Car will not accelerate while in drive or reverse

You probably didnt need a new battery, what you need is a new alternator, you can check to confirm by charging the battery over night your car will work fine after, after you drive it and alternator wont do its job your throttle body starts to act up because its not getting good voltage.

Agree with Met above, BUT check for corroded battery terminals first. My Nissan Murano is doing the same thing. I cleaned corrosion off once, and thought it was fixed for about two weeks. Same thing happened, so I bought some battery corrosion remover spray from parts store. Did same thing, but symptoms came back two days later. I'm thinking I will replace the corroded terminal this time - cost much less than alternator and can cause similar problems. Sounds like this is VERY common on Nissans - almost a recall issue if you ask me, because random accelerator problems can be extremely dangerous.

I am having a problem with acceleration in my 2007 Nissan Murano The vehicle will not accelerate or go over 20 MPH with the pedal to the Floor Can you tell me what is the problem and has there been a re-call for this problem? Thanks Gerald B

This happened to me on my nissan altima, on mine the alternator was not charging so i would check the alternator, because if the alternator is not charging than the battery is not being charged like it needs to, the voltage on the battery go down so all your modules start to act up and on my car the throttle body sensor was really acting up and it did what your explaining so i would check that first and than make sure your battery is good to if these are ok than i would go after the throttle body sensor but if that was bad it would throw a code.

I have the same exact problem currently and did everything he did and same results. What turned out to be the cause? Everyone saying it’s the alternator

Did you ever find out the problem

What was the problem

Does anyone have the answer to the Nissan loss of power,or limp Mode?

My nissan Altima 2012 2.5 safe mode kicked on wont go indrive or reverse what could make this happen

I have a 07 nissian murano my car loss power it would barely move I replace the battery and alternator but today it did it again I made it back in my driveway turn car off it didnt start up finally it did but it still got no power help what going on

One off the main cause is the throttle body. Or the accelerator pedal sensor

I have a 2003 Nissan Altima the car starts but the accelerator will not accelerate why the car is in drive or reverse

i have a 2008 Nissan Altima 3.5 v6, basically everything works, good voltage, good alternator, I turn on the Nissan and accerate with full power but... when I put it on drive or reverse it wont move just drives less than 10mph. What can I do next ?

Same thing happened to me a few years back, shop couldnt figure out what was wrong they kept thinking it was the battery than the throttle body, until they kept it overnight driving it and it happened to them , car would not accelerate even if u push on the gas it would barely roll and the vdc lights would come on and if you turn the car off it would not turn on again so they plugged in the scanner and figured out it was the alternator now the same thing is happening to me again .

Had same problem. Changed crank sensor, cam sensor, Maf sensor, plugs, cleaned egr valve and throttle body valve. Speed sensor seems to be the problem. So far no trouble. These cars are a piece of junk. Nissan knew they had this problem but no recall but on reprogramming computer that does not work. Don't buy Nissan. Honda is way better with no trouble for economy and durability.

I have a 2006 left hand drive automatic V6. The car starts normal. 2 weeks ago the battery and the alternator was replaced and my car ran like a dream. Today I started my car and pushed the fuel pedal and nothing happened. My TCL light came on and my SLIP light. I checked all my fuses and still found nothing. Can this also have something to do with the "Gas Pedal Accelerator"? Please help because its a awesome car to drive.

The same thing is happening to me right now. I have a 2013 Nissan Altima and I can be driving and all of a sudden I'm pushing the gas and it's the same thing no power it doesn't accelerate it won't stop or cut my car off it'll just keep going but it just roll like with barely any power I'll have to pull over I hit the brake leave the brake on for a little bit and then I'll push the gas again and then I'll start going and then a little bit later it would do the same thing I can be driving and all of a sudden no power it doesn't accelerate it doesn't matter how much I push on the gas it doesn't go. Does anybody know if it can be anything other than the alternator?

POS CVT transmission!

my friend has a 2008 nissan altima, Alternator is new and so is the battery. thinking baised off previous responses throttle body issue, accelerator pedal issues or CVT issue(my guess this is the worst case scenario)

Question My 2000 Nissan Maxima always had a lil problem with the transmission but now like I have gas and drive a few blocks and stop at a stop sign and the car dies or if I'm pressing the break the exceliration looses it and dies or comes to a crawl like 1mph or less and the gas pedal is hitting the floor I asked a mechanic and he said chage the fuel pump bit that was a fail what do you think is next in line plss need help to keep my job need my car thanks

The Nissan has 2 possibilities one being more likely then the other first a fuse under the dash board. Or a throttle relearn process

I have a 2009 Nissan that would barely move in reverse or drive. After reading several articles on it I removed the battery cables from both terminals. I waited 30 seconds and re-attached the cables. I then pushed the start/stop button without pushing the brake to allow only the dash lights to come on. I waited about 10 seconds, pushed the start/stop button again to turn the car back off. Waited 5 seconds and started the car. It's been over a month and no more issues with the car. Try this before replacing anything. Your vehicle could be in idle/safe mode.

I have a 2012 Nissan Altima and my car charger does not charge my phone all the time (its the one in the dashboard and the one in the middle console won't charge my phone either. I have checked the fuse and there is nothing wrong. I don't know what else to check.

I have a 2016 Nissan Altima SL. I have a similar problem as the above people. My car drives normal but randomly it will not accelerate when I come to a stop and then go again. Like at a light or something. I can push the pedal to the floor and nothing and then all of a sudden it takes off with the RPM's high. I do not trust the car to jump in front of traffic. What I have noticed, is when I turn it off and back on it is back to normal. Like it resets or something. I'm unsure if it is a recall or was a recall with prior years. Anyone know? Thank you - Michelle

I have a 2007 Nissan Máxima with a 3.5 that would barely move in reverse or drive. After reading several articles on it I did what Jamie wrote, I removed the battery cables from both terminals. I waited 30 seconds and re- attached the cables. I then pushed the start/stop button without pushing the brake to allow only the dash lights to come on. I waited about 10 seconds, pushed the start/stop button again to turn the car back off. Waited 5 seconds and started the car. Drove it around the block with no problems. Try this before replacing anything. Your vehicle could be in idle/safe mode. Thanks Jamie

CVT TRANSMISSIONS VALVE BODY ISSUES LOW PRESSURE WILL STOP THE THROTTLE PLATE FROM MOVING TO PROTECT THE TRANSMISSION THERE ARE ABOUT 5 VALVES OF CONCERN A REBUILT VALVE BODY WITH SONNAX UPDATES CHEAPEST WAY TO GO 850.00 AND 2 HOURS LABOUR

A customer of mine has a 2012 Nissan Altima and did the same thing, no accelerator response when pushing on the pedal. Check engine light is on. Codes returned a mass air flow sensor circuit, 3 transmission codes and a crankshaft signal failure. Another shop diagnosed it as a bad CVT transmission and the repair did not repair the problem. Extensive diagnosis returned a bad Mass air flow sensor and a air leak on the intake air tube. So far running normal.

the transmission repair fixed the trans codes you just had multiple problems

I replaced the computer box and now the car is doing fine.

I have a 2005 Nissan Altima 3.5 SER I am having the same problem it will not go over 5mph starts fine push the pedal to the floor and the car just won't go???? alternator, battery, everything seems to be fine

P1229 is the code the car is pulling

2011 Nissan Altima SL with 156,xxxish miles after being on the interstate after an hr my wouldn't go over 60 and when going up a hill it wouldn't go over 45. NO CHECK engine light. didnt use any extra gas either. about a week later the engine light came on and it was pulling a catalyst converter. after talking to a few people and getting it changed my car has been going well.

MSartain14 I have the same problem and my car is also a 2016 Nissan Altima did u figure out what was the issue?

I ONLY HAD A CODE LOW PRESSURE SECONDARY NO OTHER CODES. DONE A PRESSURE ON SECONDARY PRESSURE OK. CHANGED THE PRESSURE SENSOR ON VALVE BODY. IF IT HAS ANY OTHER CODES ENGINE U CODES FIX THEM FIRST

Have 2008 Altima and mine is doing the exact same thing as everybody else's. New battery brand new alternator ran fine for 3 days. Now nothing again! Help!

I had the same problem, u will see the key fob security indicator is turned on in red colour. U need reprogramming for the key fob

2016 Nissan Maxima SR same problem.... will be at a stop light and try and take off and suddenly gas pedal does nothing. Happens sometimes while driving even.

My car is doing the same thing !! It lost speed then I cut the car off and it wouldn’t crank ..I had to get a jump off , I took it to autozone and the lady told me that it was the alternator

I had the same issue, they even replaced my throttle body position switch and still nothing. I googled answers to find out people were having the same issues and come to find out it was a $44 switch under the brakes. I went back to the dealership and got all of my money back because they diagnosed my car wrong. I even changed the switch myself. I'm still trying to think of the name of the part but it goes under your brakes and was pretty easy to install.

I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima. I just bought a new alternator and battery all in the same day this happens! Car stops accelerating and I have to cruise to the side of the road. But the car barely moved. I was hoping to make it safely to a parking spot! Not sure why this happened but from what I'm reading in the comments, I am not alone. This is very dangerous! I wonder if there's been a recall regarding this issue. I plan to take it in to get it checked out immediately. Needless to say I will never buy Nissan again!

So what was the problem with car?

Duconect battery cable wait1min, reconnect, press start but dont push on brake,dash lights will light,wait ten sec start cah!!! Toner

I have 07 Altima same issues I was on the way from Wv to SC it was fine all through until I hit VA and I couldn’t get passed 60! So I pulled over on the side cut my car off and when I cut it back on I could barley accelerate

It's most likely THE ALTERNATOR, had the same problem with my 2010 Murano , changed Battery, cleaned Throttle body, replaced terminal connectors and positive fuse block. Long story short, they temporarily got the car running for a few days , until I replaced the alternator!

It happened to me twice.... First instance 2 years ago, the rpm goes up and down from 1000rpm - 1500rpm and the accelerator did not respond even you floor it down..... Second instance just last week, the rpm will only go to 2000rpm and speed cant go more than 20kph even how hard you step on the gas...... My kabayan mechanic replaced the full throttle body in both instance and it went well.... Since it happened twice to me, I think this is one of the common issues of the Altima... By the way I have a 2006 Altima.

I am experiencing the same issue with my 2014 Nissan Altima.

For a computer controlled car the sensors are sh*t!!! 2005 Nissan Maxima. Replaced crank, both cams, VVT, alternator, ABS I gave up on, but starting to think that since everything is linked in this car, it could have been a sensor to begin with... That's after replacing all 4 ABS sensors, then having it code that it's the ABS pump. Tried 3 different ones. Now have no speedometer, not that I need it, the POS doesn't go over 20 mph, and that's on Taco Tuesday! Any ideas?

Oh, btw, It's a 3.5 and about a year ago drove 8 hrs by myself to the Blue Mountain Rock Fest in Virginia to have the alternator sh*t out literally at the gate. I mean seriously, I was the next one in and instead of getting waved through, I had a state cop screaming at me to get it out of the way. How do you deal? Thank God the people in the van behind me helped push it. 10 hrs later with a new alternator, and $1000 lighter, I made it back to the gate, and if I didn't love the car it would have met an untimely death by now.

And yes, it's not necessarily the alternator. The sensors go bad, don't communicate with the ECM and it goes into limp mode. Believe me, I've been there. And make sure you replace it with nothing but OEM or Dorman sensors, or you'll have the same problem within weeks.