly, it just died. If it didn't have a chain, had a timing belt instead, I'd
have sworn the belt snapped, it was that sudden. Engine code - crankshaft
sensor out of range.

Odd, to me, really, but since we hadn't changed that sensor during the
rebuild I just went and got another one.

BUT

I tried to get it to fire a few times in the meantime. And it would start, but only
if I held the gas to the floor, and the smoke was unreal from the exhaust.

I sat back, engine off, ignition on, literally scratching my head over it. I know,
it said bad crk sensor, but still, something didn't seem right.

Then I noticed a sound under the hood. It sounded like a just about dead
battery trying to engage the starter solenoid, but... The key was just on, not
being cranked, and the battery had nearly full charge.

I got out to see what was going on, pulled off the engine cover, pulled off the
air cleaner housing thing, and lo and behold, the throttle body was flopping
open and closed, and the injectors were firing wildly. And then the secondary
air pump engaged. The whole system started going nuts.

I replaced the crk sensor, replaced the starter relay, and it made no
difference.

Well, I shouldn't say it made no difference at all, since that was when I
noticed I was getting inconsistent codes. crk sensor, cam sensor, MAP, MAF,
ECM not found, multiple misfire, on and on and on, and constantly changing.

So I started opening the covers on the wire harness, looking for shorts.

5v everywhere I looked, where appropriate, 12v also where appropriate, so I
had to go there.

Nothing found in the wiring.

I talked to a few dozen mechanics in my area, and they all agreed - dead
PCM. They said its voltage regulator may be fine, but it sounded like the
programming was screwed.

Okay, so I had a computer custom programmed to my VIN and replaced it.

And it is still doing it.

So I'm at a loss. This thing pumped 1/8 tank of gas into the manifold just
sitting there with the engine off and ignition on. I had to remove it and clean it
out.

I replaced the throttle body, since the TPS and IAC are built into it. No
difference.

It seems to me... Something is shorting the 5v references somewhere, and
it's somewhere that affects both busses (since the crk and cam sensors are
on different reference voltage wires), but wow I'll be damned if I can figure
out where.

Any thoughts?

2 Answers

18,685

My new favorite answer. Find a shop that specializes in auto electrical repairs and have them go through it. They have the equipment and expertise to sort this sort of thing out. In the mean time I'd disconnect the battery before it sets itself on fire.

10

As a new cobalt owner I dont jave much experience, but I'm pretty sure there's a short or loose connection somewhere. Just to share my story, mine had the TCM issue where it would intermittently shift badly. Its an automatic transmission fyi. It would basically either jump gears or stay in high gear coming off the highway. While it was doing that the rpm needle was fluctuating wildly! It also interfered with the shift solenoid, and one time that was clicking audibly when I wasnt moving anything. Ultimately I took a guess at what was going on: this happened the ONLY two times I turned the heat on, so I pulled out the HVAC relay. Hasn't been a problem since. So at some point I'm going to track down that issue by pulling individual fuses for the HVAC system and see if it reoccurs on a particular line, then find the harness and look for burns, breaks, or bad connectors. If nothing looks visibly wrong, the jiggle test might show something. I'm by no means a trained professional, but I've done a lot with electronic systems and feel fairly confident and know how to stay safe. If there's a professional in your area that does electrical diagnostics they are likely to fix it much easier having experienced lots of other weird problems. Good luck!

1 people found this helpful.

Your Answer:

CarGurus Experts

  • #1
    munron
    Reputation
    8,450
  • #2
    John Carson
    Reputation
    2,290
  • #3
    MoGo
    Reputation
    1,990
View All

Find great deals from top-rated dealers

Search

Related Models For Sale

Used Honda Civic
168 Great Deals out of 3,678 listings starting at $1,995
Used Chevrolet Corvette
28 Great Deals out of 1,045 listings starting at $15,871
Used Chevrolet Impala
10 Great Deals out of 108 listings starting at $4,632
Used Chevrolet Silverado 1500
197 Great Deals out of 5,917 listings starting at $2,975
Used Ford Mustang
64 Great Deals out of 1,266 listings starting at $4,995
Used Chevrolet Colorado
24 Great Deals out of 1,482 listings starting at $6,800
Used Chevrolet Malibu
52 Great Deals out of 1,148 listings starting at $1,295
Used Honda Accord
40 Great Deals out of 903 listings starting at $1,599
Used Chevrolet Spark
21 Great Deals out of 429 listings starting at $3,977
Used Toyota Corolla
118 Great Deals out of 1,979 listings starting at $2,795

Content submitted by Users is not endorsed by CarGurus, does not express the opinions of CarGurus, and should not be considered reviewed, screened, or approved by CarGurus. Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies.