Truck won't start

sounds like starter

What about the starter. You would think, if it was the starter, it wouldn't start after many attempts. It did and then ran perfectly. Need more solutions

Got in my truck today at 2 different times. Both times it started right up. I can't figure out the problem. What can be the issue?

I'm having the same problem with my 1988 GMC 1500 I was told its the starter I'm going to replace it I guess that will determine if its the starter ornot just wwish I had a for sure wayof knowing

Having same issue. Changed out starter two days ago. Still is a hard start. Sometimes I need starter fluid

Mine does same thing 1995 gmc 1500

You definitely need to check voltage readings and make sure you don't have a bad block make sure you clean every part under the hood you can. If it has a computer plug go tow it or buy one online. Check exhaust as well.

I cant get mine to start change fuel pump and still wont start please soneone help me with this

Same thing was happening to my 1995 gmc 1500. I figured out that it was the throttle body going bad. I replaced the throttle body with a good used one and now my truck runs fine.

I am having similar problem, mine turns over, no fuel coming out of injectors, sometimes it does sometimes it does, when it does it runs fine but if you turn it off, chances are that it won't work again. I replaced the fuel pump, ecm, distributor, throttle body and injectors, still same issue. Could it be in the ignition key? The key is worn down and little flecks of metal come out of the key hole when you tap the column. Does the key ignition have anything to do with power to the injectors?

starter is missing heat shield . starter gets hot and swells up because its too close to exhaust manifold

Check wires, cap, plugs. No fuel or no spark stops all engines. No fuel/ bad pump, bad filter. Spark/ old bad wires, plugs, cap etc. Having same issue, 94 gmc Sierra. Happened before, I gave it air, it started, thought bad filters, then noticed no umph in acceleration, leads me fuel line or bad plugs, not burning fuel. Checked carb, It's not wet this time, leads me to fuel. Have very old wires etc too, seems to stop while turning over, as if it hits a bad plug, some discontinuance.

I had a similar issue with a 99 GMC suburban. The engine would crank but would not start. Before it got to that point it would run rough in the rain. SOLUTION. I rubbed of the deposit built up on the contacts of the distributor cap with my finger nails to prevent damage. Then I used a hair blower for 3 min on the cap and rotor. Assembled the cap/rotor and it fired right up! Turns out moisture was getting into my cap n rotor, plus at 4 years old it was time for a new cap & rotor.

Jbird 163 just tap the starter its finna go but wen u tap it it will loosen the gears in it

It's not the starter if it starts sometimes. I've fixed this issue several times myself and it's almost always the connection of the wire between the starter and the battery. Check the wire on the positive battery side post. Unscrew the post, clean it with sandpaper, reattach and make sure the screw is tight. Failing that, use a multimeter to test that the voltage coming through that wire is 12 volts. If those don't work, then it could the be the ignition as said in other reply. Also, it's not the neutral switch, fuel pump, exhaust or anything else past the battery if there's no crank.

I have a 2000 Gmc Yukon denali, 5.7 litter, it cranks but won't start it does have spark in coil, but No spark in #1 sparplug I put new distributor and new coil new sparplugs, new plug wires,checked out fuses there all good, does anyone know if it can be the Timming belt? By the Timming being off cause it not to spark?? Anyone? I would highly appreciate the help

jalcantar69 If your timing belt is broken ..no cam action...no cam action...no valve train...no valve train... no start. Pull a spark plug and have someone turn the engine over...you will hear air being forced out of the spark plug hole if the valve train is spinning. Another way would be to pull the cap off the distributor and see if the rotor spins while cranking. The distributor is driven off of a gear on the cam...no cam spin... no distributor spin... no start...

@Jbird163 Original poster. Jaybird stated very clearly that his 1988 GMC Sierra 1500 turns over perfectly, crank no start...so this is not a starter motor problem...which would be described as a no crank situation. This is an intermittent fuel delivery problem or an intermittent electrical connection problem or possible engine management component intermittent Jbird163 ...you mentioned your battery dropped to 9 volts after several attempts to start. Was your battery back to 12.6 volts after driving home? Test fuel pressure - Gauge required. Test the EEC - autoecmecu.com Check the electronic spark control module, the ignition control module and all related connections.

I have a ? I just replaced my starter on my 93 chevy silverado 2wd 5.0 350....and it turns on but when i turn it on it makes a scratchy sound once i turn it on can anyone help me?

Replace my steering wheel colum but truck won't start

I had a 1984 GMC Sierra 1500 with an intermittent "Cranks over no start condition" very similar to @jbird163. The intermittent no start component failure was traced to the ignition control module located in the base of the distributor. Yes this electronic module can provide intermittent operation. To test for this failure without throwing new parts at your vehicle you need to perform several tests. Find the procedure here: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1 Once you eliminate fuel delivery, ignition coil, distributor cap, leads, plugs and pick up coil you are left with the ignition module as the culprit. You cannot test the module directly but only through a process of elimination of the ignition system components. PS: If your vehicle has not had a basic ignition system tune up in a long while check the resistance of the HEI ignition leads. Very high spark plug wire resistance from worn out leads can stress the ignition module to a point of failure. Always be sure when testing for spark that it has someplace to go...an HEI spark plug tester is preferable to trying to jump a spark across a wide gap.

I am having the same problem with my 1977 GMC Grand Sierra it ran great today and I parked it in my driveway came back to put it into the garage and I turn it over and it made no sound at all my battery is fine the headlights were working fine and the radio I'm wondering if mine is the starter as well

BWTKS - Your GMC is not turning over? This condition is known as a "No Crank" which basically means the starter motor is not spinning the engine when you turn the key to the ignition's start position. Your battery may seem fine because the lights work...ect...but that doesn't confirm the battery is delivering enough amps to turn over the engine. Clean and tighten your battery terminals. Load test the battery or have it tested at your local garage. Try lightly tapping the body of the starter motor with a hammer. (Sometimes as the tolerances within the starter get a little sloppy and it causes the armature to bind.) It is helpful to have an assistant turning the key while tapping. You can also measure for voltage at the starter with a multi- meter to confirm that the starter is receiving some battery current. This will confirm that the wiring is delivering some battery power. Lastly you can try bridging the starters heavy terminal to the smaller terminal while the ignition is in the "Run" position. This by passes the ignitions start contacts which may be worn. If none of the above steps engages the starter..it most likely needs to be replaced.

I have a k3500 4x4 carbed.It will run like a sewing machine and then without warning just shut off..no crank,no pw .but have all lights horn etc.. Thus far i have checked the starter All wires going to the starter for OHMs all within spec Battery and the rest of the chareging system got it down to where i thought it could be nothing else the ign switch on the columns NOT the key and tumbler After the switch was installed ran great ( but it always ran great) started right up.went to do something backing out of the parking spot and dead..no click..no nothing. Any ideas would be great,i just dont trust the ol' girl anymore.

RE- K3500 What year is your vehicle? OBDII? Any fault codes? You may have a bad ground, short to ground or a loose connector causing problems. Do a visual inspection of ALL the wiring harnesses... looking for bare or burnt spots and loose connectors (starting with the ignition switch connector(s). Check the battery ground to chassis/block and all other grounding straps you can locate. . If the visual inspection doesn't turn up any obvious problems and you can get the K started... flex the harnesses trying to get the engine to stall. If you can't mimic the fault while idling in park, a wiring schematic for your specific truck will identify the suspect ignition wiring for the under-hood fuse/relay center (starter relay) and motor, harness connectors and ground positions. PS: The lights and horn get power directly from the fuse block and are not switched...they are always hot.

I also have same like problem, have 85 GMC C1500 305. starts,,, runs,,,, went to walmart other day about 5 miles, pulled in parking lot it shut off, wouldn't start again, waited about 2-3 hrs later it started ran back home about 5 miles ran fine..Today it did same thing again, just turns off like ya turn key off. no missing, no running rough, just shuts off whenever it wants. have checked distributor, button, cap, rotor was replaced, still same thing. any ideas what else to check? Thanks

RE - Phil_613 If a vehicle has spark, compression and fuel it will run. We know you have fuel and compression as your engine did run, crank and start (when it was cold) but dies without warning (like running out of fuel -stumbling) Did it start right back up today? or did you have to wait for the engine to cool down? Does your motor fail to crank over? or does it crank over fine but fail to start? Check the engine to frame and battery grounds for tight clean connections, battery positive terminal, starter motor wiring and harness connectors for good contact. The ignition switch (located on the steering column under the dash) could also cause a temporary loss of power. I have had mid eighties GMC trucks that run, are turned off and then when the owner returns a few minutes later the engine cranks but will not start, but this symptom has never been reported to kill an engine while driving down the road. So basically I would look for loose, corroded connections, I would look at the wiring harness for any signs of over heating and I would check the ignition switch. Let us all know how you make out.

I have a 1992 GMC Sierra 5.7 that will not start. If I dump a little gas down the throttle body it will start and run fine. I replaced the Ignition control module today and it did not help. Any Ideas??

Hello ckeipper...There is an adapter to connect a fuel line pressure test gauge to the fuel delivery line. You need to see 12 PSI More info at the link below: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/fuel-pump-test-1

I have a 1992 GMC Sierra with a 5.7 litter. Battery is new, plugs and wires are new, alternator is also new. It has recently started the cranking intermittently thing. When it does crank, it runs great. This is the second time that it has not cranked for me. It may be pure coincidence, however, it has been on about 1/4 of a tank of gas both times. Any suggestions?

Hello HotRodGMC, If I understand this correctly, your truck will occasionally not turn over..."No Crank" Turn the key and nothing happens. If this describes the intermittent problem you are encountering I would look at the ignition switch (located on the steering column not in the actual lock cylinder) and if your truck is a manual transmission, the safety start switch located above the clutch pedal linkage. The safety start switch prevents starting while the tranny is in gear. Unless the clutch pedal is depressed the vehicle will not turn over. The ignition switch is controlled by a rod actuated by turning the ignition key which can require adjustment or replacement. Let us know how you make out with your efforts.

I'm working on a 1998 Chevy pu put a new motor in it.... went to turn it over to bring #1piston up to tdc. It wouldn't turn over... found the ground wire on right side motor under alt. Unhooked... grounded it and it works great

I have a88 silverado with 350 AT has TBI the injectors will not fire. We have replaced the fuel pump with an ACDelco unit have 12PSI pressure new fuel filter. The pump will come on for the 2sec run then quit. we have spark at the plugs (have tested several different ones on both banks, have 12 volts at injectors and pump with key on. The SnapOn scanner is showing no codes. The first try after the new pump the injectors did well and ran for about a min then it was as if some turned the key off. Distributor wires and plugs are new. if we put a little pit of gas in the TBI it will run. We have checked the pump and lines out and they are clear. I plan on using a Noid today and I even tapped the ECM to see if that would help. Any other ideals?

Hello wro87 Your throttle body is controlled by your vehicles ECM (computer), using a coolant sensor, TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, and heated Oxygen sensor for input information. OBD I Codes 1988 -1995 GMC Trucks 13 - O2 (oxygen sensor) circuit open 21 - TPS (throttle position sensor) circuit high (signal voltage high) 22 - TPS (throttle position sensor) circuit low (signal voltage low) 33 - MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor circuit high (low vacuum) 34 - MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor circuit low (high vacuum) 53 - System voltage high (supply to ECM/PCM) 55 - ECM/PCM error A failure of any of the above components would result in a code. Check the fuel pump relay and your under hood fuse block (Pin A3 GRY Wire) which is the fuel pump motor feed. As you have had some success when priming the TB... a bad fuel pump wiring connection or unseated fuel pump relay is suspect. Let us know know how you make out...

1994 GMC Sierra no crank issue. I have replaced ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter and solenoid, currently have starter wired to crank with direct wire from starter. All fiseable links look good. All fuses look good. The key worked like a charm then stopped no intermittent failure just tried to go to work and no go. I've been all under the dash everything has continuity. Also radio dome lights and work lights are all out. Replaced headlight switch. Other than that it runs like a top I drive it every day but it would be nice to crank up without popping the hood. Any help would be appreciated

Did u get it fixed similar problem here too

Jackdo, After I put a little gas down the throttle body I can drive it all day. It is just not producing fuel while it is cranking over.

Hello Cliff, What do you see with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the TBI fuel inlet line with the ignition on? While cranking?

The starter relate get loose in the positive wire and the connection in top of the steering wheel get loose to

I have a 20 14 Chevy Silverado you can get it in the morning and try to start it you do it about 4 times it's like that battery dEads hit a 5 time and it will start right up

Hello Bigphilip, When you try to start the truck does the motor crank over and not start...or does the motor not crank over at all? There are different solutions for these two types of a no start condition. If the motor cranks over but the engine will not fire you need to check for ignition spark and fuel line pressure while cranking the engine over. If nothing happens when you turn the key...make sure all battery and starter motor connections are clean and tight. If you have a standard transmission that requires the clutch pedal to be depressed to start the engine check the safety switch located above the clutch pedal and also the ignition switch located on the steering column.

I have 98 MC Sierra that will not crank sometimes actually ore then others. It will crank seem like it start to run then shuts off. Has done this for more then a year had to buy a beater cause I couldn't rely on it. I have left it at shops and no luck. Still making payments on it someone please shed some light.

Hello Guru9TDR4, When you say that sometimes your Sierra will crank over and starts then quits, and other times it will not crank over...does that mean nothing happens sometimes? ...no sounds..no starter noises...just turn the key and nothing happens? Does your vehicle have an automatic transmission or is it a standard? The standard transmission has a clutch safety switch to prevent the vehicle starting in gear...which describes your problem. You may also be experiencing a starter relay fault or a bad wiring connection fault or an ignition switch (located on the steering column, not in the column head.) fault. As your problem is known as an intermittent failure you will have to check all of the above noted potential causes. Start with checking your battery connections..clean and tight. Check for voltage at the starter motor while attempting to crank the engine over...you will need an assistance to turn the key while you measure for 12 volts. If you have no voltage at the starter , move to the relay and then to the ignition switch and safety switch. Let us know how your making out.

First, you must determine why it won't start. Fuel plus spark equals start. if it will not start it is because one of those are missing from the equation. Find out which one it is. If it is not getting fuel then check fuel pump fuse,fuel filter, and fuel pressure. If it is not getting spark check all fuses dealing with ignition and if they are good then inspect the distributor cap and rotor,have ignition module tested/check ignition coil(right in front of distributor), and if they are good then it is most likely the pick up coil in the distributor. You can pull the distributor and change it, or just change the whole distributor as they are pretty affordable for this year model.

I have a 97 Chevy 1500. First crank starts right up. When I kill it and try again nothing. Just a long turnover. Come out hours later it starts back up. I'll kill it again and try to crank and get nothing. It's a routine

Any help???

Found a crack in the distributor on mine. Moisture retained inside it long after a rain. Replaced and no prob.

Hello Michael... I had a 1984 GMC Sierra 1500 with an intermittent "Cranks over no start condition" very similar to @jbird163. The intermittent no start component failure was traced to the ignition control module located in the base of the distributor (WHEN THE ENGINE HEATS UP THE MODULE IN THE DISTRIBUTOR IT FAILS TO START THE VEHICLE) . Yes this electronic module can provide intermittent operation. To test for this failure without throwing new parts at your vehicle you need to perform several tests. Find the procedure here: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1 Once you eliminate fuel delivery, ignition coil, distributor cap, leads, plugs and pick up coil you are left with the ignition module as the culprit. You cannot test the module directly but only through a process of elimination of the ignition system components. PS: If your vehicle has not had a basic ignition system tune up in a long while check the resistance of the HEI ignition leads. Very high spark plug wire resistance from worn out leads can stress the ignition module to a point of failure. Always be sure when testing for spark that it has someplace to go...an HEI spark plug tester is preferable to trying to jump a spark across a wide gap.

1998 GMC K2500 5.7, 178,000 miles, uses no oil, truck in excellent shape and well maintained. Intermittent engine die while driving after several hundred miles and would not start (always on weekend/holiday ). Would then start next day. After replacing fuel pump & filter & spending a couple thousand dollars on towing & repair shops (always happens away from home), GM dealer/shop said problem was crankshaft position sensor. Had them replace it and coil. Am 400 miles from home. Hope it’s fisee. Will see.

I think it is the ignition switch on top of steering column behind dash on top of steering column. it is operated by the ignition switch rod that goes down to the switch. replace the switch.

Hello Frogfeet, " Intermittent engine die while driving after several hundred miles and would not start (always on weekend/holiday )." Are you saying that your vehicles engine stops running while your driving it? OR your vehicle will not restart after driving it a long distance? If it is a restart issue...does the engine crank over? This is known as a crank no start condition...or does the starter fail to engage at all?

Hi, Jackdo, Well, i’d be driving, say 70mph, and the engine would stumble (tach go to zero), and engine would catch back up and run smoothly for 2-5 minutes, then stumble and catch up again. It would repeat this for up to 4 or 5 times, then just die. I’d pull off the side of the road, and it would turn over readily but not start. Call tow truck, load her up, and take it to the nearest town. The next day, put the key in the ignition, turn to “start”, and it would fire right up. Maybe it was just tired, wanted a ride, and then to rest overnight Seriously, it didn’t seem to be weather related (rain, temp, etc), engine temp related, oil pressure (all good), or miles driven (drove it about 500 miles at a stretch a couple of times with no problem, then after about 100 miles, it died). Purely random. I’ve driven it about 400 miles at a stretch since replacing the crankshaft position sensor and coil with no problem. I’m considering going ahead annd replacing the camshaft position sensor, too, preemptively. (Hopefully and prayerfully it’s fixed!). I’ll post again if I have anymore problems.

Hello Frogfeet..gotta loath intermittent problems...I have experienced intermittent "crank no start" conditions...that were traced back to the ignition module (see above posts) but that fault did not cause the vehicle to stop running...when it did start, it ran until I shut it down. I have experienced "engine cut out" on GM vehicles that was traced to a loose ignition switch connection. I have also experienced poor ground connections issues which cause all kinds of weird anomalies. If your vehicle died while driving down the road and you pulled over and just left it sitting there, and returned some time later and it started...I would not suspect that poor contacts in the ignition switch were at fault. If the vehicle was towed...bouncing down the road and running over the odd pot hole..this may produce enough of a jarring effect to restore contact within the switch. If you have a intermittent ground fault (poor connections from battery (-) to engine block or battery (-) to body or poor ignition switch ground) ... this could cause the engine to die in mid stream and start fine after (under hood) loose contact points cooled down (metals expand as they warm up and contract as they cool). When sensors or solenoids fail... they are kaput and the issues that their failures cause, are generally not intermittent ones. So first place to start...Do you see a SES (Service Engine Soon) indicator on your dash display? If you see that SES illuminated...jumper your OBD I and count the flashes to determine the code number (Google for this procedure, if this is new to you) Clean and Check all under hood ground connections (Battery to block / battery to body and every "Black lead" and UN-coated ground strap you can find. Don't forget the ignition switch ground. Follow the link below for electrical schematics http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/ (Click the "Wiring Diagrams") tab. Enter in your model information in the drop down fields. For the "System Field" select "Electrical Distribution" For the "Sub System" field select "Ground Distribution" Last but not least....a worn or gummed up distributor could cause timing issues after warm up.

I've got a 1979 gmc Sierra Grande 1500 34k miles... had it about 2 months maybe got a tune up and it's been doing just fine... recently it's started making a rough noise when starting so reset key and try again a few times it'll start... Well today after driving a few miles I stopped at Wal-Mart about 20 minutes and it made that noise which died out to a sort of whirring and then nothing... indicator lights went out as did the inside cab light... wait a minute try again the lights come on but nothing else and then the lights go off... Did this several times same results... tried to jump it and same thing.. lights come on at first then go off and no turn over no noise and lights go off turn key again lights still not on.. wait again lights come on but nothing else happens then they go off again... read through some of the above issues and it sounds similar except the rough noise I had been having and lights on and off ... I'm guessing (with almost no mechanical knowledge) that it's a similar ignition issue or electrical. Key looks worn... any thoughts? Thanks

Craig, sometimes it’s best to bite the bullet and take the vehicle to a reputable shop, particularly when a vehicle has as many problems as yours and you don’t have the mechanical knowledge/experience. Trial and error parts replacement can get expensive & be frustrating to say the least, plus it may not/probably won’t fix the problems. At least you could get them to run the diagnostics (that will cost you; get an estimate up front) and they can tell you what needs to be done.

Frog the shop I go to checks things out and let's me know the cost before doing the work... what I've just discovered is the lights on.. tap the brake they go off... hold the door jamb light button for a bit and the light comes back on... I have no idea how that relates to the noise it's been making and whatnot but I'll find out Monday morning. This shop has a good reputation. I was hoping for an idea of what could be causing this and if maybe I could fix it myself. But it'll get sorted out soon. Or i may end up selling it if it turns out to be a lemon.

You’re a smart man, Craig. I can’t remember if you said your transmission is a manual. If so, that could be the source of some of your noise. There are some transmission tricks - which I won’t go into - that some unscrupulous people use to literally get a vehicle off the lot and into someone else’s hands. As for the electrical problems, as Jackdo mentioned to me, many times they can be tied to bad connections - particularly a ground, but these can be the mischief to find. Good luck.

Thanks for your feedback, Jackdo. I might add the “check engine” light is not coming on and I haven’t had my code reader with me during the no start episodes either (who carries their tool shop cross-country?). Anyway, after the last episode and before replacing the crankshaft position sensor and coil, I’d disconnected/reconnected the battery to see if that would reset the electronics and it would start (it didn’t). Anyway, that would have wiped out any codes to my knowledge. I think i’m Going to go ahead and replace the distributor with an MSD unit, the camshaft position sensor (it may come with the distributor), as well as the ignition control module. Plug wires are relatively new as are the plugs. Ignition switch/key seem fine. All electrical connections, hot and ground, appear fine. Hopefully this will have all the “expendables” replaced/upgraded. Will post again if I have more trouble. I might add that I frequently get comments like “it doesn’t look that old” and “it’s really in good shape. Want to sell it?” I special ordered it and bought it new, keeping detailed records -including everytime gasoline has been added, the mileage, amount of gasoline, octane, and cost- as well as maintenance/repair records.

I didn't get it off a lot but the person I bought it from was apparently being shady about sharing information. First by lying about how he got it and later I found out he held Back some other information... But all I can figure that could be relevant to the issues I'm having is that the vehicle sat for long periods of time and likely didn't receive much of the maintenance it should have had. I've gone thru 2 motorcycles That sat for long periods and I know that alone can lead to a long list of headaches and ticking timebombs that some mechanics won't even check until it actually becomes a problem. And it is an automatic transmission 4x4.

No worries Frogfeet....intermittent problems are never simple to diagnose until the failure becomes evident by a complete failure of problem area...post again if need be and post again if you source out any future issues should the same failure happen again. Craig..the "whirring" noise your hearing is the starter motor solenoid gear spinning without engaging the automatic transmissions flex plate (Flex Plate - a toothed drive gear attached to the automatic transmissions torque converter that spins the engine over to start the motor.) The electrical anomalies (lights no power) are most likely an associated short circuit within the starter motor and should disappear after your starter motor is replaced.

Thanks jackdo. What if it was a rough maybe grinding really scrappy sound? That's what it was before it started to whirr and the whirring occurred just right before it did the lights and no noise at all thing... Any chance an oversized battery could cause problems? This all started when I left the lights on and killed my last battery a few weeks ago. When I tried jumping that one was the first time I heard that horrid noise.. which also turned out to be a broken modulator bolt ... So yeah there's a lot of stuff going wrong here at once.. Well more or less at once

They told me its the starter and flex plate like jackdo said and a ground is shorted because of the starter solenoid. They also said they'd have to pull the transmission to work on it.. does that sound right for a 79 GMC Sierra 1500?

Hi Craig, The flex plate has geared teeth on it and they do wear out. Unfortunately the torque converter and flex plate are located in the transmissions bell housing so the transmission does have to come off to replace the flex plate. Get a quote and look at the trucks value in decent running order...if you can replace your truck for less than the repair costs...you have to decide if its worth keeping it. (Any used vehicle could also require a future investment to ensure reliable operation.)

They changed the flex plate and starter and cleaned some wire terminals.. all good now and fires right up like a brand new vehicle. I appreciate the info guys! Let's me know this shop is honest.

Your very welcome Craig...always nice to have a positive outcome and even better to find a honest shop that provides good customer service and speedy repairs....looks like you and your truck are back on the road again.

Great as it turns out I do need a new or rebuilt transmission. Any input on what that should run for a '79 chevy/GMC 350 automatic 4x4. Waiting on an answer from the shop since they have to outsource a rebuild.

Hello Craig, did your repair shop reassemble your truck and test drive it to discover your tranny problem or did you pick up the vehicle and discover something was amiss? There are literally dozens of different part numbers for 350 transmissions and there are companies that have rebuilds on the shelf that match your transmissions part number or are matched to your vehicles VIN number. I've seen these units offered from anywhere from 1500.00 to 3,000.00 dollars dependent on the core rebate, torque converter selection, area and country. The costs may exceed the value of your truck so you will have to decide if its worth repairing.

Sorry I forgot to ask..what's happening with the transmission? Slipping? failing to select individual gears, not hooking up at all?

I'm starting to wonder honestly. After I had the starter and flex plate replaced it started pouring oil.. they said a bad seal.. Then when I picked it up fafter that they said the transmission was going out.. sometimes it won't go into gear when using the selector lever and sometimes it'll be driving fine but hangs up when changing gears and/or will just seem to not hook up at all and I have to pull over and fiddle with the lever and eventually it'll go into gear but has progressively gotten worse. Now it's over heating and I just topped up the coolant but it'll overheat just sitting idling for 10 minutes. Oil pressure is ok but apparently still leaking oil (which I know isnt the transmission and they said the engine is fine) They said they don't know where to get a transmission for it. I do not the first time I took it to them I pointed out a few things I knew needed to be fixed and said to check all seals and gaskets which obviously they didn't do and I don't want to throw around accusations but I'm starting to wonder if they're just counting on me continuously taking it back to work not things that could've already been taken care of. By now I could've possible already paid to have a new transmission and engine put in it. If I pay this 2k to rebuild transmission that will have me about 6k since I first brought it to them for the check/tune up and new tires. I'm getting impatient and losing faith.

Okay Craig...I understand your predicament...Firstly the transmissions problems sound very much like a lack of transmission fluid..was it always leaking? Secondly the engine oil leak should be easy for you to trace yourself,,,place a piece of fresh cardboard under the truck when you park it...and without moving the cardboard check it the next morning to roughly identify where the leak is. Then you can get a trouble light and trace the leak back to it's source. Any engine gasket replacement will not be overly costly excepting head gasket failure and rear or front crankshaft seals...head gasket failure will usually contaminate the engine oil in the oil pan with coolant...giving the engine oil a milky colour. If you see any red colored fluid on your cardboard...its transmission fluid...if you only see engine oil then you now know how to trace that back to source...check you oil dip stick to see if you have any coolant contaminating your oil...indicates a blown head gasket. It is pretty standard procedure to replace the rear main crank seal on the engine anytime the transmission is removed, so if the area under the bell housing is where you trace your oil leak to, its most likely the rear crankshaft seal located behind the flex plate. Your engine overheating issues could be a sacked water pump (you should see coolant leaking from the front of the pump drain hole.) Mal adjusted ignition timing (radically advanced) leaking or clogged radiator, leaking rad hoses (supply or return) contaminated oil (blown head gasket) or a failed fan clutch that is not spinning faster as RPM's increase. Check your transmission fluid level while the truck is sitting on a level surface, in park, warmed up and engine running...careful not to overfill the transmission...follow the marks on the transmission dip stick. Let us know how you make out.

I very much appreciate that information. I am now even more suspicious that they've let some things go knowing I'll have to bring it back and pay more money. Another thing I have to ask.. what should a new starter for a chevy/gmc 1500 cost?

Also it was leaking transmission fluid when I first got it and they replaced the seals/gaskets and it hasn't leaked any since. As far as I can tell the only thing leaking is oil. And that only seemed to happen after they replaced the flex plate which required removal of transmission... And yes it was the crankshaft seal. That's what I had JUST taken it back fo immediately after they pulled the tranny to replace flex plate. Get it back and shifting is worse.. transmission fluid looks ok. Oil level is fine and oil pressure gauge is between 25-50psi.

Hi Craig...Cost of a starter motor in my neck of the woods (Canada) is: AC Delco - (Re-manufactured 134.00) (New - 172.00) I would charge 1 hr labour and misc materials for a labour total of 92.00 dollars..all in Canadian funds of course. As far as the transmission going south right after your repair work was done?....for all I know a used sacked one from a previous re & re was installed in your truck or it could just be a coincidence???? As far as the rear seal...I always replace them as a normal procedure to avoid having a customer experiencing issues with it sooner or later...small part, little cost, easy to do when the transmission, torque converter and flex plate is off and good customer service.

I've had these problems with an older GMC. The first solution is to jiggle the key and its steering column receptacle, as much as needed! really! I believe the more permanent solution is there's a small electrical connection just to the left of the ignition key receptacle under the top cover of the steering wheel which I think has four wires. It's tied into the security system. That connection may be loose or corroded, and causing your problem. Sometimes problems are smaller than they appear to be. Happy hunting Craig, and I hope this is helpful. Charles

I'm having the same problem that you're talking about with your truck wants to turn over but it won't but then it will and then if you turn it off it doesn't want to crank up and wait for a few minutes and then crank up what's up with that and mine's a GMC 2002 Yukon XL 1500

CHECK THE GROUND ON YOUR FUEL INJECTORS, ITS A TERRIBLE DESIGN, THERE ARE ONLY EVER 3 THING THAT CAUSE THESE TRUCKS NOT TO START, THAT GROUND WIRE, BAD FUEL PUMP, OR IGNITION MODULE.

I live in Northern California if it makes a difference but did you ever find out what it wa? I've changed everything in my truck and it started out by just having a little miss when I'm driving to eventually getting worse and worse and worse. But then it got to where it revs up just fine in park or nutral but in drive or reverse it would run terrible. And at the same time I was changing out old parts for new parts little at a time. So I don't know why everything got worse as time went on.now I can't get it to start at all. And I know engine is still good. 154,654 miles on it....

Hello BigRedSub...You haven't listed what parts were replaced or the year/make/model and engine option so I guess we'll start with the basics. When your truck starts and idles okay but runs poorly under load 1-Check for ECM fault codes. If no codes are present test your engines compression, fuel pump pressure and basic tune up components: Spark plugs / air filter ignition leads / distributor cap / EGR valve / idle air solenoid and if your vehicle is throttle body equipped check your injectors by looking into the top of the throttle body for a even spray of fuel while increasing the engine RPM. Driveability issues will usually be corrected when the engine is receiving its basic needs...even compression, good fuel pump pressure, clean fuel filter, restriction free exhaust system and .. a good spark supplied to all cylinders.

Brand new starer it like one cool down it start .

I’ve been having the same issues on my 99 gmc, once or twice a month and it starts great the rest of the time, no one can find the issue

I don’t know the year GM started installing them, but if the engine stops, will turn over, but won’t crank, it could be the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. My 1998 GMC K2500, 5.7 liter had that problem. After complete tuneup, replacing fuel pump and filter, being stranded on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere several times, paying a couple thousand in towing charges, a technician at the GM dealership in Wichita Falls, Texas chased the intermittent problem down to a faulty crankshaft position sensor. Since he replaced it and the ignition coil some six months ago, no more problem.

Help! I have a 2015 GMC Sierra that will not start. Let someone jump his car,and he unhooked the cables and metal touched end of cables,when they were still hooked to my batt. Trucked died and I've tried everything? What could it be?

Hello BZHFM, I need a few details from you to locate the correct electrical schematic for your vehicle. Is your truck a 1500, .2500, or a 3500 series? with a 4.3L - 5.3L or 6.2L engine? Standard transmission or Automatic? Does your vehicle have a auxiliary battery (two batteries) under the hood? Does your vehicle try to start (engine turns over) or is everything completely dead when you turn the key to start? Do your headlights come on when you turn them on? Shorting the battery by accidentally touching positive and negative together could ruin the battery or a fuse in the Fuse Block so if your headlights or horn do not work...the fuse block is the first place to check..

We just had a hard tine starting a 1998 GMC SIERRA. AN awesome mechanic passerby stopped to help... Banged on the gas tank under the truck and got ot started after hours of us trying to figure it out. Something to do with the fuel line.

3 years truck not wanting to start but only happens 5 to 10% all of the year, I found that different methods to help it start one is turning the key on moving gear shift up and down to three times starts right up. starter seems to work perfectly fine battery is good and only in the summertime has been the hardest time to get it to start, reach with a screwdriver to the solenoid and cross jump the positive to the ignition bolts with the key on the on position and the truck starts right up problem goes away 4 months. Any mechanic event look at it has no direct answer but to start replacing different parts, the older cars you could open the solenoid and there is a plunger what's a metal washer inside I believe it's made out of brass we used to flip that over and put it back together and it work like a brand new starter, the large round washer looks my cat has a lot of marks on one side from contacting the voltage once flipped over it's like on the brand new side works fine. I am not attempted to see if I can take to solenoid apart yet and the reason why I haven't replaced the ceiling light is they want close to the same price for the solenoid as the starter I will not do any of this until I am positive I know what it is as long as I can keep starting it this is the one I will keep doing until someone has 100% sure answer, today I am commenting because my neighbor down the street is having a very similar problem all I have is this giving him a lot more harder of a Time any put a brand new battery in now it just hums won't start and I'm about to tell him about you can hit the starter with a hammer or rubber mallet three or four times firm and the truck will start up anyone have any idea something I'm not seeing or hearing about please feel free to answer

GunBOW26 What year,make, model is your truck? What engine option does it have and is it a standard or automatic? If your vehicle successfully starts after moving the gear shift around it could be as simple as a neutral safety switch (connector or unit) or a clutch safety switch which is used to prevent standard shift transmissions from stating while in gear.

The ground wire to the fuel pump when out I put a new ground wire in to the battery to the fuel pump ground a the truck started up that ground wire runs to the ECM it on a 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 all model will have the same problem

Hello, I have read thru all of the comments trying to pinpoint my problem. I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L Automatic 4x4. Bought it two years ago from a good friend (single owner) who took very good care of the truck. It only had 96K @ 20 years old. Truck has run flawlessly until today. I usually drive it several times a week and use it for skiing and motorcycle riding. Today I drove to get some fuel about 20 min from my house. After filling up I went to start up the truck and the only thing I got was a clicking buzzing sound as the dash lights tried to come on. I tried twice with same results. I was at a gas station so started asking for a jump thinking I had a bad battery. Meantime I opened the fuse box up under the hood and looked for any ignition/starting related fuses that may have blown. None found (didn't pull them all). Got back in the truck and tried again. Now truck makes a distinct buzzing sound of a starter trying to start with a low battery and my dash lights work. Got a guy with jumpers. Hooked it up, let it run a few minutes. Same thing..buzzing sound but no engine turn over. I am blocking a lane at the gas station, so I put it in neutral and coasted backwards into a parking stall to call my wife. I tried to start once again, now it turned over. Gave it another shot and it started, but it won't idle. I have to keep the rpm's up or it will die. I make a bee line home park in my driveway and turn it off. I start it two more times, but on the third attempt I was back to buzzing and no start. I fiddled around "wiggling" with the column shifter while attempting to start it again and it began to turn over. I was able to get it started, but it won't idle. The oil pressure and volts are normal. I did have a "service engine soon" light on my dash. I came back out after it cooled off to try again and it turned over, but died right away. After the third attempt and a little throttle I was able to keep it running. If I let up on the throttle it dies. I let it run for 5 to 10 min while I hooked and OBD2 ( Autel Autolink AL519) up and there were no codes. It did give me a yellow warning meaning " A pending DTC is present and/or some of the vehicles emission monitors have not run their diagnostic testing" Also the service engine soon light was gone. Well that's were I am at now. Can't drive it because I don't want to get stranded, but not sure where to start. Starter...ignition switch....column shifter....gounding issues....throttle position sensor. Trying to sort this out. Like I said truck ran flawlessly until today. I haven't turned a screw yet. Thought I would hit site up first. Thanks for you help.

Also on my last run of the 01' Chevy it now ran without me adding throttle to keep it running and was idling at around 500 rpms. I turned it off and started it two more times and it ran and started fine.....scratching my head

The ground wire to the fuel pump when out I put a new ground wire in to the battery to the fuel pump ground a the truck started up that ground wire runs to the ECM it on a 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 all model will have the same problem need to fix all ground wire on the truck same problem it fix my truck

I had this problem with an 1988 chevy blazer 4.3ltr. This is a distributor vehicle with that said in the distributor there is another coil secondary coil that costs about 10 dollars. You have to remove the distributor and take it apart to change it, it will crank when it's cold but when it warms up the copper coil expands and want make contact in till it cools down and shrinks. I broke mine trying to get the gear off, the carbon buildup was to much so had to buy new distributor they don't cost that much hope this helped.

Hey I have a 2015 GMC Seirra with a 6.0L gas engine. Only 41000 miles on it and last week I had the problem where it would crank but wouldn’t start. Tried turning the keys twice but wouldn’t start. The third attempt it fired right up no problem. Drove it for a week and this morning it would crank but wouldn’t start at all. Any ideas???

In regards to my crank, no start issue from 4 days ago. I decided to start with the simple things first. My battery is the side screw terminals with no visible signs of corrosion. I pulled the battery and found the positive terminal inside the threads was corroded and rusted. You would never know this unless you removed the positive and negative battery connections. So I took my battery in to have it tested and they said it was bad. I was a little suspicious because it didn't seem that weak when it did crank, but oh well $170 later I have a new battery installed and clean battery terminal and connections. I hope this solves my issues.

Hello Wookie52...I got in on your conversation a little late but the battery is the heart of the beast..so to speak.. and is a primary suspect and starting point when trouble shooting (No Crank or Crank No Start) issues. A battery can show 12 - 14 volts but fail a load test and numerous other issues can cause either symptom. Hope your new battery fixes your problem and let us know if it did.

Hello GMCNICK...Intermittent failures or a "History Code" are a little more difficult to troubleshoot. You have to test while the failure is present. Do you see a "Check Engine" light? Checking for fault codes is always a good starting point. Some parts stores perform a free OBDII diagnostic scan) If you have no codes, start by performing a thorough under hood visual inspection looking for loose wiring harness connections, damaged wiring, clean and tight battery connections, secure vacuum lines, clean and secure ground connections. If your engine cranks over and refuses to start check for ignition spark (A tester is best for HEI ignitions) Test the fuel pump pressure and associated relays and fuses. These steps should point you in the right direction.

I recently had to change the fuel pop in my GMC 2500 Sierra 2002 The fuse in the cigaret Lighter spot was blown was unable to hook up and diagnostic I had been put a new fuse in got my diagnostic however nothing pad came up Fuel pump replaced your filter replaced had the battery checked Alternator checks and story are checked all was good Every time I would go to start it all you would hear is click click click click click click I would give up come out a few hours later and it would start right up Make a long story short I decided to pull that fuse that controls the cigaret lighter . Presto it starts

I have a 1990 GMC half ton. It has a 350 engine and a throttle body carb. Sometimes it st arts right up and runs great. Sometimes it cranks but wont start but can be started with starting fluid. Must be a fuel problem, right? Sometimes it cranks but wont start even with starting fluid. Spark problem right? thinking the distributer so I change cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Same problem. making me crazy....I love the truck when it runs..what is going on?

i have a 2012 gmc sierra and i was driving down the road and it just slowed down and just stopped then i couldnt get it to start back up like it wouldnt turn over.

I have 1995 gmc 5.7L. It starts fine but once I go to put it in gear it stalls and before resetting the key i try it again and it just roles over. Then i turn key back for 5-10 seconds and it starts right up. Even when is warm it does it but not all the time. It happened 4 times yesterday. I drive for a bit then shut it off, then not long after go again and as soon as I put it in gear it stalls. Also stalled a couple times driving down the road. It's like something has to be reset because once it stalls and I start it back up it works mint till I shut it off again. Anyone have any answers for me?

Check the ignition control module and its connector. I just fixed mine with same problem..

I haven't checked it yet but with yours when it was running and you hit the signal light did it kill all power?

I don't know about yall but mine running me hot. Truck was stolen, when I got it back it wouldn't stay running. Start up no problem, run for about 20 min then die. Sit for about 10 min start right up. Replaced fuel pump and now it dies faster and sometimes won't run. Replace cam sensor and cranks to lone it should start then stop cranking all together, wth

Be sure to check the fuel pump relay. Mine had intermittent crank but no start then the intermittent problem became 100%. Fuel pump relay was the problem. . New relay and all seems well BUT I am noticing the relay seems to be hot. Fuel pump draws 11 amp. may be at limit of relay. Looking for higher amp rated relay.

I found if I take my relay out and put it back in it usually starts up sometimes I have to pull it out a couple times 99 5.3 gmc

I have a 1999 GMC Suburban and I have had her 3 years and about a year ago, I went to the gas station with one of my son's and then we came home. Then it was time to pick up my oldest from the high school and it's dead and won't start (but it was running just fine 30 minutes prior) popped the hood. My keys happened to still be in the ignition and I brushed up against the positive batter cable and heard the door start dinging with power again but then I would turn key and click all power cuts off. It did start a few tries later but did it again later that night. My friend came over and messed with the terminals and cleaning the wires that go into the terminals with a brush and that seemed to temporarily fix the issue but after that my check engine light (which was already on) would start flashing at me when I hit 30 + mph and she was running rougher than she did previously. Now 9 months later, having issues starting her so I replaced the battery and also bought new terminals and it had power now but didn't want to start. Took my friend's husband a lot of tries to get it to start, but it would try to start. He says I needed new spark plugs because I had never changed them so changed those out and she starts for a little bit and then didn't want to start and that's been a few weeks now but this past week, now when I put key in I can hear door dinging, lights come on...but turn key and one click and it's completely shuts off all power again. But if I go removed battery cable and the put it back, power but as soon as I turn that key, cut power. I would really like to figure this out....

I haven’t seen any response addressing the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. These can work intermittently and cause your vehicle to die/not start/run sometimes, particularly if the engine will turn over but not start. Remember to check for a spark at the spark plugs using a Phillips head screw driver. Also, replace the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, & rotor as well as fuel filter (relatively cheap plus it’s normal maintenance) before dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump.

Turns out it was the ignition control module in the distributor.