Engine stalls / hesitations at idle and low acceleration

Here is a recall that may pertain to the problems you are having. Hope this helps. Recall Date: SEP 11, 2000 Model Affected: 1999 HYUNDAI ELANTRA Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: SOME SONATA VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.5 LITER V-6 ENGINES AND ALL ELANTRA MODEL VEHICLES MAY HAVE EXPERIENCED INTERMITTENT LOW-SPEED ENGINE STALLING, WHICH COULD OCCUR IF THE MAF (MASS AIR FLOW) SENSOR ELECTRICAL SIGNAL IS INTERRUPTED AS A RESULT OF ENGINE VIBRATION TRANSMITTED TO THE MAF SENSOR CONNECTOR WIRING HARNESS. Consequence: THIS CONDITION CAN CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH. Remedy: DEALERS WILL RE-ROUTE THE MAF SENSOR CONNECTOR WIRING HARNESS. Potential Units Affected: 165977 Notes: HYUNDAI MOTOR COMPANY 039/040 Read more: http://www.automobilemag.com/am/1999/hyundai/elantra/recalls.html#ix zz2R6PjsP9M

@dandyoun, thanks so much for the hint -- unfortunately, I've already called Hyundai, and they told me that both recall services for this vehicle had been done in 2000 / 2001. So, it's probably something else.

Might want to take a good look at the harness that was rerouted on the recall. What you are describing sounds a lot like what the recall was for.

We are having the same problem with our 2003 Elantra. It can get terrible when it is hot, which it certainly is this week. Any ideas? We have had it to our mechanic multiple times and he has replaced various things. He recommended using high octane fuel, and that did help for a while. Then it seemed like perhaps it was a transmission issue, so we put some transmission fluid booster in, but now that it is so hot, the fuel and additives aren't enough.

FINALLY !! I was going crazy with my moms n 2003 Elantra . It was the fuel injectors but they had too be removed and cleaned thoroughly. we didn't think it was that cause the dealer cleaned them but with a machine not manually. Car is running SUPER SMOOTH !!!!!

All what you have mentioned above....could any of those symptoms cause the engine light to appear?

The engine light doesn't go on when my car stalls it's happened quit a lot and even the dealership has no clue why. So far 1 accident and 2 times in the dealership due to stalling with no answer as to why yet.

i have a 2001 Elantra doing the EXACT same thing. have replaced plugs and wires, coil pack, had the timing belt done several years ago - currently changing the camshaft sensor but don't have much faith in that

For the owner who originally posted this...did you ever figure out what the issue was? I have a 2013 Elantra Limited that is doing the same exact thing...we have noticed that it typically does not happen unless the range is under 60 miles so when the tank has about 2 gallons left. It almost always happens when making a right turn and sometimes when going on a straight course. Basically if you're coasting and then give the car gas to speed up it either hesitates or just completely dies...the car is at the dealership now and of course they have not been able to recreate the problem but it died on my daughter when she turned onto a main road just two miles from the dealership. Any suggestions? They haven't got a clue bcz the diagnostic computer can't figure it out for them. they had the car for 6 1/2 hours today.

No, we've never figured it out. The likeliest suspects would be in the fuel system: some of the injection machinery / sensors, the fuel pump, or something having to do with the gas tank / fuel filter / fuel supply. If it's definitely affected by how full the gas tank is, the pieces near the gas tank become the prime suspects: fuel pump, filter, and anything else that would be affected by the pressure diffierence between full and empty, increased amounts of dirt, increased supply variability due to fuel sloshing, etc. I *think* that the pressure past the fuel pump should be fairly independent from your fuel levels, but I'm not a mechanic. Given how new your car is, I would be pretty surprised if there is gunk in the gas tank, or issues with the fuel filter (unless somebody put a bunch of trash in your tank). Maybe it's a problem with a fuel pump, its wiring, or electronics? I didn't bother trying to replacing the fuel pump on the 1999 Elantra because with the high cost of labor around here, the cost of the repair would be over a third of the cost of the entire car :D With respect to the various sensors, I think we ruled out the MAF and its wiring harness. Several mechanics played with some of the other sensors as well, and did not find an issue.

Veester's answer about the fuel injectors seems like another possibility. Should be a lot less trouble than changing the fuel pump, so you could try that first :)

My issue was solved. Two fuel injectors needed to be replaced and the speed sensor was causing the stalling, which eventually led to the transmission going into 'limp mode' which is how we found out the sensor was bad.

Hey, we just got the 2013 Elantra Limited, which had the same exact problem. I'm her daughter. The guys at the dealership were thankfully able to recreate the problem multiple times. They found that it typically stalled when coasting straight and that the engine cuts out entirely more often when turning right and pressing the gas. They examined the fuel pump and found a crack in it. Since replacing the pump, the car has functioned perfectly fine, even after I attempted to make it stall or cut out multiple times while at a gallon of gas or less. When the gas runs low again, we will attempt to make the car stall to test that the problem is repaired. I will let you know if we find that there is still a problem.

I used lucas fuel injector cleaner and it worked, debri in gas tank when 1/4 of gas in tank. took a trip to NY and it ran fine last fill up was at 1/4 i think debri clogged it up again when got home it stalled, like yours. Charcoal canisters get clogged look into that as well.

B4 you do anything to your cars make sure you don't have gps tracker with stall meaning kill switch on it because I had reduce engine seed and my car did not wanna starts at times it would turn and turn and it would not start and when it start it would stall and turn off watch for these car financing scams and don't fall to such a victim pull that shit off.. i fix my problem with removing the gps tracker here's how. https://m.youtube.com/watch? v=jEWpb7xOAHI

OP? Has anyone checked your cat(s) could be broken down and clogging your exhaust and affecting back pressure which "could" cause all sorts of weird acceleration and low idle problems. Your car may have 2 cats as so does my 03. "Usually" a bad cat throws a CEL though? Just a thought

Hi everyone. I recently purchased a 2014 Hyundai elantra limited and same exact thing is happening. cars pedal doesn't respond and car idles every time I get to a complete stop. the car has been at the delearship several of times and they do not have a clue of what the problem might be. I tried having Hyundai repurchased my car but they didn't, supposedly because they never duplicated the problem. at this point I don't know what to do. I need some help. please let me know if you guys were able to find the problem and get it fixed or any advise of the steps I should take. i'll really appreciate it.

Mine is 2001 elantra. Same problems. Mechanic replaced Crankshaft and camshaft sensors, but still the same problem. Now diagnosing speed sensor problems etc. I am at my limits with this car. Any help?

I have a 2007 Elantra that stalls occasionally when going at low speed such as preparing to turn or when going down a hill with very little or no throttle. The fuel pump and filter have been replaced. No engine light on beforehand and no codes. Temperature is not a factor. Dealer is stumped. Can you give any help?

I just purchased 2014 Elantra limited. I was on stop and go traffic on the freeway, certainly the car doesn't respond to gas pedal and the engine stopped. I was so panic, I put the gear back to park, turned off and on the car (keyless) several times then it turned on again. Is there a recall on this issue? I should purchase Toyota or Honda car instead, so disappointed in Hundai.

I have a 2010 Elantra Touring GLS, standard. My car just started doing this. I was in stop&go traffic on the freeway when it started dying, but it could be restarted. When I got off the freeway and was slowing to a light it stopped entirely and would not restart. after coasting down a hill and pulling over, I got it to restart but then it hovered around 1000rpm and just DIED. It wouldn't restart at all. By the time CAA got there, it started fine and stayed running fine. It has been at the dealer for days and of course, they cannot repeat the problem. I am having them look at everything listed here and hopefully they will find the problem. I have suspected the catalytic converter since the engine/exhaust started intermittently making loud noises at high speed/revs after gas tank fill... of course they never found an issue. I will post results if they find anything out.

2001 Elantra, same issue, Replaced speed sensors and fuel injectors, didn't solve the problem. My next step is to replace the fuel pump

2001 Elantra, same issue. Replacing speed sensors and fuel injectors didn't solve the problem. My next step is to replace the fuel pump

Hey guys, always look for the simple stuff. Inspect any and all vacuum lines for cracks or a hole on the underside of the line. I helped a friend with a 2000 or 2002 Elantra and from limited memory it was the catalytic converter. The new one only came with the manifold, but it seems like it wasn't really that expensive and the bonus points: I took the old cat converter to a recycler and got about $45 bones for it. by the way, no mechanic could figure it out and no codes. This fixed it.

Changed Catalytic converter and both O2 sensors, same problem. No cracked hoses, the only new thing is that the check engine light came on and the code translates to an open thermostat, the car is running on the cold side.

I have a 2014 Hyundai Tucson which I purchased in June 2014 and I've had it in the shop since I bought it off and on. I drive in for about 30 miles and it hesitates and skips some and I leave it parked from 6:00 a.m. to 5:00p.m. and anytime I get in it and get to a traffic light it idles down like it is going to cut off and stall out. At times it revs up like it is trying to go forward with my foot on the brake. It has surged when crossing 4 lanes because of this issue as well. Anyone else have this??

I purchased a 2002 Hyundai Elantra my issue started about 2 months ago. I would come to a stop and the car would start hesitating and sputtering and eventually stalls. Always restarted after a couple minutes. The issue got progressively worse. We changed the fuel pump assembly, fuel strainer, canister purge valve and new spark plugs. This corrected the issue for about 3 days. It started missing and progressively got worse again stalling and sputtering, always restarting until yesterday. It was having issues starting again, would start for a couple seconds and if I applied pressure on the gas pedal there was no response and it stalled the car. Start it again idled rough; step on the gas and it was like it was being choked out. Had an opposite effect when stepping on the gas, instead of the RPM increasing it decreased. Very frustrating as you just never knew when it was going to die. Now it sits, does anyone have any ideas of what could be wrong with it now? Tired of sinking money into parts when it is not correcting the issue. Any advice would help. ?????

This is driving me crazy, so far this is what I did Changed both O2 censors Changed both speed censors Changed Catalytic converter Change all four fuel injectors Changed fuel pump and filter None of the above helped, so I changed the idle controller and that made a big improvement but didn't solve the problem completely. so the issue has to do with lack of oxygen in the combustion chamber. Next and final step is to replace the vapor canister vent valve. BTW the check engine light is on complaining about the idle controller, the O2 sensor and the thermostat being stuck open.

The problem is the mass air flow meter, maybe this sensor is good but you need check wires from the sensor to the pcm. I hope this help.

People; I know that there are at least 5 main potential problems which cause the symptoms of the car idling rough, surging, hesitating at acceleration, stalling on stop signs and intersections, no response on pedal. 1) Usually the main culprit is a very dirty carbonized throttle plate and throttle body. 2) the idle air control valve is dirty and carbonized which intermittently blocks the electrical signal from being transmitted to the OBD computer on the car for fuel trim command....causing the computer to go into absence of signal mode intermittently...causing the engine to stall or shut down or hesitate intermittently. 3) the fuel pressure at the injector rail is below recommended settings ( the car will run fine at low speeds although slowto respond....but does not respond at higher revs....car doesn't reach high speed- again this case is most likely a fuel pressure issue.)..4) MAFS mass air flow sensor is dirty......5) vacuum leak........................................folks I'd start with these issues absent OBD 2 codes to help. -Benjamin Chung

Also have the same problem and nothing seems to help. Now regretting ever buying a hyundai...

The throttle body has been cleaned and that helped for like a week! The car seems even worse now!

Interested in this as well; am going to show my mechanic but so far......I have a 2009 Hyandai Accent. Last year it began to start stalling at each acceleration and then at each light. I work overnight and drive for delivery; live in Fl. During the day, especially hot ones, it will go so badly I cant get it accelerated without fearing to blow something for the rough throttle while at night, there are very few problems until I hit a very steep hill and try to accelerate. Mechanic replaced the first ignition coil and it ran great for about 6 weeks. Now back to the same point. Looked at everything but husband also thinks it can be an electrical sensor-not certain though. Same as anyone here....any help.

1- I removed the hose that connects the engine valve cover to the throttle body (the one after the throttle opening) that got my RPM to go up to 2000, but it fixed the stalling issue 2- I removed the engine valve cover to see if the hose plug was clogged, but it wasn't 3- I put the hose back and drilled a 3/8 inch hole in it, this reduced my RPM to 1100 and the car is running fine now. Keep in mind that my car is Elantra 2001 with 82k miles on it, the car will not pass inspection due to false check engine codes (P1515 and P0030)

I have 2002 sonata and it has been doing the same thing for about a year now, and most of the time it will not star back when you press my gas pedal it just sounds like it's pumping air and dies, I believe the issue has to do with the pressure in the tank and lines because I have to fold down the back seat and remove the fuel pump cover and undo the hose with the bolt holding it in and pop the hose off to release the pressure then screw it back in, then prime the fuel pump by turning the key a couple of times and it starts up goes sometimes it may go 2 or 3 days without doing and sometimes it may happen every mile or so! i just know that it's not fun having to get out at a stoplight fold your back seat down pop the cover and remove the hose in order to get it to start and run just to get a mile up the road and have to do the same thing, not to mention getting sprayed in the face with fuel when there's to much pressure... Someone had mentioned something causing a vapor lock.. But don't have a clue as to what all could possibly cause that to happen!

To Jennifer, did you try to open the gas tank cover? it is much easier and should have the same effect. There is a vapor valve that controls the vapor from the gas tank going into the engine, yours may be deffective, check out this link https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=5PQlQ8K2MxU Apparently there are different causes to this problem, I thought I solved mine, but I was wrong, the problem is back with the hot weather.

Thanks I will definitely try that and let you know how it goes

Have any of you tried replacing the air filter? If it's dirty, it would choke the flow of air to the engine.....

Sold the car, can't afford sinking more money into it.

I have had nothing but issues for the past 6 months. My 2002 Elantra started out by sputtering and stalling. Always starts back up again, in time. Sometimes it wouldn't start for hours. So I have replaced 1. All new plugs and wires 2. Air Filter 3. Canister Purge Valve 4. Fuel Strainer 5. Fuel Pump Assembly Now with each new part the car would run well for a few days to a week then start acting up again. So unreliable. So I replace another part 6. Crank Sensor Worked fine for the day that the part was replaced. Then the next day, I drove approx. 15km was fine. Was down to 1/4 tank of gas so stopped to get fuel; always fill to 3/4 of a tank. Once done fueling my car would not start. Tried again and it started. Leave the gas station approx. 3km down the road it starts to glide and have ZERO response with my gas pedal, there was just nothing there. The car coasted till eventually pulled over and had to restart my car. It did start, start driving again; same thing 2km down the road. This continued every 2-3 km until I made it home. So a total of 5 times stopping with no response in the gas pedal. The last time it done that before I got home I pumped my gas pedal fast did a couple little back fires and then the pedal responded and continued down the road. This is crazy, I have replaced so much and still have my car unreliable and dangerous to drive. If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated. I have read all comments and written down what has helped some people. I just need answers. When my car isn't being bi-polar it is great to drive!

outdoorsgrl75: sputtering and stalling? Sounds like a common symptom of a dirty carbon infested throttle body and throttle plate( you'll have to remove the air hose assembly from the throttle body and buy a can of throttle body cleaner spray at the auto store and spray away until it is cleaned) 2) the idle air control valve is carbon dirty( same spray cleaning to do) 3) the car battery should be removed to reset the obd idle memory settings and then reattach the battery negative terminal ...then start car and push accelerator at about 1000 rpm for about 2 minutes with transmission in park mode...then let go of acceerator and this should relearn the idle speed to prevent further idle roughness and stalling.........finally look for vaccuum leaks....this will tend to cause car to stall and sputter.....last if it still doens't make the fix....it is most likely a ignition issue....think coils and spark plugs and ignition components distributor.....and also the fuel pressure if the car stalls only at high speeds....for better instructions check youtube : search "car stalls and sputters" or " rough idle" there are some very good directives there.....

I have a 2009 Ford Focus, and it idles really low at stops, almost to the point it wants to die but doesn't; the rpm gauge just moves up and down from 1 to below. Now, I had my car in the Ford place here for annual checkup last month, and the mechanic couldn't figure out why. So, can you tell me?? It seems like it's getting worse. Thanks, Jenn.

Our daughter's car is a 2000 hyundai elantra it started stalling thought fuel pump changed it..thought was map sensor change it..but still did same thing it was actually the PCV valve located on the side of the head can not see leak cause it was leaking inside the head causing the sensor to go off and shut down the fuel. The part was less than 10 dollars

Granddaughter has 1997 Hyundai Accent, they crank it engine idles fine, but when they put it in drive it will barely go. Like it takes 5 to 10 minutes in climb a short steep hill. It also takes a while to get it to 5 miles an hour. Help please.

I have a 2005 Elantra I have only had for 2 months and it has been back to the dealer 4 times for the same issue. The first 2x's it would be going along and it would all of the sudden slam then the check engine light would come on. The got a strange code didn't know what to do so they just reset the light. 2 weeks later it happened again. They replaced an O2 it was okay for a couple of weeks and it started again. This time the check engine came on then went out but I had no power what so ever! They replaced the second O2. No no check engine light but it feels like it wants to stall out and has no power what so ever. So far it hasn't stalled out but it's scary you never know when it's going to happen. So back to the dealer we go. Not that they seem to know what they are doing. I'll check on the recall but the car seems to have been taken care of so my guess that is done. Totally at a loss on what to do with it.

Hi I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra never had any major problems with it until now. While driving it stallsfor about a Secone or two then when I accelerate it picks up, Please help I dnot want to spend money on the wrong parts.

No one could figure out how to fix the stalling problem. Here are some of the parts I changed to no avail: Fuel pump Fuel Injectors O2 sensors Catalytic converter Speed sensors O2 regulator Spark plugs and wires. I ended up selling the car as is, the gentleman who bought it claimed that he knows how to fix it.

Hi I own a 2006 Elantra .. Get this I even called the dealer and asked if they had a recall on my car due to the issues everyone's having in the above comments and I was told no ! I replaced upper and lower oxygen sensors .. crank sensor .. The first Cadillac converter at the manifold ... It's crazy no warning lights .. Then I'll have an incident and I'll get a warning light and then out of the blue the warning light will just disappear the car is like has a mind of its own for when it wants to stall sputter and just cut out coming to a stop sign in or intersection !! like I said the same problem with a lot of the people above but different years ???? Come on we have to be able to do something .. Sounds like a huge car scam .. Feeling taken advantage of by Hyundai Elantra !!

Hi I also own a 2006 Elantra... Maybe this can help evaluate the issue. I ONLY drive my car to and from work. The same route every day. I have noticed that every time it begins to choke up when it reaches a temp just under the halfway mark on the gauge. If the outside temp is lower it takes longer, and I get about 10 miles but if the temp is warmer it occurs sooner within 7 miles. This makes me think it's temp related. Only I don't know what to look at. Does it act like mine in that if I shift it up to neutral that the engine works fine but when I pop it back into drive it chokes up still... until it get past that temp zone and then works ok. So is It transmission or engine? A temp sensor maybe? If it were fuel why does the issue occur at set circumstances with everyone here and not constantly? what I know of fuel pumps is that they operate constantly at the same rate. Am I wrong? Any new Ideas or solutions would be great before I start pumping more money into this thing? Thanks bunches

2001 elantra, its a very good and economic car but i have the same exact problem, changed a bunch of parts, and keep getting the same problem, sick of putting new parts in it. My mechanic is very good, he would fix whatever you bring him, and he could not figure this out. Last time I brought it over for the 8th time probably, he said theres a computer issue code coming up. I belive its not worth my money to look for the problem. I selling it and you should do the same be fire it gets worst 12/29/15

Hi Everyone ..OK I've tried different levels of fuel and it does seem to do it with a lower fuel...Seems is the key word Because it has happened on a full tank !" OK So then I thought maybe it has to din with the heat because it would happen it seemed when I had the heat on high . So I drove with no heat and Nope it did bit again Go to turn left not right and it stalls. I've had the stalling issue with it idiling in traffic on the highway ..Talk about stress ! I even avoid major roads so I don't cause chaos with the drivers behind me .Yes Yes it recovers but its the shock if it happening that throws me off ...Let's see I just presently had to replace the eater pump So I had the timing belt done at the same time ...It ran really good ...Then " Hello!" Back to its old game . Now I have a thought ...I think it has something to do with the gas pedal ..I'm thinking some where in there it huts something and causes a flood out?? And why hasn't anyone Video taped this happening ? I know long shot but I don't get it All these mechanics have no clue ?? They don't test drive ??? And Hyundai still sells these cars??? There has to be some recourse !!" Oh and to the reader above who said to take the fuse from the Duke pump and separate the prongs ... We tired it . And it did stop for about two weeks . I don't know ..If I wanted a mystery machine I'd hook up with Scooby Doo !!"

* Water pump *Fuel pump Sorry for the Typos!"

Not sure why no one has mentioned this on this thread.. Known issue with 2.0 engine in older Elantras was a deteriorating OE intake manifold gasket. This causes a vacuum leak of varying degree, which creates all kinds of hesitations, intermittent stalling, and other drive-ability issues that are mentioned in many of the posts above. As the engine warms to operating temperature, parts expand and the issues can become worse. Eventually, as was my case on my 01 Elantra, the OE intake manifold gasket deteriorates to the point of making the car almost being un-driveable. Upon removing my intake manifold and exposing the gasket, I found the gasket almost non existent in areas. It is a simple process to test for intake manifold leaks at the gasket area, and you just need to check. I believe that at least a few of the owners who have tried everything else to no avail, will find success if they investigate this very real possibility.

I have a valid answer for every person here. I have a 2002 Elantra with 165,000 miles, it was hesitating very bad, I could not get car to go at all not even 10 miles per hour, I have the best mechanic in Dallas, TX. He said, "let me check your valve cover gasket, more than likely your losing compression and thereby power" he was completely correct. I eliminated stalling and hesitation entirely, I drive 70 on highway now and car is very responsive with plenty of power. Please don't make problem complex, look at replacing your valve cover gasket which more than likely has disintegrated over time. I will bet it will eradicate every persons problem due to fact that this pattern is common in those particular cars.

Perhaps you misspoke & meant either the intake manifold gasket, or head gasket? Rather than affecting compression or drive-ability, A valve cover encloses the sealed, non-combustion area containing rocker covers and push rods at the top of the engine. A faulty valve cover gasket would only result in a nuisance oil leak rather than drive-ability issues. A faulty intake manifold gasket however, would affect drive-ability, mostly through loss of vacuum. Loss of compression and resulting drive-ability issues, could indicate a bad head gasket, (among other things) as it functions as a seal between the head and the engine block.

"let me check your valve cover gasket, more than likely your losing compression and thereby power" * Note: In my response, I only mention the head gasket while responding to this quote from the post above regarding compression. I am not suggesting a bad head gasket as a possible cause to the symptoms described by those in this thread.

We replaced, spark plugs and cables, full cat converter, fuel injector, gas pump and water pump all for nothing. Same problem, and the car tends to stall after it heats up. As i mentioned on my last post I sold the car to my mechanic. He needs to fix now so he can sell it. Ill let you guys know what happens.

So everyone if u look on backside (firewall side) you will see a metal tube coming off of intake it is for your evap emissions control look where hose connects to canister and plug it off if this does not solve problem then your intake manifold gasket will thats why maf code is thrown because when your car heats up metal heats up well metal expands when heated then you startsucking air causing it to sputter the reason it gets worse after time is because you constantly flexingthe metal through heat on hyundais terrible gasket makes it crumble or crack get a good quality intake manifold gasket redo hosesvand watch it run like the car you want im a mechanic i own a 2000 and couldnt let it break me ive done everything in the book and this was it trust me its a cheap fix

Ok so I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra . Have replaced battery , new fuel pump assembly and it dies when I'm accelerating or at a stop . There is no check engine light on . Took it to autozone today and scanned car . Fault code came back P0105 . Don't really know where to start . Check manifold gasket ? Speed sensors ? MAP sensors ? Bad wiring ? Fuel injectors clogged . Wow ! Help ! Please

Ok so I have been haveing the same problem, Along with not being able to fuel at the pump without it shutting off every 1/4 of a gallon or so. I have looked and looked and from what I can gather. Most of these problem have to do with the Vapor canister and those wounderful little carbon pellets. See the Gas tank vents into this and if the purge valve get clogged with them it wont open or work right. So if you change both of these it should work. I just found out the canister is a big problem(havent changed it yet) but I will now. Also I heard that is you put some kind of mesh over the port that goes into the purge valve it will keep them from getting clogged up in there.. Hope this helps I see this is a big problem with this car..

Wow, lots of possible problems on this thread. I have a 2002 Sonata that dies like described above, after 10 minutes of warming up, every time I slow down or take my foot off the gas. I have to get the list from my guy for everything we've tried, $1600 plus. Still no obd code. I've copy/pasted everything in this thread and will compare it to what I have done. This car has been taking up parking lot and costing me insurance for a year that I haven't been able to drive it. I'll be back if I get some results this time. I'm can't put much more into this.

THANK YOU all! I FIXED it! I had same absolutely same troubles described in the long post of the author on the top. My car is 2006 Toyota Corolla, automatic gear, but this doesn't matter, because all symptoms were100% same. Engine stalling when stopping (yes, when stopping because of automatic gear the engine load a little bit because engine is left on idle while stopping and no adding fuel and still attached on D to the gearbox, the engine is loaded a little bit until it stopping, this is because of principe of automatic gear work. try to switch on N neutral gear when stopping and the engine calm down because no taking resistance from gear box and is fully released in complete idle, btw I have no problem with gear box, it's just a way to provoke the ill engine to hiccup for analysis), when run takes slow or no response of the pedal, acceleration is noisy, lazy, shaing, and with interruptions and hiccups, sometime car cannot accelerate at all and engine is shaking so strong about to shut down. All symptoms starting after a short drive, after 5-10km drive. When engine is cold at the beginning no problems. I tried to put additives in the fuel, clean injector additive, bit i'm not sure whether it helped something or not. Thank to some posting here I solved completely and the engine is like new :)) all problems gone My MAF (mass air flow) sensor was very dirty and with the time the computer was adding more air in the engine because the sensor have lost it sense for correct air flow. This affected the SPARK PLUGS and they got a white film on it and lost conductivity and make weak sparks. I found my COOLANT under the min level so it cause the engine to heat a bit more, just a bit more than normal, but not to overheat. And my engine oil was on min. The fuel cleaning injector additive maybe helped a little bit but i'm not sure. Changing the air filter didn't help at all. After I added good COOLANT (not water) and oil above min, the symptoms reduced on 50% but still there, just became more rarely and not so strong but still was there. Then I put a new cheap copper spark plugs for $20 and all problems gone. Engine became so quiet, acceleration is like new car, stopping is smooth. Don't forget to clean MAF sensor because more air in the engine will dirt the spark plugs with white film/slag. Thank you guys you saved me a thousand of dollars, I live in Sydney Australia, if I had gone in local service, they would have ripped me off with $$$$$ for diagnostics, unnecessary activities (problem investigation), unnecessary parts replaced and god knows what more, you can't imagine how expensive is here :D

MAF sensor is really easy to clean. That should be the first step. Otherwise, check the vapor canister. If the charcoal filter is torn, the pebbles can run into your fuel lines and obstruct gas flow soon after you start driving. It can be costly to replace, but you will know for sure if the canister is broken if you squeeze the hose lines and feel something like little stones in the line.

I'm having the same problem with my 2014 Elantra.. While sitting in rush hour traffic, barely moving, the car just dies... I had it in the dealership after the first few times it happened, and they couldn't find anything wrong. Now, a year later, it has happened again, twice in a month. Next time I go into the dealer, I will have them check the "Mass Air Flow Sensor", as requested by one of my mechanic friends... But its very frustrating..

I have a 2012 hyundai sonata. Battery light , oil light , and oil light came on. Car wouldnt accelerate.restarted the car a few times to get it going. Something supposedly going on with my camshaft placement sensor B. There is A and B. I took it to hyundai dealer and they're screwing me around even though hyundai said it's covered. They currently have my car and are looking it over. They said poor oil care can cause such things even though I was anal about changing mine. I think it's one of the many faults with hyundai

Guys the "mass airflow sensor" is the real culprit here...have that checked before fuel pump, injecters and other parts...happened to me before with my 04 elantra and now cars runs smooth after replace MAF sensor

We're having the same problem. Not the catalytic converter or injectors. Looks like it is an IAC that is slow to react to idle speed due to age/wear. Clean the IAC and the throttle body before anyone starts buying expensive parts or repair services.

I own an 06 Hyundai sonata it has a similar issue after take off it looses power and won't accelerate over 3000 rpm untill it is shut off and restarted. I have found it to be the transmission kicking into limp mode. Mine is caused by a bad throttle body making the transmission think their is a problem so to protect its self it kicks into limp mode to keep further damage from accuring...... But as for yours it sounds similar but it happening in turns sounds like fuel pum pickup issue cause your able to rev the engine to keep it running.......... If it was in limp mode it would only rev up to 3000 rpm and only do 40 mph max........ Hope this helps

I had similar problems with my 2005 Elantra after an engine swap...high surging idle 1200rpm to 3000 rpm. Sometimes the idle would stumble all the way to almost stalling out the engine...I was stumped. I thought about what could be the cause finally after working my engine install backwards from finish to start I discovered that the throttle cables were loose at the double nut set that holds the spring loaded throttle in place. Once those were tight the idle stopped surging!!! But still kinda high 2000rpm so I went back to those two nuts holding the throttle setting and readjusted them until idle was at 1000pm steady...now the engine is steady and smooth..check your throttle cables see if they are set correctly and not loose...good luck

Hyundai Elantra 2016, less than 20,000 miles. Making right turn, gas pedal became unresponsive and very smooth but immediate engine stall. Started back up a few minutes later, but drove it home to borrow husband's car to get to work. I was on feeder road & immediately blocked traffic, was pushed off the road, but if it had stalled 2 minutes later, I would have been on MAJOR highway with lots of 18-wheelers and no shoulder -- fatality realistic result. Dealership can't look at Elantra for a week, said they "never heard of this problem". So no car, no loaner even though 2-year-old car under warranty. Managed to drive to nearby PepBoys, get oil change (last oil change 7,000 miles ago), new air filters, but nothing showed up on their diagnostics. Will post if Hyundai dealership finds anything. I'm sure they will find no code, however, so I will print out all these responses, so they cannot pretend the issue doesn't exist. Will post again after dealership. This car is unsafe.

Hyundai dealership drove 2016 Elantra around the block, couldn't duplicate the stall of course, tried to sell us possible fixes and offered nothing to help us even though vehicle has only 20,000 miles on it & under warranty. No diagnostic code, so they say nothing they can do. Called Hyundai Motors, and they will do nothing for us with this UNSAFE vehicle. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT against Hyundai for engine stalls?

I traded my 2014 Tuscan in that was doing this same thing in June of 2015 (a year after purchasing it brand new) on a 2015 Ford Edge at Stivers Ford. I got a great deal and I have loved the car from day one!

Oh my gosh! I have a 2018 Hyundai Sonata L - only 7 months old, 2,150 miles, which is doing the same thing! Hyundai service told me to take it off Eco Mode and put it in Comfort Mode and it's even worse ! It is dangerous to drive and I'm taking it in next week. If they can't fix it, I'm cutting my losses and trading it in for another Toyota- never had trouble with them. Never had such a Lemon.

MAP sensor

BrandywineLady, they told me the same thing about the Eco Mode and it made mine worse as well. Hyundai even hooked a so called computer to my car to track and monitored when the Tuscan would experience these events and, even though it reported some of the issues, they did not and could not repair it. I have even had the sales manager in my car when these things have happened and they always go back to "well, we have to have it do it on the machine." Yes, this is a huge safety issue and someone needs to look into it and make Hyundai issue a recall and repair these vehicles. Mine would all but stall when crossing a 4 lane major highway. I could mash the gas to the floor and it would barely go. As I said, I traded my 2014 Tuscan (which I had purchased brand new) on a brand new 2015 Ford Edge SE and I am still in love with this vehicle!

My Hyundai Elantra 2016 was leased, so even though changing the dirty air filters as well as changing the oil seemed to have helped, I am turning it back in at end of lease and buying an Honda. I don't trust my Elantra. Who could blame me? The only reason I continued to drive it after the engine stalls is it's a leased vehicle and Hyundai would not do a thing for me. I was stuck with keeping it. Very poor customer service when a customer is genuinely scared to drive the vehicle they manufactured! They do not stand behind their product.

We just had a 2016 Elantra come in the shop. read through about 20 posts on here, got the inclination to check the fuel pump. We removed it and found debris stuck in the pressure relief or pressure regulator assy. will post pics if i can. some stringy looking stuff in the spring and seat assy in the fuel pump. same sypmtoms upon arrival. car shuts off unexpectedly at mostly lower speeds, sometimes when hitting bumps. it even died pulling in to the shop here. Steep driveway. Died once the car got at an angle vertically. Awaiting new fuel pump. Will update soon.

pics for 2016 elantra trash in fuel pump assy.

another pic of spring and seat contamination

pic 3

Been reading through questions and answers for about 30 min. 1999 Hyundai elantra 2.0 automatic. Stalls, half power even going 60mph, only full power after killing and restarting. Replaced parts:MAF sensor, idle air control valve, computor, spark plugs, wires, intake manifold, catalytic converter. (Intake manifold and catalytic converter needed to b replaced, just adding to list since it was replaced and still having problems). Progressively worse over last 2 years. Transmission replaced around 190,000 miles(overdrive bad). Will b studying many responses i feel might b useful and posting progress ...if any.

I have the same problem and have been told it may be from vapor lock. It could help just taking your gas cap off and releasing the pressure

Derick~ Wow! Let us know if this helps you. So far mine has been OK for the last few months.

My friend had same problem, it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. I had come on here a few days ago about it, and had him tell his mechanic about the things some of you had listed as possibilities. Didn't turn out to be any of those, they only changed the crankshaft sensor.

I have a 2005 Hyundai Tucson and it was having the same issues. Stalls when pedal is depressed, check engine light on with lean codes. Replaces the cranshaft sensor and a few other parts with no success. It only stalls when the car is cold of at random stops. Its been doing this since last year. Recently I did figure our the problem. I did go to the gas station and did fill up the gas tank. I let the car sit for a little bit. I started the car, and the same problem happened, it stalled when the pedal was depressed. I started the think it was the purge valve. I had to take off the intake manifold to get to it. I replaced the spark plugs and the valve cover gasket while I had the intake off. I put it all back together and ran is for a few days. Problem fixed. Purge valve can cause a lot of issues and that's why not many people have figured it out. Hope this helps

@dieselgasman - That looks like bits of silicone. Did you ever determine the nature of the "stringy stuff"?

If it has overdrive try shutting it off

ok, I have read all of these posts and have a similar situation, a little history, 2009 Elantra Touring, 198K, original owner had a blown head gasket, was purchased by an individual who replace the engine supposedly with one that had 100K on it, my daughter purchased it, within 3 months the vehicle wouldn't go over 35 mph, pulled the O2 sensor and could see that the catalytic converter was bad, the coolant had crystallized on the honeycomb and it was coming apart, replaced it and the O2 sensor, vehicle ran ok (note, just okay) for 8 months, then same scenario, no codes were showing, after running full diagnostics and countless hours on the computer researching everything I pulled the downstream O2 sensor, it looked like the upstream one did earlier, pulled the second downstream catalytic converter, the outlet side looked perfectly fine, however the inlet side had crystallized and was coming apart, replaced the O2 sensor and since I don't live in an area that requires emissions testing I hollowed the second catalytic converter out and reinstalled it (replace it if you have to but with 200K on the odometer it wasn't worth the cost), the vehicle now runs better than it has since my daughter purchased it, hope this helps someone.

2001 Hyundai Accent with ~95,000 miles ran OK in winter, got worse and worse as weather warmed. Repairing exhaust leak between O2 sensors made dramatic improvement, but engine began stalling more and more at idle. Nearly redlined tach one day, then car would hardly stay running and would not accelerate at low engine RPM. While waiting for new parts (PCV valve, Purge Control Valve) to arrive and after "cleaning" nearly all sensor contacts, I "think" I put the ECU into "learn mode" by starting the engine, then idling for about 30 minutes, after which it ran well. For 2 days the car has been running like new! I suspect a catalytic converter issue (or clogged EGR?) that may have resolved itself when I raced the engine that one day, as the catalytic converter is between the two Oxygen Sensors on this vehicle. Have the new catalytic converter on hand, ready to replace if the problem returns. May clean EGR soon as well.

Have a 2012 Elantra that's also having this issue now

Well. You might as well trade it in while there’s still time. Haha. Jk. So I never posted back on the 2016 we had with the fuel pump pics above. It actually turned out that if you unplugged the cam phasing or timing solenoids, the issue was completely resolved except the check engine light and loss of some power. We changed both solenoids but the car still had an issue so we sent it to the dealer for camshaft phaser repair. Hope that helps you out. P.S. if you spell Hyundai backwards and upside with your eyes squinted it says “much patience required”.

And sorry Syrr for not responding back to ya. Idk what that crapola in the pump was. Didn’t seem like silicone to me. Felt like stringy metal thread. Weird crap.

I have a 2004 hyundai elantra and i can't figured it out either very similar problem besides mine will idle alll the time and when i pulled the code it was for the cam sensor, but i accidentally unplugged the vvt selinoid and the car still runs? how is that possible. and now i changed the cam sensor and it didn't change and that what was the code was for and the symptoms.

Simply put I think MAP or MAF sensor... I have a 2001 Elantra in great condition just took a road trip from Colorado to New York with it. I have been here in NYC for 3 months and this issue which I have had to a very light degree since I got the car five years ago has gotten worse. Stalled a dozen times times in 5 years and now six times yesterday. I replaced MAP sensor with part from pepboys, either they gave me a damaged one or it's the MAF sensor. It could be or wiring or tubing has a leak. I don;t know who to tell which. From listening closely I hear that it's an air flow stall. Engine is being choked with not enough air flow. To get home without stalling I disconnected MAP sensor and can drive just fine without stalling however less smooth performance and higher fuel consumption. Although that leads me to think it's the sensor if everything seems fine when I disconnect it.

I have a 2016 Elantra that has started the stalling issue. It starts right back up but last night as I was driving home from work it now has a loud knock, not just the normal ticking. When that started the car stalled immediately but still started right up. When the knocking starts, I lose power. After restart, the car is smooth, put it in gear and it starts hesitating and then the knock again and it stalls. We have recently changed the spark plugs and that is when all this started, I do not know if it is related or not, just thought I would throw it out there. We changed the Crankshaft position sensor, and there has been no change. I wonder if anyone else has had that very loud knock with the stalling. I will not drive this car with it acting like this. I do not feel it is safe.

GuruPYTC6, we had the exact same thing with our Kia Soul. It turned out the catalytic converter was completely shot.

I have a 2015 hyudai elantra, it started sputtering at a red light then when accelerating it was sputtering and didnt want to go i keep having problems like this we were just about to go in and get a new elantra but now i will NEVER buy a hyudai car again they are dangerous!!!!

Try checking the VVT solenoids (Variable Valve Timing). These can cause timing and idle issues without throwing engine codes. I've seen replacing these on Hyundai and Kia resolve this issue.

I just wanted to update everyone. I previously posted about my Elantra stalling when we would get up to temperature. We ended up changing the oil sensor, the cam shaft position sensors, the spark plugs, checked the coils all with no help. We finally gave up and took it to a local mechanic that works on foreign cars. He checked it out and it turns out our Variable Valve Timing was not good and we needed new phasers. It was expensive to fix, costing us over $2100 but it completely fixed the problem. We were so tired of trying so many different things that everyone was saying to do so that is why we took it in. Just thought it might help someone who has tried everything and nothing worked. Have your VVT checked and the phasers. Thanks!!

So I have a 2016 Elantra. It’s been having the same problems about stalling at a low rpm. I’ve changed the map sensor and the camshaft sensor too. It’s throwing a p106 code. I’ve tried contacting Hyundai to see what the problem is but they won’t contact me back.

@Hooligan23, our 2016 was doing the same thing. My answer is above yours, we ended up taking ours in to a mechanic and it was the variable valve timing. We needed new phasers and no matter what we were doing it was not fixing it. It has now run wonderfully since we got them changed over a month ago. You might need to take it to somewhere that they can check that. Hope you get yours fixed... it is so frustrating to go through!

I drive an Hyundai i30 GD 1.4 from 2012 in germany which is a similar car. After the night and the temps are down to 15 °C or less the car has a massive power loss in the low rpm area. It dows not stall but until it reaches about 3000 rpm it feels like the car has absolutely no power and the engine "shakes". After short driving time and the engine warms up this behaviour dissappears and the car runs completely normal. I tried: -hyundai resetted the throttle valve and the ecu. I changed the fuel filter and added a injector cleaning additive. The oxygen sensors are ok, i got them checked. Anyone any ideas? The german community is a bit small and doesnt know this problem.

@thegermanguy, try checking out your EVAP system, especially the EVAP control solenoid, I have a 2001 Elantra and that's what was wrong with mine when it was doing something similar.. it's the one by the fuel tank not the motor, it also has a habit of letting those carbon pellets get into the fuel tank which is another problem..