My 2010 Silverado the service stabilitrak light came on and the Traction control off light also came on. Also the power reduction light came on. What could this be?

It could be a low voltage condition. Check your battery voltage with the engine running. Should be 13.5-14.5 VDC

This problem did not show up until I was about 1 hour into the drive at 70 mph.

Hi tenspeed, Sorry to hear you're having this issue with your truck. Not exactly sure what the reason is that your Stabiltrak and TC are malfunctioning. It could be a variety of things going on that is causing the power reduction. Because I am not a technician, I would recommend visiting your Chevy dealership to have it diagnosed. If you would like to private message me the last 8-digits of your VIN, name, and current mileage, I would be glad to research to see if you have any open recalls or special coverages that maybe related to the problem you're experiencing. If so, please private message me at socialmedia@gm.com ATTN: Vanessa in the subject line. Vanessa GM Customer Service

Throttle position sensor

my 2010 1500 4wd dit the same thing I found that water in the gas was the problem causing the motor to misssfire causing the traction control to screw up I cant explaine everything but I got down to half tank then I put seafoam in the fuel tank then ran it out of gas all the way then filled it back up with fuel and put more seafoam in tank truck now is running just fine no problems never turned a bolt on it ,try this first im sure u will also agree ron

I have the same problem with my late father's 2010 Z71. I appreciate the GM reps giving the same old "feel good" message about problems with the newer model trucks, but the problem is that when you have a relatively new vehicle and it codes like hundreds of others of the same make, you have a recall and fix the problem at no expense to the customer. That's called customer service and GM has never been a leader in that field. It's been my observations that they send you either to an incompetent dealer or some "feel good" rep on the phone who doesn't know a spark plug from a steering rod. To complicate matters further, my Dad's truck is a 2010 (only 27k miles) so it's out of warranty. Been a chevy man for years but will NEVER buy another one. Looking at Fords and Toyotas now.

I had the same problem with my 2010 Silverado Z71. AutoZone checked it for free and let me know that cylinder #1 was misfiring. Disabled the battery, changed the plug and problem solved. I love my Chevy!!!

I know this thread is old, but I also have a 2010 Silverado. Had to bring it in 3 times for 3 different spark plugs misfiring/and having oil in them. Also changed some valves or a rocker arm valve or something. Now it's burning oil and GM is doing an oil consumption test. Only 68k miles on it. And now while it was at the dealer the service stabiltrak warning came on. Was fine when I brought it in. You think Chevy would cover it since I have no idea who they had working on it. Nope, told me $570 to replace the steering wheel angle/position sensor. Def thinking differently about Chevy now. Might get her working and trade in for a ford.

So I have a 2011 silverado it now has 120,000 on it i have had this problem goin on with my truck for about 3 years off and on it started when I had reached about 75,000 miles these lights would come on service stabilizer track/service traction control/ and something about the ecm/ than it would say engine power reduced and would ride very rough and when it shifted it shifted pretty hard and sometimes the truck would just shut off when I'm driving. Can someone one plz help me figure out what it is? I took it to a mechanic and said it was a cylinder 6 missfire and the o2 sen but I changed that and didn't do anything.

I just had the same problem it was a TPS code so I put the new position sensor on and it continued. So I bought the new throttle body with sensor attached. The engine light went off after I reprogrammed the computer to the new Trottle body. Gas mileage improved but now if I idle to long the stabilitrack amd the traction control lights come on.

I have a 2wd 2008 silverado it started doing this after i replaced the brake light switch due to my cruise control not working

Zack2122 my truck is doing the exact same thing I mean the exact same thing.... Did you find out the problem? I've gotten my brake light switch fixed, hub, bearings. Still nothing

Vegassaint702 No I didn't find the problem but I did find out I have a dead cylinder on cylinder 6 and now my transmission is slipping I give up with this truck i want to swap with a ls3

I've had numerous issues with this truck, I can't even remember what my original question was. Here's a few things that I've had fixed. The stabilitrak light and traction control light was due to a sensor in the steering column. That was $500 from the dealer. I've had constant misfires on the 1-3-7 cylinders. Chevy/GM wouldn't and never helped me on this one even though I was having the problem while it was under warranty. All they did was swap out spark plugs. The latest issue was another misfire on #7 in which I had to replace the ignition coil and plug. I've had oil pressure sensor go, radiator, and some other sensor having to do with emissions. I don't beat on my truck or mistreat. Just drive to work and around town. This 2010 Silverado has been an absolute pile of garbage. And so were GM and Chevy dealers about helping me fix it.

I'm in the same boat 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 SLT w/ 107K miles. Service Stabilitrak, Service Traction Control, Service 4 Wheel drive. Hours of research on this and the dealership wants $80 to run diagnostics which is BS when auto stores run the same diagnostic for free and pull the codes. I told them the codes and they still want to charge me. What I have done so far is clean the throttle body, replace the paper air filter with a K&N, replaced spark plug and plug wires. Now I'm down to an intermittent problem. I'm going to try the Break Light Switch and Terminator Resistor at the rear axle next and lastly the steering wheel position sensor. This is complete BS that since 2007 these issues are going on with GM trucks and SUVs and there isn't a safety recall. Extremely disappointed at GM and the dealership. My Grandfather worked for GM for 37 years and he would roll in his grave if he knew how there customer service has become. Terrible!!!

Yeah I agree bud i just gave up on it

No but I did notice mine only does this if its in park Idleing for like 3 or 4 min then I put it in gear drive it shifts hard once and the shit goes back to normal lol

I solved my problem it seem like the new brake light switch had a defect from the factory so what I did got the old part open it and sanded the prones and its working fine now

I have a 2010 GMC Sierra SLT, after changing the coil and plug on cyl #1 yesterday for a misfire, I get in this morning to find the stabilitrak and traction control light on, after reading all of these post, I do not feel a warm fuzzy feeling about these trucks now.

After multiple misfires on mostly 1 and 7. Changed out the oil pressure switch/sensor twice within a year. And oil pressure was still around 20 at idle. A mechanic told me my engine probably didn't have much longer to live. He seemed to believe my cam bearings were spent and the crank bearing was probably shot. So I finAlly traded the Ol' girl in. Chevy and GM were no help what so ever and did not stand by there product. They instead sided with a dealer that didn't want to do the work. Very sad Chevy/GM.

here's an odd one for you, as I stated earlier, I had changed the coil and plug on cylinder 1 yesterday, (but I did not clear engine light or code at that time) this AM I got the stabilitrak, and traction control lights. I spoke with the dealer and they said that by not clearing the codes and lights, that this could cause the other issues,, so I ran down to the dealer at lunch to have them clear the codes. "AS SOON" as they did, the truck would not run. it would start up, but immediately die. did this about 4 times until it throwed the stabil/traction error, and as soon as those lights came back on, the truck would run. we cleared the code again, but this time (while the truck was running) and the instant the lights went out, the truck died. would not continue to run until the error reacurred. wth.

also, the hand held unit wasn't picking up any codes yet the stabil/tracton lights were on, the engine light did not come back on. im assuming this is why the hand held unit didn't read anything.

I always told myself I would never buy a Chevy, but my wife had her eye on this 2010 black Avalanche we both love the truck but it has big problems, it is idling rough stabiltrack and traction control lights are always on, they use to clear but not anymore. I have had trouble codes that read intermitant misfire on cylinder 8, of course I checked everything out with all cylinders and replaced wires and plugs, this did not help at all it still idles like crap, I was up until 3am working ont the throttle position sensor. This part is under extended warrantee for vehicles with the 5.3 piece of crap motor but only up to 125,000 miles and of course the problem did not begin until it hit 128,000 so I am afraid to start the piece of junk thinking the worst. Then after more research online it seams that automatic fuel control is causing the stabiltrack, traction control problems and the hard shifting that we are experiencing. I know that Chevey is aware of these issues and are lying to all of us about what is going on I have read a lot of these forums and it is a nightmare for all of us who are not bieng told the truth about about what is wrong and what to do about fixing these issues, I have heard of all kinds of insane fixes that the dealers are doing and what they are charging their customers, I came across three things that might help others with these problems. Throttle position sensor for idle problem, then two possible fixes for traction control and stabiltrack, one gentalman has fixed his by replacing the brake sensor at the brake pedal, then the one that makes the most sense to me is disabling the auto fuel control, or alternative displacement to use a Chrysler term, which by the way has always worked on my 2007 300c. Anyway it is possible to disable this feature you buy a $200 module that plugs into the obd port and will stop all of the goofy stuff that goes on like stabiltrack bad shifting and hopefully the many other problem that this piece of crap has wrong with it! I should have kept my promise to myself, don't ever buy a Chevy, somehow I knew for thirty years that the first Chevy I bought would be junk and I was right, it's a nice piece of junk that has a lot of great features but it is still junk unless it runs correctly all the time, we all expect problems with vehicles but this is huge and Chevy is doing all they can do to hide these problems and put the frustration and the bill on us, the suckers that buy thier fancy junk that does not work. David Watson very unhappy 2010 pretty black Chevy Avalanche LTZ owner. I look cool sitting in my driveway, but I am sure this thing is going to leave me stranded somewhere if I dare take it out of my driveway!

I had low engine oil pressure and rough idle on my 08 1500. My mechanic found there was an oil screen under the oil pressure sending unit that blocked the oil flow to the lifters that drop out so it runs as a 4 cylinder. Replaced the screen, and the oil pressure stabilized. Still had rough idle problems until the coil pack stress test showed a bad coil pack.

Jahah Thank you, I have read about the screen blocking oil to the lifters and forgot about it. I had success with the Tps and I have a new brake switch that I hope will fix my many engine warning lights, stabiltrack traction control and my cruise control that works on occasion! Thank you I will put my failures and successes on this site, so any others out there can get as much info as possible, I thank you for your input I am worried about the lifters they sound bad.

2011 Silverado 4x4 w/t. Had a service stability track system warningon the digital display and a check engine trouble code reporting a misfire in cylinder 1. Of course rough running on 7 cylinders. Replaced plugs and wires and cleared code. Ran great for one day and now engine just shuts down randomly. Runs great idols great no codes no dash warning. 82000 miles. Purchased a break light switch today. Had truck idling in my driveway came out got into it and when I put my foot in the break peddle it shutdown again. Hoping that the constant in all the shutdown s has something to do with that break switch. Once again no help from Chevy or dealers. No code no help. Father worked for gm for 43 credited years. I'm thinking I'm trading this peice of shit in for a Ford with a stick. Will post on findings with results from break switch replacement. All power stays active when engine shuts down!!!!

It is your battery and on my truck it was my negative cable replaced both and it fixed everything and I had fm dealer do it only cost 175 for all which was convenient while I was working out of town

Gm

Update I became convinced that there was a problem with the lifters so I tried to clean them and hoped that I would get lucky and not have to spend a lot on replacing them. well I do have to replace them and the valve lifter oil manifold about $800 for the parts, I just finished taking the left cylinder head off tonight the right side had one lifter that was pitted and a small flat spot on the roller. i will inspect the ones i got out tonight in the morning. then there is the cam, i am really hoping that that failed roller on the lifter did not damage that cam. there is a problem with the 5.3l with AFM or DOD if you prefer, I have researched this extensively and have been told by long term Chevy mechanics that these motors have a high percentage come into the dealership that have lifter or lifter and cam damage. anyway i am glad that a battery cable was your fix but mine is a bit bigger, I have read that a bad battery or bad connection can cause the same type of problems with stabiltrack and traction control. I thank you for you for your response, for all you Chevy lovers out there, I believe there is a design problem with the AFM and they will probably get away with it sticking us with the bill, I give them very high marks for the bottom end there is no wear on the cylinder walls the pistons are dirty and the intake valve is dirty but when i started having these problems i did a cylinder leak down and it passed with flying colors. after seeing it with my own eyes i am impressed. my hope is that the VLOM ( that has a new design and is a significant upgrade according to a Chevy mechanic) which has to be replaced or the lifter manufacturer (I chose to buy non GM) will not warrantee their parts, will put an end to my woes, i kind of think the design problem is with the old VlOM, so I will change my oil more often and keep an eye on the lifter valve oil filter under the pressure sensor and of course listen for any lifter noise! I hope all of you have a better experience with your repairs than i am having.

I'm having the same exact problem with my 2010 1500 Silverado. Lifters are being looked at/ replaced for the second time in 2 months. Techs are saying possible catisrophic engine failure now, only 116k miles. Anyone know who I can talk to about this!!!!

I have a 2011 Silverado and almost as soon as I hit the brakes the traction control light, stabilatrac, abs, and then it will come up and say service tc, stabilatrac, trailer brake system, and it won't let me pull it out of park sometimes??

Jason I don't know who to talk to. I have tried to talk to the GM people on the customer service website. I was told that I had to get it diagnosed by a Chevy mechanic, of course I am unwilling to pay Chevy one dime to tell me what is wrong with thier 5.3l motor, so I researched and found out that this happens to a lot of buyers. I replaced the lifters in my truck, no easy task I must say, the heads have to be removed. My truck is running great! Did they replace the valve lifter oil manifold (VLOM) when they did the lifters the first time? A Chevy mechanic from "just answer" told me that all of my problems with the traction control and the other systems would go away when I fixed the problem with cyl 8. He was right no more lights and all systems are working great.

I called dealership about same problem with my 2011 Sierra that all of you also have experienced and it appeared to be the first time he heard of it. This truck has no miles on it but has been nothing but trouble. First and last GMC that I will own.

2008 drooped valve at 150000 miles I rebuilt the engine on test drive Transmission went out so had that rebuilt second drive starter rips out of the block removed engine and had welded back drill tap and now this engine reduction mode I think I am going to set the truck on fire and watch over $4000 in parts and can't drive

So I have a 2010 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 that just rolled over 40k miles. Yep that is right. This thing looks brand spanking new. The check engine light came on while we were driving it last week but we could tell anything was wrong. We stopped at autozone and they plugged it in and told us it was a misfire on the #4 plug. We decided to just watch it and see what happened. Nothing that day. Saturday we decided to go buy windows so we drove it 1 1/2 hours from our house, bought windows and were headed to our cabin another hour away to drop off those windows. The vehicle started idling rough while driving down the freeway and the service stabilitrack light comes on. At this point it starts to shift very hard and I wondered if my windows would get broken. Needless to say this truck has only been used on the high and the hardest thing it has done is pull a boat. It is definitely a princess yard ornament. I always buy new so I have one vehicle that I can take off and go anywhere. We have started trying the things listed above but so far we haven't solved the problem yet. I have been a lifelong chevy supporter but I think we are going to trade it in for a Ford diesel if we can get it to run well enough that it can get a good trade in value.

Have you found the problem yet? Is the motor a 5.3l with active fuel management? Is there any noisy lifters? My 2010 Avalanche did the same thing, it was the active fuel management system that caused my lifters to fail, after upgrading the vlom (valve lifter oil manifold, this is the part that I believe was poorly designed) and replacing all of the lifters. I am happy to say all is well. I hope your problem is easier, if you fix whatever is causing the misfire all of the malfunctioning systems will operate normally, a Chevy mechanic told me that, I did not believe him but he was right. The key to your problem is the misfire mine was random misfire on cyl 8 I am surprised the truck would start after checking the old lifters. My first Chevy truck, I was livid but I did not pay a dealership one dime for anything and repaired the truck myself so I feel good about that. Craig Watson

I have a similar problem and have been going around and around with the dealership and Chevy for several years. I have always driven Chevy trucks if for no other reason than my father liked them. As several others have mentioned, Ford and Toyota are looking better and better. I bought a new 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 in January 2010. The truck currently has 78,224 miles on it. From the beginning there has a been a problem. At 19,873 miles the stabilitrak and reduced power lights came on and the trucks speed would drop to about 30 mph creating a dangerous driving situation. The same scenario happened at 37,643 miles, 57,522 miles, and 78,224 miles. I took the truck back to the dealership each time and was told the problem was the accelerator pedal/sensor and they replaced the parts. The second time I took the truck back for the same problem, someone from GM contacted me after I raised questions and concerns in an online discussion group. To Chevy's credit, the woman who contacted me was able to extend the warranty. This has been harrowing for me in the past on the interstate as I tried to cross traffic and exit at 30 mph. Since she works in town, my wife has been driving the truck and the same thing happened to her in June, 2017. She was turning left across morning work traffic on an uphill grade when the power reduced and she was creeping broadside to traffic coming over the hill on a state highway. Her words were, “Scared the bejeebers out of me.” I am again told the problem is a sensor/accelerator pedal issue that makes the stabilitrack light come on and the truck go into reduced power mode. The pattern has been consistent, treat the symptoms but don’t fix the problem, which is a safety hazard. When the service rep told me it was the sensor in the accelerator pedal I was not surprised, same old tired song. The dealership has a clear record of the same part failing, my concern is what are they doing to find the cause of the failure. Replacing the part offers does not instill any confidence. The “service” manager, called. I told him the problem had not been fixed and he said according to his records it had. I replied the symptoms had been treated again but the problem had not been fixed. His comment was the “fix” lasted 16 or 17 months so it was fixed. He misses the point, there is an underlying cause for the same part to continue failing and creating unsafe conditions when driving.

I'm no big on posting on these forums. But anyways I need some advice on my truck. I have a 2010 Silverado 1500 about 98k miles on it. I have the stabilititrak & traction message on the dash, the abs light & traction light come on. It ONLY happens when driving for a while & I press on the break for several mins like when I'm on a red light. There is no noise from the engine. If you guys have any ideas of what it might be let me know please & thank you.

Wiggle the battery cables connectors on the battery and tied them up real good. In hot weather after driving a long time, the connectors get hot and expand losing contact with the battery. Give it a try it worked for me.

I don't have an answer but would like to know if any of you have also had the problem of Service Traction Control, loss of power, along with the doors going crazy locking and unlocking. We will be taking our 2010 1500 Silverado for the 3rd time to Chevy for fixing with the same problem. After reading all these answers, we see that there are a lot of trucks will less problems experiencing some of our same issues. It is intresting to read that Chevy is trying to hide all these problems instread of just making it a recall. Please let us know if any of you also experience not only messages going on but doors locking and unlocking. It is so scary when that happens. Thank you all for your comments. They are very helpful and hopefully Chevy will see them.

I have a 2004 Avalanche my door locks was cycling, lost power light keep coming on, and it was dying, but after a few weeks of me trying to figure out what was going on. I started taking every ground off and cleaning the surface and at each end of the wire with a piece of sand paper and bolting it back down. And go drive it again to see if it fixed it. After several times doing that I finally came across one ground wire that was broken well hanging on by 3 little wires on the passenger side of the engine on top, underneath your engine cover that was bolted to the back of your engine block. I cut extended the wire 6 inches or so and put a new end on the wire, bolted it back up and haven't had a problem in 2 months

2013 Silverado....service traction control ...my problem too has anybody thought class action?

I KNOW IT SUCKS THROWING PARTS BUT WHAT I FOUND THAT HARD SHIFTING AND IT WONT DRIVE OR RUN RIGHT IS THE CRANKS SENSOR. 58 BUCKS FROM DEALER (DO NOT BUY SENSORS ANYWHERE BUT THE DEALER, YOU HAVE TO LOOK AT IT MINE WENT AT 138000 MILES) I LEARNED THE HARD WAY AND BOUGHT CHEAP ONES AND THEY ENDED UP GOING BAD AFTER COUPLE THOUSAND MILES! ALSO THE CAM SENSOR IS ANOTHER ONE TO REPLACE, THIS ONE MAKES IT NOT RUN OR RUN TERRIBLE OFF THE GET! SO THE CRANK SENSOR IS BEHIND THE STARTER, I REPLACE 13MM PULL STARTER / MOVE IT TO THE SIDE (DISCONNECT BATT FIRST) AND CRANK SENSOR HAS 1-10MM BOLT, UNPLUG AND REPLACE. CAM SENSOR IS TO THE RIGHT OF WATER PUMP AND YOU WILL NEED A 10MM ONLY, SAME DISCONNECT BATT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS ON SENSOR AND THERE ARE 2- 10MM BOLTS. TAKE A BIG SCREWDRIVER AND PRY BEHIND SENSOR CAREFULLY, PULL OUT AND REPLACE. I SAY MOST ELECTRONICS SHOULD BE CHANGED EVERY 50,000 MILES (DEALER ONLY) THIS WILL KEEP YOU FROM BREAKING DOWN ON THE ROAD. ITS ONLY COUPLE HUNDRED BUCKS EVERY 50,000 MILES WHERE ITS ALMOST THE SAME FOR TOW AND NOT HAVING A RUNNING VEHICLE

oh sorry my truck is a 2008 silverado ltz 1500 with the 5.3

i also replaced my electronic pedal 78 bucks at dealer and the throttle position sensor 44 bucks at dealer. it is well worth it

I have a 2011 Avalanche 5.3 with 63K on it. All at once the messages came up service traction control, service stabilitrak a flashing check engine light and the traction control light. With this a rough idle and hard shifting. I drove it to the dealer. The read a p0300 code and replaced: SL-N-COVER, SL-N -Spark Plug, GDI kit. They informed me of Bulletin 10-06-01-008M 'Advised customer may need new piston. AFM oil deflector, rocker arm cover, connecting rod & bearing both sides'. I didn't do any of that since the amount of mies on it and the bulletin was about oil consumption. So $562.87 later I picked up my truck and drove it home so far so good.

I have the same issue with my 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 liter engine. I replaced all lifters and cam shaft. $1400 later and it worked fine. Now I'm driving on the highway and the stabilitrak and tracking turns on. Bottom line I can't find the problem. I don't loose any pressure but the light is on. Looks like Toyota is best for me. I had to trade in my 2014 GMC Acadia because of the same problem. I've always been a Chevy person, but no more. Even the newer models are having too many issues. Once again the are building junk.

I have a 2012 Silverado 2500 HD. I was driving my truck the low gas light came on truly felt like it was running out of gas. It was like in limp mode would barely drive as it would pick up fuel. At the same time my traction control and ABS light came on and check engine light. Well I found it to be was my relay was not doing its job. But now my traction control and my ABS light stays on. My truck runs just fine brakes good but the lights are on. Going to work on battery cables in the morning and I will let you know tomorrow when I get it.

Throttle position sensor

I would start by replacing the sensor located on the brake pedal. Buy it original at the dealership. Don't go to autozone or other auto parts store. If you have lost power on you motor. Well one of your lifters is misfiring. Be ready to spend some bucks. I paid $1,400 for 16 new lifters and crank shaft. Silverado that have 8 cylinders and then changes to 4 cylinders aren't really good engines. In the long run you pay more for maintenance. All sorts of problems occurs with this motors. GM is beginning to make horrible engines. If you do get a GM make sure to get a 6.3 liter. You will not have a problem. Last thing check you throttle sensor but I honestly think that throttle sensor is not your problem. I'm selling my GM problems.

I have a 2011 gmc 6.2 service stab and track light as well as the abs came on today. After reading this thread I will start with the brake switch and go from there. While back I had issues with my truck shutting down and locks cycling come to find out one of the cables on the battery had came loose causing a bad connection. I love this truck and hope this is just a simple fix. Truck runs fine shifts smooth so I'll try my luck with it as a daily driver until I can get some time to diagnose further.

My 2010 Silverado died yesterday with 117k. 5.3 ltr engine. Two days in a row I almost broke down on the way to work for this issue. I took my truck to a dealership in Omaha NE where I purchased the truck used just 3 short years ago, and 40,000 miles later, the service department said it was caused by the lifters sticking due to AFM. The engine was shot to them, said it needed lifters and valve work, and it would just be easier and cheaper to throw a new motor in for me. My code was P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected. Once the light came on the truck would shift extremely hard both up and down in 1st and 2nd. I was given no warning before this happened. No noises, no codes, nothing. Just went from a great truck I really liked to drive, to a paperweight. I think it's crazy a truck taken as good of care of as I did is completely shot. I leased a new Chevy but I can only imagine this will last me at least 117,000 miles. I hope so anyways.

Same problem traction control light, service trabiltrak came on. I started with the battery cable inspection after reading someone on here had that problem, and found a loose negative battery cable. Tightened it down and problem solved. Chevy Silverado 2011.

I have a 2008 Chevy. Due to the AFM I had catastrophic engine failure. Hard shifting, rough idling. It's a known problem and GM/Chevy will do nothing about it. 5.3 L motor. Just had the motor replaced due to failure on #6 cylindet, shot camshaft, lifters etc. I'll never own another Chevy again always been a Chevy person. Pretty disappointing they don't care about loyal customers. Only had 130,000 miles on it.

Hey bro I have a 2008 Silverado mine did the same exact thing I looked everywhere in the net and on my truck. I replaced shocks with rancho quick lifts and replaced ball joints. Today is 8/9/18 I took it to the alignment shop that does Lazer alignment and after all done drove off and drove to see if it came back on and nothing I drove 200 miles for work and still hasn't came on

AFM PROBLEM.... 2011 65k MILES engine light on and stability track light going on/off with rough idle (chocking out a low speed) went to dealer and they tried to charge $4,700 to repair cylinder #7 they said or they can re-build with new engine ??!!! 65K MILES on 2011 truck !@#!! I called GM and explained the problem and they paid for the parts only. Labor was $1,200. got it fixed and sold the truck for a 2018 Toyota Tundra :) NO MORE GM FOR ME.

Has anybody found a conclusive answer,2013 Silverado.....

Our 2010 was doing the same stabilizer -traction issue and of course low power and just wouldn't run right after allot of research we had friend hook it up to a diagnostic check. It showed #8 misfiring. We pulled the plug it was shot. Replaced it. Took battery cables off for 15 minutes to let the computer reset. That worked. No more traction link stabilizer issue. This also was happening every time I bought premium gas. I was told not to buy premium for it. It tends to sit longer before being sold and then causes major issues. Replace the plugs. Check all wired to battery and hope it works for you too. At least ling enough to trade it in lol

2008 GMC SLE same issue here. Cylinder 6 and Traction control. My 2000 GMC has 375k miles on it and never an engine problem. Alternator and front left wheel spindle are only two items replaced. Why did they change them to AFM and screw them up? Time for a Ford.

If you loose power on your truck it's one of your lifters. You are going to spend over $1,400 in repairs. But if no power is lost you might want to check a sensor located on the brake pedal. Don't buy the sensor at local auto parts store. They are no good. Buy at dealership. It only takes a few minutes to change. I had the same problem and changed this particular sensor and all lights were gone. Then I sold my Chevy. I bought a Toyota. GM sorry but your 5.3 liters motor are no good. Too many problems. Changing cylinders from 8 to 4 puts a lot of stress on motor causing it to break down often.

Hope this helps,,, my 09 Silverado with 5.3, last winter was my first winter driving it. When temps dropped below 34 F, I would get the ABS light, traction control light, 4wd selection would not work and cruise was intermittent. So I changed the stop light switch with an auto parts switch. Problem went away until I noticed my brake lights were staying on. The auto parts switches tolerances don't have enough gap so the switch is engaged, I repaired the original switch and ordered an OEM switch. Temps got warmer and no issues. Well winter again and problems are back. I hooked up that new switch. Made sure I could feel the play in the brake pedal and click of the switch. It has been in the single digits and everything has worked fine now. So use a factory part and make sure you have the play in pedal to switch. Temp was also an issue so dont assume it is fixed like i did at end of winter.

same truck, same issue. I've replaced the same #7 spark 3 times in a year. Ive done the updated valve cover that was a known gm issue and was supposed to fix the problem. Nope, i'm still messing with it, digging around i found it may be the fuel injectors, or at worse a the lifters. I don't think its the lifters as it's fine when i replace the spark plug and reset the truck.

11 silverado had engine light, tps light, seat belt light, traction control light, abs light and if i put on the high beam head lights i get a blue light... got all the lights of a christmas tree.. should have gone with a ford.. chevy.. biggest mistake i ever made.

had exact problem happen to me today with my 2011 silverado - driving down the road, truck started to shake, engine reduced power, service stabilitrak light came on, traction control off, etc. After a little research and a visit to autozone for $25 - good as new. Disconnected negative battery cable, installed new stoplight switch under steering column (many youtube videos, easy repair). Runs like new again

My 2011 Sierra LTS 5.3 has same issues as mentioned. When it's cold -15 and colder having all the Service Stabilitrak, Traction Control, Trailer brake system, brake light is on, and the 4x4 doesn't work when I need it. Will try all the mentioned fixes. Appreciate all the helpful suggestions. I'm also a lifelong GM guy. So disappointed in GM. Would love the truck if they hadn't put all that useless crap on it and it worked!.

I had the same issue, I was on 95 south at about 70 mph and noticed my truck shift and the engine light appeared and stabilize came on and put me into limp mode. I ran my scanner and found code P2135 throttle body sensor instead of buying just the sensor I bought the whole throttle body for 185 bucks at auto zone, easy to install, you don't need any one to flash the new one into your pcm so far fixed the problem. I was told Chevy had recalls on these I will check it out,I didn't have time to play around so I bit the bullet and just purchased a new one.

2009 4WD Silverado 1500 Service Stabilitrak, traction control and engine power reduced message. Parts store hooked it up and read the gas pedal sensor was bad. Then my truck was dead and wouldn't hold the charge from the jump. Took it in and they are saying at first it was the battery needs replaced because it won't hold a charge so they can't hook it up to read the codes. Changed it, now saying it is not happening to them when they drive it. Then they say finally happened and it is the throttle body. This is a new one from reading up on everyones experience I never once saw that as a problem. I am worried $500 later the problem is still going to be there and they will keep adding on these things to just try.

2012 1500 chevy... just paid it off a month ago.. Stabilitrak and traction turn off twice while driving on highway 75-80 mph..engine light comes on.. lose power, engine idles crappy... turned off reset battery/electrical.. lights went away ran nearly 120 miles before it happened again.. replaced spark plugs last year.. reading all the forum posts.. thinking it's the throttle body.. bought one and hearing it needs to be relearned went to dealership and they want to charge $130 to press a couple of buttons to relearn.. decided to call local mechanic.. going to charge $20 to relearn.. well havent changed out the throttle body yet.. all lights went out without resetting battery drove two days locally around 30 miles.. all lights came on when I hit a bump.. is it a loose wire? Started slamming on the traction control button a mile later all lights went away.? Scared to replace throttle body... love the truck.. been hunting hunting every year since I've had ut.. rough roads but might be time to get a Toyota..

After driving it overnight and today no lights are coming on on the dash and all power functions seem to be working. When I first got in it it seemed to shift hard in and out of second gear but got smoother the more I drove. I can still feel a little jump in the shifting but no one else notices it. We will see what time tells.

Blah blah blah... Our mechanic put in a new throt blah blah... Our mechanic put in a new throttle postion sensor and cleared all the old error codes. It works prfectly fine now. t in a new throttle

Man, I didn't do well posting that! Our mechanic fixed our truck by replacing the throttle position sensor and clearing all the error codes. $380CAD. It works perfectly fine now. Anyhow, our Silverado was having the same stabil trak issues as most of you. Then it would go into a limp mode or stall if I let the rpms go below about 800. Stalled turning in a busy intersection twice! Try it! Christina

I would recommend/be part of a Class Action Lawsuit against Chevy/GM if possible! Please, it may be the only hope we have for these trucks! Anybody?

The negative battery cable of our 2008 Silverado is about six feet long and is poorly bonded to the frame. Had problems with door locks, stabilitrack and a host of other problems. I made a one foot bonding cable to run from battery negative to chassis and the ghost problems disappeared. Had problems with stabilitrak and found a suggested fix by running a heavy gauge cable from chassis ground to the alternator mount. The stabilitrak problem disappeared.

The problem is with the steering wheel position sensor. I just changed mine out 2 days ago. Took me about 2 hours and a new sensor. All is good. You can save yourself a thousand or so if you do it yourself. You tube has a very good explanation video how to do it. Not hard at all. Trust me. My 2011 1500 LT 4x4 is back to normal

I have a 2011 Silverado. started off with traction control and stabilitrak lights coming on when it was over 80 degrees outside. Now anytime I am in drive they come on no matter the temperature. Now my abs light is also on. From what I have read it could be any one of several sensors. Brake sensor, throttle position sensor, steering position sensor, gas pedal sensor, abs sensor, o2 sensor. I will say this is the first chevy I have ever owned. Not looking very good at keeping me a repeat customer.

I had the same exact thing. I had both of those messages pop up after driving. Eventually it came on immediately. Then one day got in to leave and check engine light and all kinds of bells and whistles came on... Reduced engine power and straight into limp mode. Pulled this P2138 code. I changed the throttle position sensor $50 at AutoZone. Had the same problems. Bought a complete accelerator pedal (comes with sensor built into it) for $110 at AutoZone and changed it out. Instantly cleared out the service traction control and service stabilitrak and no limp mode. Check engine light cleared out after about 80-100 miles. Hope this helps keep someone from chasing their tail like I did.

I am first swapping out the older battery and the brake switch to see if those might solve the problem before proceeding to more expensive repairs like the steering sensor or throttle body. I was told by a mechanic I trust that the throttle sensor error and lean bank errors (and related) are the result of limp mode and are not the cause of the failure. They are secondary errors. We'll soon see...

UPDATE: I just returned from a 900 mile road trip and another 80 miles up the mountains and back and I have not had the same issue once since installing the new battery and brake switch. It could just be a coincidence, so I'll update again in a few weeks either way.

My 2011 GMC Sierra SLT, after much frustration with Traction Control and Sabiltrak coming on and going into limp mode, I changed the brake light switch and it completley solved the problem. Otherwise very happy my truck. Too bad GM didn't have a recall service offer for such a simple fix and save major frustration. Would of been positive for GM. overall.

It's been two weeks and roughly 1,600 miles without a single incident whereas it likely would have happened 4-5 times by now before the replacement. The easy fix does indeed appear to be the battery and/or brake light switch. I ordered the "ACDelco D1539J GM Original Equipment Brake Light Switch" on Amazon for only $13 and easily installed it in my 2010 Silverado in about 8-10 minutes. It only took a standard screwdriver and a 10mm socket. Good luck!

I recently hauled a Uhaul trailer, lightly loaded, from Reno to SLC. I used the "Trailer" switch at the end of the gear shifter. It made the trip fine, then I put some gas in it and I noticed a knocking sound while waiting at stoplights. Then yesterday, the stabilitrack service message came on and traction control off indicator came on, along with check engine light. Sitting at stoplights it sounds like someone knocking on wood and you can tell it runs rough. Anyone experience the "knocking on a door" noise?

Hey y’all I’m having the same issue. But not getting the power reduced. My symptoms are the traction control lights go off, stabilitrack shuts off, and the transmission shifts hard. I hear a clicking from the dash when I click on the brake pedal and my headlights flicker as well. I had the tranny rebuilt less then 6 months ago and it’s Throwing transmission codes

I replaced the tps and nothing. Replaced the brake light switch and so far that fixed my problem.

Hi so I have a 2010 Chevy Silverado 1500 Lt with 180k miles TPS BRAKE LIGHT SWTICH STEERING ANGLE SENSOR ABS FUSE OR A BAD GROUND WITH THE HEAD LIGHTS I have replaced these electrical part through out the duration of having my truck I will not buy another Chevy anything

UPDATE: One year later... After trying the new battery and brake light switch, it turns out that the REAL PROBLEM was the electronic throttle body (ETB) that didn't even appear damaged or worn. Apparently, it was electronically "jittery" and caused a bunch of secondary system problems. Both the battery and brake light switch replacements appeared to solve the problem at first, but it returned several months later. Once I replaced the ETB, not only was the problem completely and permanently resolved, but the engine runs and idles so much better! They are only about $120 and very easy to replace. Just try it. You probably won't be disappointed!

The traction control and stabilitrak service message came on after forgetting to hook the Mass Air Flow Sensor back in after changing the front right light bulb. The motor began to run rough -- definitely expected, but not the stabilitrak service message. After hooking the Mass Air Flow sensor in, the engine ran correctly -- as expected. The stabilitrak service message also went away.