my honda civic cuts off when I give it gas, it idles and starts just fine but when i put it in gear and give it gas it cuts off

I will tell the tech. tomorrow he has already replaced the distributor,,,whole thingy and the fuel filter, and the fuel tube nut & adapter and the throttle position censor now i will suggest that...... :}

u check the fuel pump homie

yep my tech changed the distributor , fuel filter, fuel tube nut & adapter and something called a throttle position censor...help ..so far as of today they called the factory to see what else it could be it has been in the shop since last thursday morning...

so what exactly is it doing

well it first stated last monday after i got gas at shell as always...it stopped twice before i could get out of the gas station,,but started and sputter so i floored it for a min. and it drove fine. On tuesday it drove fine, wednesday spit and popped and on thursday after going 65 on the freeway when i got off the exit and tried to excelerate it started losing steam and slowed down by itself until it stopped on the side of the road..so i call a friend and it set there for about 30min and started but was running ruff it went 1 block and cut off...got it to start again and drove it 2 miles and parked it. called a tow because the mechanic thought it might be the motor and did not want to do further damage and it has been with them since thursday... scratching their heads... they say it wil start and idle but if they give it a little gas it just cuts off.

is it carburetated or throttlebody and also look into a pcv valve

well the technician took off the carburator and parts and sent them back and will be trying a fuel pump/filter, and stuff...i am tired and need my car

get a new mechanic! he's running up your bill. i would check to see if theres a vacuum line disconnected or has a hole in it. also you mentioned they replaced the distributor. did they check the spark plug wires or spark plugs? last but not least, did they check the air filter?

great answer..they will have it 1 week 2morrow...still nothing

your mass airflow sensonr may be dirty/blocked, clean the wire in it lightly with a q-tip

thank yall so much...i will call and suggest this also..i have been calling them at least twice a day hope they are listening...if not then it is past time to go and get my car

id be curious to see how much they're going to charge you

yeah sounds like you should check your plugs and wires first. then if that doesn't work then taking your plugs out after runnin your car at high throttle and pull out a plug to see if it is soaked in gas if so you might want to check your fuel pressure regulator cause if your plugs and wires and distributor are all good or new then that means that you're getting enough spark but too much fuel so check your fpr and your maf to see if they are clean and functional

whewwwwww....that thought gives me chills...they are still trying to figure it out...I must go get my car tomorrow I may have to push it away.....

thank you I will suggest that tomorrow before I take it away...

good luck and keep us posted

hi, please update and let us know what happened with your car. i'm having the same problem and would love to know what caused your issue and how your resolved the problem. thanks!

i have a sort of smilar problem... car starts and idles fine, the problem begins when I throw in on 5th gear reaching highways speeds. im going about 60 mph and the gas all suddent cuts off but engine is still running, i let loose of gas and pump it again and i have to drive it for a while like that until problem stops. I have yet to check spark plugs and wires.,. any other suggestions on what the problem might be? - Oscar

i had the same problem where it idles fine but when you give it gas it bogs or even die... what i did was this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdpP4wxBvpA&feature=player_detailpage#t=69s took it for a drive and ran perfect im thinking the fuel line had air in it from running it low on gas.

I kno this things old.but my 93.civic does like the same stuff it idles fine til I hit the gas sumtimes itll sit parked runnin fine for ten mins other times I run it 5 mins it makes a noise like its missin or sumthin I cant even drive it down the road without it acting up ive changed distributor and fuel filter I do run it way below E alot could that have anything to. Do with it..it still acts up when I fill the tank im so lost ive had my car for 7 years its ran fine ive never had any problems like this I really need help cuz everyone whos lookd at it I have a list of what everyones told me..please help

for everyone suggesting a mass air flow sensor this civic does not have one. civic lover do you have any check engine codes? it may be a long shot but try the filter attached to your fuel pump just pull it and look

sorry late response. My bf has been workin on it since 8am its now 12:35am..an we thought it was fixed but it wasnt. He started it up this morning it was 45 out he drove it askd if i got it fixd cuz it ran like it nvr had problems. It warmed up (the motor) an it idles fine u put in drive hit gas it sputters acts like its gonna die. Sumtimes it dies out an it sounds like abuncha air comin thru my air filter an it goes poof an it looks,like smoke comin outta,my filter. No check engine light. Sumone did code on it an came bak.ignighter in distributor we changed ran fine allllll day til i came home that evening its acted up since an thats the last time ive drove it around town afraid it wont start i cant afford a tow lol. Im honestly so lost at this point im starting to lean towards maybe computer? My dad said maybe main relay ..it clicks on just about everytime its missed clicks a couple times. Im just tired of googling my problem an gettin nowhere cant afford to take to a shop lol. Thanks for replying sorry so long of reply. Tried to give as much info as i can. We did rent a tester thing for the fuel pump an my bf said its good. Im gonna run that filter to fuel pump by him an see..hes really hating my car right now

ok do you still get the code for ignighter? if no take the coil out and look at the sides there may be hot spots that when it gets hot it arches through to ground it out. so many things could cause this and it is very hard to even try and help when we cant look you know lol but the main relays go bad frequently specially in hot and cold weather. the solder on the board is usually the culprit. usually you getting smoke out the filter would be a back fire or bad valve(seating) etc make sure the timing hasnt jumped

My 91 civic dx turns off when I accelerate at the light 3 times already :( sucks

It could either a faulty relay, the one that regulates the fuel pump circuit. Could be a dirty fuel pump sock. Could be a fuel pump going bad. Could be bad gas. Could be a faulty ECU. Could be a faulty Fuel Pressure Sensor. It could be a clogged fuel filter. Could be a faulty ICM. It could also be a faulty distributor. Perhaps time to change out the spark plugs, rotor, and distributor cap. It can also be a faulty ECT. Factually it could be anyone of these, or a combination of...

Soundz like you have a blocked catalytic converter. Thats the worst case sinerio . Exhaust build up or exceeded exhuast fumes cant get throgh so giving it gas causes the exhaust to rush out but build up in the cads ...meaning very little e haust getting through. Take out the secondary o2 sensor the one leading into exhaust manifoldthen start for car if it runs and they sound loud but if you give it gas and it sounds like your PM's and car revs up more than likely Be your Cadillac converter

Dont leave your o2 sensor umplugged flames come through that hole so it can. Be dangerois to. Drive with o2 semsor taken out

My 95 honda civic had the same problem and i just change the fuel injecters and is working fine

there are a lot of things it could be if anything else doesn't work you should check your fuel lines your car doesn't need much gas to idle but if your fuel lines running from your tank to the carb are old or worn they can kink causing you to loose gas at some points it can get enough gas to run but it will kink I had the same problem so check the whole fuel line system

Clean your fuel injectors. Not with a gas tank adaptive but directly clean em

Anyone find out what is is my 89 is doing it now and I don't wanna sell it if it's an easy fix

I have a similar problem with my Honda 2000 with Vtec engine. I have replaced the distributor cap, plugs. Took it to the shop. He tried different things. Now he tells me timing chain is jumping. Says to replace it also need to change half block or swap with a different engine. I don't believe it. But other than spending 400 bucks replacing fuel pump, filter, and some electronics don't know how to identify problem.

Is there a way I can see if I am getting fuel to to injectors?

What does it mean when you have the sport light on and your car starts at secound gear.what is the problem? Need help!

I have a 96 Honda doing this same thing. So far I have replaced the Cat but it is still backfiring/stalling. My part was bad but replacement didn't fix the issues. Still tracking and looking for an answer. My plug wires are dry with no indication that they are failing. I am going to replace the fuel filter as I can do that myself tomorrow.

i have the same problem i turn my 2001honda civic it sounds quiet but when i put it in first gear n i rev it, it runs to a certain point den it dies n sputters so i put it to 2 nd gear samething it runs den it sputters until i reach 5 th gear wat i do hear is censors dat go on and off on the computer when i first start da car i just did a full single swap but didnt change da computer wat u guys think

check the wire harness ground, fuel filter, injectors could be bad, and fuel pump. depending on what yr check the crank position sensor..

I just recently started havin the same problem with my 1998 honda ciciv. it start fine, but when i put it on D to drive it start shaking;backfiring like bullet are been shot from the exhaust, and when i give is some gas it die- out.now here is where it get a little tricky, they are many variable or many thing that can cause the problem.but if you are just like me i know you don't mind paying or spending money to get your car running again, but the one problem you defenily don't wana have is spend too much money and not solving the problem.

Here is how to tackle or solve the problem minimixing the amount of money you spend.don't change the distributor cap or the rotor or the cable wire or the spark plug with out first checking weather it work or not. What you need to do first is turn the car on, when the car is on located the cable wire where they meet with the spark plug, pull one at a time. And everytime you pull a cable from the spark plug the engine should shake or turn off completely.if it turn off completely don't be alarm, just connect the cable and turn the car back on, the car should shake or turn off every time you unplug any cable. And if in all the wire was a shaking or the car turn off them it is not the dirtributor i repete it is not the distributor.

Next step is to locate the fuel injector, disconect the electric wire from the fuel injector one at a time, the car should shake or turn of completely on all injector, that is good new it mean that all your fuel injector are working,

Next step is to located the fuel filter, take the filter out and clean with clean gasoline.

Next step requare a little more experience with car, and that is to check the fuse box located next to the battery and the fuse box inside the car and check for any burn fuses but the one that you need to put expecial attention is the one that say fuel pump.

By now if there was a cable from the distributor that did not make the car shake or turn off, them you can change the distribution. By now if there was a fuel injectin that did not make the car shake or turn off you should have changed the fuel injection.By now if there was a burn fuse you should have replace the fuse. And if your lucky, the problem has been solve.as for me i have not been able to solve my honda's problem,and if you are like me and have not been able to figure out what the problem is i have bad new for you.the. next problem i'm about to tell you cost a whole lot more.

I'm having the same problem as 93civiclover is having. Changed fuel pump check ALL and changed out ALL fuses. Changed main relay new distributor. Car was down 2weeks then a friend notice tht a line was twisted he untwisted it n it turned on n ran a week. Then it start cutting off while I was driving I would pull over n start bck up and ride the rest of the day. It did tht twice a day everyday for a week until today. It cut off 3times n I started it n drove a block each time until the third time it didn't start and hasn't started SINCE. I'm a female and sum mechanics tell us anything. I was fixing things tht didn't need fixing. One guy said it was my timing and another told me tht was bull n untwisted the line n it started. Tht was then now it doesn't even warn me when it's Gonna cut off/stop/stall whatever it just loses power n dash lights turn on and CAR has stopped. No backfire car doesn't drive rough before it just cuts OFF like I'm not getting any gas. I can't afford the shop right now..Please HELP I NEED my car for WORK.

Went to check on car today still won't start but now someone mentioned my fuses. I checked every fuse under the dash and the main relay already has been changed even fuel pump was replaced. Also I hear the fuel pump activate when I turn the key once. Boy how I wish I could fix my own car... no money for the shop, but I'm so tempted to drop it off at the shop only thing no way to get it there Cause it will not start...lol.. Please HELP single mom,,it's scary catching public transportation at night to work graveyard.... Any advice can help. Or u can e-mail me at camisha003@yahoo.com

I had the same problem and after following all of these different methods, my problem was the mass air flow filter. I fixed that and the car Is running like it was before. I wasted money on a new distributor, fuel filter, spark plugs, and almost got new fuel injectors. Check YouTube on how to check your maf, most likely it's dirty or you need a new one.

If any of you guys have a 96 through 2000 civic it's mist likely the Crank Position Sensor that is causing all of your problems. I have a 98 civic and it would start fine and idle fine but wouldn't Rev pasted 2500 Rpm's and I swapped it out with a extra one I had laying around and it's running great again. So give it a try and see what happens good luck! (Hint: look for a good looking used one if possible one without any oil or anything on it if possible before you buy a new one there pretty pricey).

I have a 1994 Honda civic lx having the same problems and I have tried them all except air filter and relay switch and now they say I may need a carborator those are my suggestions if anyone has anything different please let me know thanks.

Had the same problem with my 91 integra keep cut out when driving. It was the ignition switch when at the junk yard got a ign switch it start right up an working fine, have to be lucky to get one with a key. This is to 93 civiclover. Hope this helps. An ur ign switch power most or all electrical on ur car.

Thank you all for ur help. It was the distributor. It ran fine after I bought a brand new one but now its sitting at a garage because the whole front end needs replaced my poor car can't catch a break. Thank u all again for ur answers:) it really was a number of options. Lol

So the distributor was your problem?? Haha easy fix. I had the exact problem on my 1991 honda crx. I had finally got it running after sitting for years new gas tank and filter and pump new oil change. I drove it to school for the first three weeks and it drove perfectly. Well one day i took my friend to school and i was on the highway going 60 and when i came to a light to get off the highway it was acting as though it was thirsty for gas when i had a full tank. Ever since then it has not been able to drive at all, mine is a manual so when you try to drive it ill be in first gear with the foot to the floor going 15 and it will not accelerate. I am in the process of taking the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter out and replacing it to see if it is the problem, if that does not resolve I may need to move to the distributor or the alternator, or even the O2 sensors, Have any ideas of what the main cause may be ????

Check the map sensor on the throttle body the pins on the connections might be loose or off place it might not be making connection I had a problem similar as soon as I drop in the gear spudered and started to lag and shut off but I'dk it's just my opinion cuz mine did something the same

OK thanks. I had thought it was the fuel pressure regulator and the O2 sensor but I replaced them both and it will not start regularly unless I give it gas and hold the gas pedal and if I let off it turns off. A person that works at O'Reilly who works on Honda's has been great help to me trying to get the car running. He says if it is still not cranking after I had replaced the O2/FPR, to see if the computer is bad, he had an extra computer he would let me borrow to see if mine is bad and if that doesnt solve the problem, my father says that the fuel injectors may be clogged up, which if so has caused to car not to reach over 3000 RPMs. If non of this resolves I am going to try the map sensor on the throttle body.

did out figure it out mines doing it

I had the same problem I ended up replacing the catalytic converter And the car runs like it was brand new I am back to getting 32 miles per gallon Up from 11 miles per gallon. My catalytic converter was so clogged that Nothing could pass through the gel anymore. I did all of the above before I figured out that it really was the catalytic converter Causing all the problems. I know it is an expensive fix But buying a new car is too.

Well I wish I had known that because I took out all fuel injectors and cleaned them and I put them back in and cranked the car and the car turned on and idled fine, but i drove it on the road and when I got back home in the drive way the engine caught on fire. Everything plastic in the engine is melted or gone. I didn't have an exhaust system system on there but it did have the catalytic converter on there but I think I accidentally sprayed carb cleaner and the converter was so hot it caught on fire. So now I'm without my Honda anymore until I can come up with the money to fix it entirely.

I have an 2000 honda accord so far they have changed injectors, fuel pump, spark plugs, cadylet converter, all gas sensors and the computer and main relay. When i crank it it cranks fine but when i give it gas it idles like the motor is drowning kinda and then turns off. I NEED HELP I know that is something small but don't know what it can be.

I have a honda dohc with sohc engine in 1.6i car starts everything but the thing is if i rev up it loose power then it back fire out of the trottel body so i put on a new feul pump clean up the trottel body doesn't back fire anymore but its still dnt wane rev up so just want to know what can the problem be.....

I have a 99 civic that was dying like that. So I changed the fuel pump relay right behind the dash lol. Just open your glove box and push in on the sides and it should fall down farther then you can see your relay mounted to the inside of the car.

Ok I have u a brain teaser. I have a 92 honda accord lx. Hard to start but after turning key off and on a couple of times it starts. Idles fine. Will idle all day for u but when I give it has suddenly it will bog down and suck a lot of air in the intake. U can ease in the gas and it will rev up. Put it in drive it lowers the rpm and shakes. Now mind u no miss fires and it don't die. Put it park in park and returns to normal. Prior to this ran fine daily driver. One day I went to start it up it started missing and running bad. I replaced spark plugs bc they needed to be changed and cap, button. Fuel filter was nasty so changed it. Tps was changed due to its rev up and down. All that done and still no change. Also check cat and o2 sensor. They are fine and working right.

Justintime28 you either have bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump check valve you basicly are priming the system by turning key on and off a few times

I had a honda civic 99 LX my problems is when we push pedal gas for half he going start die ??!!!! but i change head gasket and clean injector and change candle burning and spark cable great and change fuel pump And filter fuel and remove filter air O2 sensor lighting in check engine light what is the problems?!! TPS ?!!

I have a problem with me D16y8 it's a 1996 coup and I took off the Cruise control and since then my motor has bine acting up so the problem is that when I pass 2,000 or 3,500 rpms it's staying in the same plays and when I flore it it goes away what could it be need help asap

97 civic coupe school d16y7 Slow throttle= rpms rise fine Starts fine/ idles perfect Wot or 1/2 throttle under load (moving) car bogs down and dies if throttle is continuously depressed. Aproximately 3500rpm (no tach) New igniter New fuel filter New fuel pump and sock New fuel pressure regulator New map sensor New throttle position sensor New main power relay New coolant temp sensor New ngk plugs New wires/cap/rotor Good spark Good fuel pressure 110 compression all 4 cylinders Leak down test proved valves are seating well Donor ecu changed nothing All injectors have pulse and good spray patterns New battery Timing is set perfect Cat is see through New bank 1&2 o2 sensors No check engine light Next is new timing belt water pump & cps If issue persists... 06 accord J swap

Turned out to be my distributor. I assume cam position sensor to be specific. Threw every part known to go bad on hondas at it other than the dizzy because I had strong spark and no codes. Live and learn people. Fuel filter, main power relay, dizzy. That's the cost effective order to throw parts at a honda when it's got you stumped.

i have the same problem for the last 2 weeks have new altinater starter main realay and more yesterday i had a new ignion module in the distributer put in for 49.95 works great now,,,, it was dying while i was driving down the road even on the freeway and i would have to pull over turn it off then start it up and drive maybe a block to a half mile and it would dye again... it has better power shifts better runs way better now my car has 245000 miles on it and it was all because of this litter tiny part that took us 15 minutes to change

we figued it out too it would just dye driving anywhere worse when it warmed up and continued dying!!!! IT ENDED UP BEING IGNITION MNODULE UNDER THE HOOD TOOK 10 MINUTES TO CHANGE AND THEY GO OUT ON HONDAS WITH HIGH MILES. FIXED THE PROBLEMS AFTER I PUT OVER 400.00 AT A AUTOMOTIVE SHOP THAT DIDNT FIX THE PROBLEM MY BROTHER FIXED IT FOR LESS THEN 50.00 !!!!!!!!!!!

I am having issue with my civic 97. It runs fine with full fuel tank but as soon as I drive it for 100 kms, it starts jerking as if the car is running short of fuel though it still has lot of fuel in the tank. Meter is showing check light sign. Unfortunately, i could not find any expert mechanic and spent lot of money to get rid of this problem. So far, i have made following checks: Replaced fuel pump Cleaned fuel lines replaced fuel filter changed spark plugs replaced water temperature sensor but could not resolve the issue. today i have told the mechanic to check its exhaust system. fingers crossed. I would appreciate any expert opinion here. Many thanks

I had the exact same issue. Replaced the distributor and its run perfect ever since. Didnt even throw a light while the issue was happening. It was the can sensor in thr distributor. I then realized I had a bad tps to boot which made thr problem more confusing to diagnose. I threw parts at it and got lucky. Good luck.

Hi Josh, thanks for your response. Yesterday, my mechanic came up with another story according to which there is a circuit breakage between the injectors and the ecu (wiring issue). I have told him to fix this. Hopefully, my car will be on road by tomorrow. Thanks

It just dawned on me. Main power relay. Extremely common problem on all older hondas. Very cheap on eBay and very easy to replace. Its just behind the glove box. Its the relay that controls the injectors and fuel pump. A wiring issue is far less likely than a defective main power relay and it would explain your issues. Usually it also causes hard starts or intermittent no starts as well. Good luck.

Great idea. Let me check the said power rely as well. Many thanks Josh

Hey guys that was happening on my accord I sealed the map sensor u have to re adjust it properly to idle correct also I swapped the idle control valve and idle position sensor which also needs to be calibrated to work properly I assure u if you do those first before the others got problems will be solved