check engine light with flashing cruise control light

I found an answer on another post. This seems to be an ongoing problem for the Forester. People have had lots of work done at Subaru without fixing the issue. I'm going to try to following suggestion: plug in MAF sensor after replacing air filter with an after market. Unplug battery for 1/2 hour. If that doesn't work, I'll try replacing the oxygen sensor and resetting the computer.

Two foresters 06 and 08, both do this periodically, engine and check cruise control lights. Dealer can find nothing, they stay on for awhile then go out after a couple weeks. I ignore it now. Nothing has happened to the cars since. The 06 did it within a year of buying the car, the 08 started within about the same time period.

2005 forester, just recently had blinking cruise, solid lit CEL, going into dealership this week, posts were extremely helpful to a single, 62 year old female, THANKS...will post outcome, and if not guaranteed to resolve issue, will take advice and do nothing...when I did call dealership, they did say "no worry" if CEL is solid and not blinking as if they are quite familiar with this sort of problem...will post at later date..Diana

My 2007 Forester had CEL come on with blinking cruise (and cruise dosn't work either) about 35 miles after i filled up at a non-mainstream gas station. I turned to the owners manual and i guess the Forester can be picky. The manual (see 7-2 in 2007 owners manual) states that some gas stations put an "...octane-enhancing additive called MMT (Methylcyclopentadienyl Manganese Tricarbonyl). If you use such fuels, your emission control system performance may deteriorate and the CHECK ENGINE warning light/Malfunction indicator lamp may turn on." That being said, i currently have a FULL tank of crappy gas...does any have a recommendation of what kind of additive i should put in to make the gas better.

not sure if this will help anyone but our 2007 2.5 turbo had the blinking cruise light and engine light on. we have found out its the fuel cap, it has a small sensor on it, and when released to put fuel in and replaced it can set the lights off up to a day later?? yes the forester can be picky

I had the same issue with my 07. $5200 later it was rectified. Bent valves, compression leak.... The list went on. apparently its a know fault with is model. Anyone else in the same boat??

Bent valves? That really only occurs if the timing skips, and is not common at all.

Glad to report that the solid check engine and the blinking cruise lights shut off this morning. Three days of anxiety over! Thanks for this forum and the above answers. Undoubtedly saved me hundreds of dollars. The dealers here in South Jersey just love to take us for a ride.

jmarie220, how? how did it turn off? it bugs me for months now, the computer has allegedly detected secondary air pump error. when replaced, it was off for some 200 km, then went on again. (same thing - cruise blinking , CEL constantly lit). i do have gas built in on my 2.0 2006 forester, though, with oil droppers (maybe it is another expression, but lubricating the valves)

I have a 2006 Forrester L L Bean model and the check engine light went on causing the cruise to blink. Young Subaru charged me for hundreds of dollars for DX could nt fix it, after $900.00 worth of work, problem still persists. Now my headlights and tail lights stay on even when the car is off....frustrated. Have to disconnect battery to turn them off, anyone have any ideas?

Did you check the parking light on top of your steering column?

I was cleaning around that area yesterday, I didn't realize there was a switch there. I went out connected the battery and checked the switch and fixed the problem. I don't know why you would use them, I never have cos I didn't know I had them. I'm not blonde I'm a red head......lol. THANK YOU all who helped me with this question you were all helpful!

No problem, that's a rite of passage for every new Subaru owner.

I too had the Check Engine Light/Cruise Control flashing problem happen on my 2009 Forester. My yellow traction control light (squiggly tire marks behind car) also comes on. I went to a tiny garage in east Tennessee and they guy did a diagnostic and said that it is caused when you haven't had an oil/filter change in over 7000 miles or so (he checked a "code" database to find out). He changed my oil and reset the computer. All better. Then 7000 miles later (I drive a lot and sometimes miss my oil changes), the same thing happened. Got the oil changed again and reset the computer, fixed again! Happened a third time and again got it fixed, but this time they forgot to reset the computer. Lights came back on quickly, but I went back and they reset the computer and all has been fine. Since I've had my oil changed regularly, no repeats of the problem.

Ii has to be something with the transmission or front differential fluid from what I can tell. I've had it happen many times, and it has gone away on its own in some cases, but other times, the "fix' was to add fluid. The first time it happened, I had parked my car sideways on a steep hill for a couple weeks. Shortly after leaving, the car bucked and heaved if I accelerated too much, and those lights came on. Since then, I have had it happen after long periods without any problem when I hit the accelerator hard for whatever reason. My only remaining questions are (1) is it the transmission fluid or differential, and (2) why is it getting "low"?

My 2008 just stopped running 1 month ago. It continually had these lights come on when driving over 100 miles at a time on the interstate. Then it would jerk when accelerating. When it died, it jerked and just lost power. For a 2008 it should have lasted much longer and was regular maintained.

I don't think there's an easy answer. My 2009 Forester does this intermittently (CEL, blinking CC, TCL stays on). The number of possibilities listed in this forum tells me there's a lot of things that could be involved, but no single consistent finding. I've maintained the vehicle properly & it runs fine; I've quit worrying about it.

A 10mm wrench, undo negative battery terminal. Wait 5 min. Reconnect, turn switch to run, but do not start. Wait about a minute while fuel injection brings pressure back on line. Start car. May have to crank it a bit. Reset radio and cruise on. Repeat as necessary.

OK.. one more time.. I found that I had overfilled both the transmission and front differential. I brought both back to the right level and still had the idiot lights come back on. FINALLY, it occurred to me that I haven't changed the oil filter in a while, and changed that. BINGO! Lights out!!

I have a 2005 Subaru Impreza, Solid CEL and blinking CC light, cruise does not work. I've had the oil changed regularly. 143K. AutoZone gave me an error code of #2937. It's running just fine. I change the spark plugs. They needed changing anyways. No change. Dash light still on. Will unhook battery and see what happens - for now - black electrical tape covers annoying lights.

The code 2937 is not a valid code, I would have them check it again. A word of warning on the check engine light: that same light is used for minor as well as major issues. If you get used to ignoring it and a major issue comes up, you won't catch it in time and can do damage to the engine. Much like the poster several posts up who had a check engine light and then the car simply "stopped running." The light is triggered for a reason.

But Jeff, it says right on the little ticket they handed me - #2937. And it says OEM number to Po420. Is that the correct code? It also says - Catlyst efficiency below threshold bank 1, prob cause rich a/f ratio, ignition system malfunction, faulty catalytic converter. Thank you for the help and advice.

My 2007 Forester CE light turned on for a third time in a year a few weeks ago. I checked the code with a device I purchased from Amazon. Turns out it was "engine misfire." Took it to a reliable local mechanic; oil was leaking into one of the cylinders. They couldn't get the valve cover off (?), and they now have to approach the problem from underneath. I'm at $748 and counting, but it will probably be near $900 before they are done. Car only has 77K miles on it...bummer. Can bad gas start this cascade?

I get in on a acceleration up a tight on ramp - not sure if its the incline or hard turn with the acceleration. It'll turn off after 3 starts w/o doing it again. Always worth checking your oil level and for any loose tubes, ducts, wires when you get lights on.

From what I understand, this is common with Foresters, 2005 on. The first time this happened I panicked! Had local mechanic change oil, since it was about 1000 miles overdue, which made sense. Problem solved. Three days later CEL solid, and CC flashing light returned. I returned to local mechanic, and he reset. He told me if this happens again, I have to take it to the Subaru dealer, to fix. He said my engine was in good running shape, and drivability was also fine. The reason is, only a Subaru dealer can communicate with main console, to find the source of the problem. Since my Subaru dealer "rips me off", every time I take my car in, I will take my chances if the problem re occurs. If the CEL light goes from solid to blinking, then you really have a problem. Stay Tuned!

My 07 Outback has 136K miles on it. For the past year the cc light starts flashing, and CEL illuminates intermittently. Except for 1 time when this ouccured when accellerating from a stop, the problem consistently occurs when travelling at hwy speed and while using cruise control. However, it doesn't happen every time I use the cruise control. The dealer read the code and then replaced the mass air flow sensor. That didn't work, so they replaced the same sensor again. I got tired of paying for the same repair so now I just carry a wrench with me to disconnect the battery terminal to reset the code. This happens about once a month for the year. There does not seem to be amy other performance problems with the car. Any suggestions?

2006 LLBean Forester with 75k, properly maintained. My CEL is solid, CC flashing for 5 days. Car runs great. The dealer wanted 400 to replace the MAF and I walked away. Reading up on it and going to see this fixes itself over time. I was ALSO told at my last oil change a few months back that both head gaskets were starting to leak and I needed to replace at a cost of $1600. Again, this car drives fine. No misfires, obvious leaks, or spikes in temp. I'm just keeping an eye on the car and my wallet. I might disconnect the battery and see if the lights return. Great thread, thank you!

In reading above answers, I have concluded there is no common denominator that causes CEL solid/CC blinking. Looks like even Subaru dealers don't have definite answer. I, like I think some here, am afraid to take my 2005 forester back to the dealer's service department. They will charge me a lot of money, and it only might, fix the problem? We all have paid good money for our Subaru's, and they are good cars, but should not have to deal with a glitch like this! We should not have to be traveling with wrenches to dis connect our batteries, at least not for the $$$ we paid. Unfortunately, I am pessimistic, that Subaru, would do much to fix this glitch, but sometimes going to the top works. See below. Subaru of America Inc. has named Tomomi Nakamura as CEO effective April 1, taking over from Takeshi Tachimori. Tachimori will return to Japan, where he will be responsible for global sales, including those in the United States, for Subaru's parent company, Fuji Heavy Industries. Subaru of America names Nakamura CEO - Automotive News www.autonews.com/.../subaru-of-america-names-nakamu... Automotive News

It appears to happen when the oil gets low. It happened again to my 2009 forester and the mechanic said I was low on oil. He reset the computer and changed the oil. All better. I have 114K and minor head gasket leaks that don't affect compression. I spent $35 on an oil change and now I'm back in business.

OK... now some time has passed since I *simply* changed oil filters, and I have had no more problems So THAT was the answer - at least for my car. I suspect that there are other things that could cause this, but a clogged, dirty, or poorly designed oil filter that impedes oil flow might be the ridiculously simple cause for most of us. The oil pressure must be monitored after the oil filter, and if its too low, on come the lights. CERTAINLY it is such an easy and cheap fix that everyone should try it before spending hundred$ at some shop for some "repair" that does no good at all.

I had the same problem, I unplugged the battery for about 20 minutes, then plugged it back, then opened the fuel cap and closed it. Started the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes (the CEL and CC lights were still on), then switched of the engine and switched it on and the problem has disappeared. When opening the fuel cap, it looked like it had not been tightened properly, so I dont know which worked, that is, unplugging the battery or opening and closing the fuel cap.

Subaru Forester 2007. I didn't have the lights "problem" UNTIL I changed my oil today, and, as always, a brand new oil filter. It is topped off properly, full. However, maybe I did too MUCH maintenance? I also changed the air filter, transmission fluid, and its filter. Have I taxed the system too heavily? Since reading some of the above comments (THANK YOU ALL! I came here FIRST!), I have gone back and checked, double-checked, all fluid levels, and re-seated the housing for the air filter. And lastly checked the gas cap. I also filled from about 1/4 tank, to full, with premium gas. (I do that on every oil change as well) I have never seen the light combo as mentioned in previous posts. I, too, have the flashing CC light and steady CEL. I now have the battery unplugged, and will leave it so about a half hour from what I have read. I will comment again about the end result.

(Well, I was merely going to append my previous comment, but that function is not present.) I waited the 30 minutes, unscrewed the gas cap, re-seated it firmly, turned the ignition key to ACC, but did not start the care. Waited about a minute (the flashing CC light was gone, but the steady CEL remained) (interesting, the radio's display flashed "SYSTEM CHECK" non-stop...), then turned the key and started the car. All lights were gone/normal display! Again, thank you for all the helpful comments. Perhaps after doing my own oil changes, I will remove the negative battery terminal cable for the duration. I'll check back in about 4,000 miles. ;) Or comment if it pops up sooner.

Same is happening to our 06 Subaru Forester - flashing CC and solid CEL. Our car manual indicates that its a sign the CC has been deactivated... that all. That's why the car still runs fine and no specific fault can be identified. You can inactivate the cruise control by pushing the CC on button or lever as you turn the engine on. Apparently you can reactivate it by turning off and doing the same again. This has worked for me a couple of times - but not now. It won't do it. The car manual is a little vague about this - but perhaps Aannddrreeww's method is the 'key' (pun intended!). Has anyone experience a situation where, by ignoring the flashing CC and solid CEL that the car has suddenly stopped working, failed to start a all, shuddered to a halt in the middle of the freeway or anything dramatic....? If not - then it may not have anything to do with oil, fuel or air at all. The car manual also says that the CEL should be flashing before you panic. Has anyone check the fuses for the CC system??

We did as some here advised..Disconnected neg battery terminal 20 min;reconnected battery then took off gas cap and 're closed it thoroughly(apparently if cap is not on properly it can trigger these lights) then reconnected battery put key in ignition turn key to " first"position but don't turn car on for a few minutes. Then turn car on.We Almost started crying when the cell and cc lights went off! THE FIRST TIME SOMEONE'S ADVICE worked!Good luck!

This works! I still can't believe it! Thank you EVERYONE!

the cruise light flashes because the cruise doesn't work when the check engine light is on. This started happening to us after hitting the front bumper lightly into another vehicle. Turns out the outside air sensor is very sensitive to a bump and needed replaced. disconnecting the battery terminal will turn off the light temporarily but it will come back until the issue causing the the ce light is rectified.

It's great to see so many people fixing this without spending crazy $$$$. My CC/CEL lights are still on after at least 5 weeks. Disconnecting the battery (plus gas cap off and on tightly) didn't work. Nor did fiddling with the CC switches on the dash. Next step is replacing the air filter. And if that fails I will replace the MAF myself rather than drop $400 that the dealer estimated. Blink on!

This happened to me both with my 07 WRX and 06 Forester. Thanks to the reader's contribution, I disconnected the battery for a half hour or so, then re-connected it, and lo and behold, the problem has been solved. :-)

I just brought my 2009 turbo xt forester into dealer for constant check engine light with ABS lit as well as flashing cc. Was told I would need a new air pump for $1100 - $125 diagnostic fee I was charged today. 75k miles. Didn't have it done...thinking it might be time to sell. Any advice?

125 diagnostic fee! Ouch. I dropped $47 at my dealership and am still kicking myself. Apparently autozone will run the codes for free. Interestingly, autozone's diag showed a different part that needed replacing (02 sensor, vs the MAF that the dealer said). Hard to know who to trust. Read the whole thread - disconnecting the battery for a time and retightening the gas cap has worked for many people. Good luck.

See my post above. First time I disconnected/reconnected battery, the problem disappeared but then reappeared. I repeated disconnect/reconnect, and now everything runs normally for the past week.

Dallas Subaru guy... Brilliant!!! 10 mm wrench, disconnect negative pole, wait five minutes, reconnect negative pole, turn key on to maximum before it will crank the engine, wait one minute, turn key start engine! Voila!!! magnificent I love it when life works like that. Someone needs to take Dallas Subaru guy out for dinner and drinks!

Actually, I discovered that disconnecting the battery wipes out the computer data. I found this out when the car could not be tested for emissions control. After driving it around for a while, the flashing "cruise control" indicator + check engine re-appeard....

If the problem(s) that caused the cel/cc/traction control lights to illuminate isn't fixed, disconnecting the battery & resetting the computer will only work temporarily. My 2009 Forester had an intermittent fault causing these lights to illuminate. Eventually the lights remained on continuously. Replacing the catalytic converter has resolved the problem.

This is the greatest discussion. Like most of you, my cruise control light flashed, and the emergency light stayed on. Happened once before and I took it to the dealer. He said it was the gas cap. This time, I looked it up on line. I did as directed by some of you wonderful people--disconnected battery for 30 minutes, cleaned gas cap and area surrounding it, turned on accessories only for five minutes, and started the car. It worked perfectly. For how long this will last, I don't know, but I was pretty proud of myself. Thanks to everyone who wrote with suggestions.

2005 Forester all your doing by disconecting the battery is resetting the code set.Which in turn resets the cruise control.it gets unusable if you get a check Engine light.You can buy a cheap OBD code reader that will reset your codes for $40.No good answer to the problems your all having.My experience with Subaru is that they like to replace expensive parts.When you unplug your battery it resets your codes.your car will need 3 starts to begin to run correctly as the computer has to relearn all the sensors. The OBD cose reader plugs in to a plug just under your steering wheel and takes ten seconds to reset your code.Oxygen sensors are famous for failing on many vehicles.If I will try anything it will be that. For now I just reset my code from time to time

Just had the same problem on my 08 Outback. After about a week, it began having a sluggish start. So, I read all the postings and decided to do the cleanest fix first - not much for getting my fingers greasy and wrecking my nails... :) I bought a new battery and the nice auto parts store guy installed it for me. Voila... the car now starts like it's new and the lights have gone off.

I had the same problem with my 2006 wrx impreza CS9. Engine light came on this morning with the cruise light flashing. Admittedly I did give it a boot full when it happened. The car seemed to drive fine no problems. Both lights still on while driving home from work. Now what I did was unplug a wiring harness that is situated just off the top of the air flow box. It's about 40mm wide. Blew it out with a strong breathe and plugged it back in again. Started the car up and no engine light and no cruise light flashing any more........... for now anyway. Will let you know it the problem comes back. Hope this was helpful.

I have Subaru Forester 2011. (I guess the youngest car in this thread). When started car today in the morning the CEL was on solid, Traction Control on and solid, CC blinking. Bought the car from a dealership 2 months ago and was assured that the car was checked and in a great shape. Brought it to the dealership (i have an extended warranty so no extra costs here). Right now the car is in the mecanic's hands. Will post an update when i ger my Forry back.

Here's my update. I had tried all the 'easy' fixes for the CEL solid and blinking CC to no avail. After months of avoiding it, I dragged it into a trusted mechanic. I had failed inspection and had no choice. As autozone had said in a free check, the O2 sensor was the problem. It was replaced a few weeks ago and the lights have stayed out since. My local Subaru dealership had originally told me that it was the MAF at fault - very glad I never wasted money replacing it. The car was running fine otherwise, but I think a faulty O2 lowers your mileage.

I have a 2010 Forrester with roughly 85,000 miles on it. I have had this light issue before and it resolved its self in a day. We recently had the oil changed and the air filter changed and this has been going on for a month now. At this time the car is in the driveway with the battery disconnected and I am going to attempt theses fixes. I have little hope though. The car has been rattling for over a year since the heat shields were loose and something tells me now there may be catalytic converter issues. Inspection is due January 2015 so if the simple fixes don't work I will most likely be needing a new exhaust syetem...it has been sneaking through inspection for the last 2 years. ALSO I did note that my gas mileage has been crappy. Not sure if this is due to another problem or if it is from warming the car up for 5-10 min to get the interior warm lowering the gas mileage. Will keep you informed.

Following up my previous comment regarding 2011 Forester, the issue was solved in half an hour. I simply did not tighten the gas cap properly and the sensor detected gas fumes. Will have to be tough on this cap from now on :)

I have a 2007 Subaru forester and the solid chech engine light and flashing CC light came on today. I took it to Autozone and they plugged in a code meter underneath the steering column. The code was diagnosed as PO420 which can be one of sverl possible issues such as a sensor, catkytic converter or engine oil leak. I will take th car to the dealer on Monday armed with information from this blog and Autozone before making any repairs. I will also try disconnecting the battery if the dealer suggested repairs are not in line with info in this blog and what Autozone informed me. FYI, the Autozone diagnosis was free. Will follow up this thread with information from dealer diagnosis later.

Tried Chinafromboston's hint and it worked! First time! Thank You

Went to the Subaru dealer yesterday and they cme up with the same diagnostic code as auizone po420. Except this time it ost me $48. The dealer rest the code so the lights at no longer on and recommended I wait to see if the lights come on again. If the lights come on again the next test is to run the car on the highway at a steady speed to graph what the real problem may be. I asked if this next test was accurate as I noted from this blog that diagnosing this problem does not seem to be accurate. They said the next test would pinpoint the problem. I will wait to see if the lights come on again. I am hoping this was just a freak incident and the lights never come on again. Anyone know about this highway graphing road test?

So, funny thing. I have a 2005 Subaru Impreza RS Wagon. About 6 months ago, the ENGINE light came on and the CC light started blinking. I took it to my mechanic, they couldn't figure it out, said maybe it was a gas cap issue. Cleaned cap, etc, didn't go away. Then it would just go away by itself, then come back, then go away. I had them check it and they said not to worry. Seemingly unrelated, by car was burning too much oil (without my knowledge, never had any issues) and car ran out of oil and engine seized. Sucks. Anyway, I put a new (old) engine in the car two weeks ago, car runs great... then engine light came back on and CC is blinking. New mechanic said computer says "misfire" but he doesn't think that's the issue as engine is running smooth. He said maybe I need a new coil. I've ordered a new gas cap as well. So, apparently same ENGINE LIGHT/CC LIGHT issue with two different engines? Maybe it's not the engine?

There in lies the issue with the engine and cc light problem. If they connect a monitor to the plug under the steering column they come up with a code po420 which indicates several possible issues. Which leaves me to believe this is not an easily fixed problem and could lead to costly repairs that don't fix the problem. I did stop at Midas to get second opinion and the manager there was very knowledgable on the po420 problem. According to the Midas manager they can place a scanner on the car and pinpoint the problem. He also recommended trying some of the cheaper solutions first before spending a lot of money on such things like replacing the catalytic converter. If the light comes on again I may try Midas first before the dealer. He did mention he lights usually come back on after riding on the highway.

I had a code for lean gas/02. I replaced the oxygen sensor on bank 1. But didn't work. Paid dealer $900 to find/fix to no avail. Don't bother with the dealer guys. I suspect it is coming from the muffler or fuel system as it really rattles when going uphill. Light is still on, can't use cc but it runs fine otherwise. Bummer. Light always comes back on when on the highway.

I have a 2006 Forester w/117,000 miles. The check engine light and flashing cruise control light came on, I disconnected the battery at other's suggestions, it came back on about 3 days later, I tried the gas cap trick, replaced the air filter and about every other thing that I have read online. I took it to a Subaru dealer who said it was an Oxygen Sensor, I had it replaced for about $400, it has come back on one day later. I called to question their decision, she said the oxygen sensor was bad but they also needed to replace the air fuel sensor also. (For another $400). I think I will do like an earlier poster suggested, put black tape over the lights. Love my Subaru, but I won't be buying another, this should be recalled as Subaru evidently have an extensive problem with this. Class action lawsuit anyone?

It has been about a month since I did the battery disconnect, clean gas cap, etc., to stop the flashing cruise control light and check engine light problem. When using the cruise on a 30-mile trip, it happened again. It is still flashing. I'm getting an oil/filter change tomorrow with my tire company and will seek advice from him (non-dealer opinion). I'll likely disconnect the battery again. Like you, saynotosubaru, I am discouraged about getting another Subaru. This was my first. Will see . . .

Depending on the year of your Forester, and some other vehicles too possibly, you maybe should be getting your catalytic converter replaced for free. I also has the CEL on and had Monro Muffler run the scan FOR FREE. The PO420 code popped up and I was tipped off to a recall on the catalytic converter. I have a 2009 Forester which is having that along with a brake line recall and a rear seatbelt recall worked on today. I will post after I pick my Forester back up to let you know if the problem has indeed been solved.

Do you have any specifics on the catalytic conveter recall from Subaru? My engine light and cc light just went on again after driving on the highway and using cruise control. I pan to take it to the dealer today to diagnose the exact cause. I will ask the dealer about the catalytic conveyer recall.

Here is my update, it isn't good. As I mentioned before I recently had my oil changed and my air filter replaced, since then I have had the CC and CE light issues, I tried all of the "easy" fixes here and none worked. I took it back to the mechanic, asked him to just go back and check all he had done because "usually" this could be a simple fi. No such luck. He showed me the MAF and the wiring or "pig tail" that it was connected to. The MAF had corroded causing the pig tail to corrode as well. At least 1 of the pins inside the MAF was broken off and although the car would still start, it ran badly and if the car or MAF was bumped it would stall. In my past post I had mentioned the poor gas mileage recently well this could be it. Getting the MAF is no problem but the wiring was a pain. Subaru seems proud of this since it runs about $400. I know in some posts people have said they ignored the issue and later on their car just died. I would have ignored it like others had if I was not taking a trip so I figured I would get it looked at to be sure. Had I traveled with this problem, in my case, I probably would have been stranded. So take a look at the MAF connection and make sure there is no corrosion or it may turn into a huge issue. Also, when the MAF connection was disassembled the mechanic said it looked like it had been repaired in the past. I never repaired it or had it looked at but one of the wires had electrical tape around it like it had been repaired. I am getting the part from my mechanic when he is done today and am going to ask Subaru about it. The new part, ordered from Subaru does not have tape on it I was told.

http://www.subaru.com/vehicle- recalls.html Follow this link, put you VIN in and any recalls for your vehicle will pop up.

Thx for he pointer. The dealer informed me I had to rplac the catalytic converter at a cost of $2600. I asked the dealer if Subaru would stand behind their vehicles and pay for some of the repair ost. They said most likely not but I could call Subaru and ask them myself. At this point I am totally fed up with Subaru and their costly repairs and will trade the car in for a new and more reliable toyota Camry. Say goodbye to Subaru forever. I will NEVER buy another Subaru. What a piece of you know what.

My mechanic called me last night and said the part Subaru sent them is the wrong one...seriously? He is going there today to find out WTF is going on. Total repair cost on this is going to be roughly $700 and that is almost all parts since it takes about 10 minutes to install but it is over a week we have been waiting for the parts to come. Although my Subaru is a 2010 and has 85,500 miles on it it hasn't needed anything but maintainance since we bought it but if this continues I will definitely be looking towards other makers. I hope they get a fire under their asses on this and get me the part...or a loaner car (like that would happen).

The number of repairs I have made and the high ost of those airs have been ten times the cost of repairs I have made on my 2003 camry. I've rep,aced half he engine, power steering unit, señor that disables the shifting of gears, front en stabilizers and way bars, timing belt, remove the rusted rear wheel metal shields, weld the heat shields twice and there are more that I probably don't remember. I've had used cars that were better than this car. See you later Subaru. I'm taking my wallet and money elsewhere. The deler wouldn't even call Subaru to see if thy would take responsibllity for some of $2600 to rplace the catalytic converter.

The catalytic converter seems to be the culprit in my case. The dealer replaced it free of charge because it was recalled on my vehicle. On the way home from the dealer I stopped for gas. When I restarted the car the CEL came back on and I lost power when I tried to accelerate. The light stayed on for about 100 miles... ( I travel a lot in one day) the light went off on its own tonight and I've had no issues with power loss when trying to accelerate or slowing down to idle.

Before anyone goes out and gets their Catalytic Converter replaced at a mechanic's suggestion, check this fix (I found it on the recall page as referred to by Subawho - for my 2009 Forester). After I had this done, I have not had the CE/CC light problem. Recall Description for 2006-2009 Models: "WVM23: Engine Control Module (ECM) Reprogramming. During a quality review, Subaru discovered that under certain severe driving patterns, such as high speed highway/uphill driving and/or accelerating with high engine revolutions, the efficiency of your vehicle's catalytic converter may begin to degrade beyond design parameters. (The Check Engine light will illuminate to alert you if the catalytic converter efficiency has degraded beyond an acceptable level and if your vehicle may be releasing air pollutants that exceed Federal or California emission standards.) Safety Risk This is not a safety-related recall. Remedy To prevent this condition, Subaru has developed a modification to the Engine Control Module software logic that will improve management of the catalytic converter. This software change will not adversely affect the performance of your vehicle."

Has anyone replaced the ECM module and at what cost? Did this fix the engine light and CC light issue described in the previous threads.

I just checked the recalls on my 2007 Subaru forester and the ECM module was replaced. All recalls are up to date. So we are back to replacing the catalytic converter.

Well, I said Subaru sent the wrong part...apparently it is the correct part. Imagine this...If you needed to fix the plug at the end of a cord it seems pretty easy right? But imagine the only way you could get this plug was at the end of a cord that also had connections to almost every other appliance in the house. Long story short, over $400 for the part and over 8 hours in labor to replace it according to Subaru. Mechanic is calling junk yards this week to see what he can find. Maybe I will pay for the part and ask if they can just cut the connector off the end and rewire it to existing wire housing in the car....we will see.

Spend $15-20 and get a code reader from Amazon or some other vendor first. If you know what code it is it will ave you a lot of trouble In the past I have had a secondary air valve failure (EXPEWSIVE REPAIR ~$1700). Now I have a p0420 code, which is catalytic converter efficiency, but that could be an oxygen sensor or a vacuum leak or a dozen other things. The code reading tool can clear you codes, and I don't recommend having it looked at until it occurs right after you reset the code, so they don't charge you for diagnosis and find NOTHING. Plus, if you go in and know the codes you can google them so you know how serious it is and the likely causes

You can go to the AutoZone store and they will read your codes for free. I did this first and tats where I first revived the po420 code. They give you a pint out of what he code means. The po420 code oes point to several possible issues as you have stated. I brought this up with the Subaru dealer and they insisted it was the catalytic converter. In fact when checking the cost of $2600 to replace the catalytic converter I found the dealer was overcharging me anywhere from $1000 to $1500 based on what other shops near me where charging for that service. What a rip off.

OK, Called Subaru regarding the issue. The wire housing I need to replace (due to a corroded clip on the end of it) is $1500 and requires 8-10 hrs of labor to put in. They said once the job is done by my mechanic to send them the invoice and they will see if they can help me on cost of the part. I'm pretty sure I am going to do my best to Mickey Mouse this repair and unload this thing ASAP. I bought this Subaru due to the good things I have heard of them standing behind their product....not any more. They can stuff this car and all the BS it has caused me this Christmas season. I hope when they do the half-asses fix on this it works.

Like you I bought my Subaru because I thought it was a reliable car. I've spent more on repairs for my Subaru then any other cars I have owned. What I have found is not only is my Subaru unreliable but the cost of repairs are very expensive. I would NEVER buy another Subaru.

Have had 2 Subies (2002 WRX Sportwagon 115,000 and 2006 Forester XT 73,000). And while both had a fairly big problem under warranty, the WRX has been nearly trouble free. The Forester has had a few EXPENSIVE fixes, though. Overall, the Subies tend to be relatively trouble free, but repairs are VERY high. If you contact Subaru of America, and the problem is one that is common, they will somethimes cut a a deal with the dealer to give you a break (I have had repair costs cut in half). The dealer has to be on your side, though.

Just to follow on my post; I've had this problem with an old engine, then it died and I put a new (used) engine. Solid engine light and flashing cruise. Got a new gas cap, no change. Light was on for a couple days then went off just in time for inspection. Then it came back on for a week so I took to mechanic. What I got from them was a Error Codes PO 303 and PO 304. They put new sparkplugs and tested compression. Lights went off.... for about 30 miles. Now they're back on. Aaargh!!!!

Mine is an 07 outback. Everything was fine till I had Advance Auto Parts install a new battery. During installation the guy put the battery posts on in the wrong, I found from a service station friend later, order. Immediately the flashing cruise light and the CEL came on. Drove it to my service station friend and he found a bad fuse in the engine compartment. Change the fuse and the lights went away for a month. Then they came back on and I pulled and replace all the fuses in the engine compartment, as the were all okay, and the lights went away. The Just came on again today. Rats! I can't believe someone hasn't figured out what this really is!!!

I don't think you can put the battery posts wrong can you? Wouldn't that like short-circuit something? Sucks it won't go away for you either.

I don't have an answer, but a question...My CEL light/cc came on, took it to the dealer and said I needed a new engine cooling fan. I read a lot of posts, put premium gas in my car, tightened gas cap and 2 days later lights went off...Dealer had ordered part, $400, but I cancelled my appt...should I wait till it comes back on? My car runs great...2006 Outback, 125,000 miles....

I don't know. I took mine again and they were like "your sparkplugs and your cables look bad but we did a compression test and that looks OK. It's reading like a misfire". Lights went away... for 2 days. Now I've had it on for 2 weeks. No clue. I also got a new gas cap. Didn't matter.

Okay, this is the process that will save you grief, and maybe a lot of money. When that light comes on, your cruise control is flashing and inoperable as well. Get on Amazon and buy an inexpensive sncanner that can read and clear your codes (Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles which is $19.99 on Amazon, but I have seen this and others for $15). Read the code and look it up on google or in the book that comes with the scanner: it will tell you if it is the misfire or your gas cap, or multiple codes (this can happen). Then ERASE the codes. Don't bring it in for repair until the code pops up predictably or you are wasting your time and money. They will only find the problem when it appears all the time.

My new gas cap didn't help, either. Think I'll try your scanner . . . if I can figure out how to use it . . . I've seen that suggestion before on the blog so I might as well try. Thanks.

It is becoming apparent to me that the one fix is to disconnect the battery for a short while. By doing that you reset the error code and it has taken me anywhere from 1 to 3 days before the check engine light and cruise light come back on. Subaru dealers cannot fix the problem so a clearing of the error code and battery disconnect will keep the customers happy for a few days before the lights reappear. Just my opinion.

A few things to point out: 1) Disconnecting the battery for 5-10 min simply erases all the fault codes. These were your best source of info and you erased them. 2) The CC flashing simply means the engine computer decided it does not want you to use the CC anymore with this fault code in place. The CC flash is a symptom, not a cause. 3) Unless you run sh@tty gas (WalMart, Kroger,) every day, every time, your Cat Converter should last 200K miles. Period. 4) Check your oil every time you buy gas. The Subaru boxer engines burn oil, they just cannot help it. If the oil gets 2 qt low they quit burning oil, but the engine wears out at 3X the rate that it should. 5) Subaru boxer engines leak oil after 65K miles. Spend all the money you can stand, they will leak again after another 20K miles. See #4 above, check the oil level. 6) Subarus are for car people. The kind that open the hood and know what they are looking at. If you want to forget how to open the hood, buy a Honda, second best would be Toyota. This is why you hear good things about Subarus - some people (me too) really like them. But you need to know what you are signing up for. Kind of like the difference between owning a cat or a dog. The dog needs some love and attention. The cat needs almost nothing other than fuel. Now for something constructive: Buy a $50-80 code reader from WalMart or Autozone. I have one I bought 6 years ago from WalMart for $80 and it has saved me easily $2000 since then. Yes you can get codes from Autozone and look them up on the internet. The problem is with a lot of cars, the problem is just a glitch, or temporary hiccup in the engine (misfire, emission fart, gas cap burp). With YOUR code reader, you can read the code, and if it indicates anything with emissions, just erase all codes and see if it comes back. If it comes back as soon as you start the car, then MAYBE it worth a trip to the mechanic. I would want to see it come back (the same code) over and over before I got too excited. This applies only if the car runs OK.. If it is seriously limping, erasing a code will not help. Background: Lifetime engine fixer. Started on lawnmowers at age 11. cars, boats, jetskis, model planes, motorcycles, minibikes, tractors, 2-strokes, diesels, since 1969. Mechanical engineer. Motorcycle racer for over 40 years. On my 4th Subaru, all bought used with over 90K miles. Ran most of them up to 200K. Current one, 2006, has 140K. PS: When your TV show goes to commercial, run out and check you oil level. PPS: Read the owners manual on HOW to read the oil level. It not like a normal car! Quicky oil change places tend to screw it up.

JMM111 Flashing CC, and solid CEL The first time this happened, I was overdue for an oil change, and local mechanic was able to reset. Lights came back two days later. Local mechanic reset again, but told me only a Subaru dealer would be able to find the cause. This time no lights for four months. I will never go back to my Subaru dealer, as they have totally "ripped me off" So I stay with local mechanic. Lights came back a third time yesterday, and I needed my car inspected anyway. I have been told the following. Tech scanned, and got code PO171, system to lean bank 1. Tech cleared code for now, but lights may come back. I am told this is due to my oxygen sensor going bad. They are ordering the part, and will replace for about $140. I am going for it, so will keep all posted. I really still like my 2005 Forester, and feel especially safe when driving in snow.

I have a 2010 Outback. It has 132000 miles on it. These lights started flashing at about 30000 miles. The dealer reset them the first time for $90. They would come on with a simple jerk of the car and for no apparent reason. Sometimes, just filling the air in the tires turned them off. Other times, filling the gas helped, or so it seemed. I took it in for maintenance like timing belt and water pump, spark plugs at 120,000 miles.($1200) A week later the radiator cracked and the blue overheating light came on. This is the really bad light! I had the radiator repaired ($400)and drove the car to San Diego. (170 miles) After a particularly long uphill and downhill part of the drive the car overheated again, blue engine light came on but not the CEL, exploding coolant all over my engine. I filled the coolant up and had the car towed to the dealer. They told me the lines to the radiator had not been bled and there was a software update for the CEL light. ($240) The lights went off for about a week and then the blue light came on again exploding coolant all over my engine. This time I had coolant in my car and filled the radiator back up. I took it back to the mechanic who had done the previous work, and he kept it for a couple of days and ran many tests on it. He told me the car was losing pressure going uphill and he thought it was a head gasket issue. $1800. I had it fixed with a mechanic from the Subaru dealer on the side for $1200. A week later the CEL lights came on again. I took it to him and he put the scanner on it and it said the gas cap was lose. It was not. He cleaned it and reset the lights. That was last Thursday. Today the check engine light came on again! I am so frustrated at this car. It runs great and has no rattles or sputters. I put only good gas and synthetic oil in it. I am going to Mammoth in three weeks and so worried about a break down. The last two times I drove to San Diego to see my Marine, I rented a car, as I cannot trust this car on long drives anymore it would seem.

See my answer above and BUY A SCANNER so whenever a code appears, you can search it online and see what the likely cause and fixes are. The head gasket might be wrecked from overheating, but knowing the codes can only help.

I did just buy one after reading your post! Thanks

Btw davidjmel I fixed the head gaskets. I got a deal from a subaru mechanic on the side at $1200. It's just so frustrating that after $4000., this CEL is still an issue

Hope they changed the thermostat... it is cheap and should have been changed with the first overheat/radiator repair. That won't cause a code by itself, but running hot causes all kinds of damage...

I don't think they did!

If it overheats again, have the thermostat changed before anything else: it is not expensive, but use the GENUINE SUBARU part (aftermarket thermostats are not as reliable)

Aftermarket thermostat is less than $10 for the part, and brand is $20-25. ANY mechanic can replace, but make sure they know how to purge air.

So I emailed Subaru about this issue. The light is still on after three days. Here is there reply. Thoughts? Thank you for your message and the additional information. I certainly understand your frustration if the check engine light seems to be coming on frequently. While I realize this is annoying for you, a solid check engine light usually indicates a minor fault, such as an oxygen sensor or other emissions related part. As long as the engine is running normally you should be fine to drive the vehicle until your Subaru service department diagnoses the cause and corrects the fault. Until the fault is corrected the cruise control and vehicle dynamics control will be temporarily deactivated. Since your Subaru retailers last inspection did not correct the issue I would suspect that they may need a little more time to track down the cause of the light. Although I have seen cases where the diagnosis was more challenging, I have never encountered a situation where a check engine light could not be corrected. If you would like to arrange to leave your Subaru with a Subaru retailer service department for a few days to help facilitate in an extended diagnosis, I would be pleased to cover any loaner or rental vehicle charges during the inspection. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Sincerely, Grant Noble Subaru of America, Inc. Customer/Dealer Services Department 1-800-SUBARU3 (1-800-782-2783) Service Request Number: 1-8931988610

It is a form letter: I would either buy a code reader (see earlier post above) or stop at an Autozone or other auto parts retailer who will read the codes (and reset the check engine light) for free. THEN go to Subaru and ask what they want to do. I would also contact Subaru of America and complain about the number of problems and the failure to repair in a reasonable number of visits, after great expense. My experience is that they will work with loyal customers.

I did buy a code reader and it came today. I don't think that was a form letter as they offered to pay for my rental car for an extended diagnosis. My fear is that they will try to sell me a CC. I think I am going to have the 02 sensor replaced and thermostat. I can have that done somewhere other than Subaru for a fraction of the cost. Thanks for your help

What codes were on the car, and did they come right back when you reset them? Good luck, your plan sounds good.

I was just going to ask you how I get into my panel to plug this in. I saw the mechanic put it under the steering wheel somewhere, but I am not sure where. I thought about looking at the owner's manual but I am fairly certain that information won't be in there. Thanks

Bottom of the dash on the left, next to hood release. See image. http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/checkengine.html Make sure to put car in "0n" position, insert obd-II scanner, hit enter, then scroll to codes, hit enter, then write down code number(s). Scroll to see them. It will say how many (could list active and pending codes). There is an option to clear them. Clear the codes (car may be VERY hard to start after) and see how long they take to return. Troubleshooting is very hard if the codes don't come back quickly. The accompanying book is helpful for identifying what the code means, but the BEST solution is to Google the code with your year and model.

I found it! I did it and it reads P0457 which according to the book means EVAP emissions control system leak cap off or loose. I erased them. You are right had trouble for a minute starting my car but just turned it off for a minute and then no problem. I have no idea what this means but will look up as you suggest. Thank you so much!

Loose or bad gas cap? (Gasoline filler cap)

That is what the Subaru dealer said a week ago. I have checked on this blog and apparently lots of people have bought new gas caps and that has not helped. I suppose I could try it. For now, I am reset and no lights are blinking. I thought I would wait and see if this is a repetitive code before I start throwing money away.

If the gas cap is tight, then ask your mechanic to check the hoses that connect to the engine from the vapor recovery system: I had a repair done on a 2002 WRX and a loose hose on the intake manifold was causing that code. It was 4 inches of rubber tubing that they sell by the foot at the auto parts store. They didn't even charge me for the tubing because the piece was so small. Finding it requires pulling on the hoses (they push onto a metal nipple or plastic valve or whatever). This is the toughest thing to find because it could be ANYWHERE from the gas tank to the vapor canister behind the back bumper to the intake manifold. But that is ALMOST CERTAINLY the cause. Replacing the gas cap is worth it just to rule out the problem, but probably won't help.

Looks like lots of things can cause this. I've been told by a non-dealer Subaru mechanic that I need to replace some item that sits on top of my gas tank. What really PISSES me off though, is that the Subaru engineers have baked a shutdown of the cruise control into whatever the cause of the CEL. I think that's arrogance ("gets your attention, doesn't it" I've been told) and my solution is a non-Subaru with my next car purchase.

I had a similar issue with my 2007 Outback XT (Note the engine is identical except for the turbo which was not the issue.) where the check engine light would come on particularly in the cold. The Intake Manifold gaskets were leaking air, which tripped the CEL with code P0171. The gaskets were redesigned to seal better. Replacing the gaskets cost me about $350 (most of that labor) sine then, no issues. If you have it done, make sure to have them do both the upper and lower gaskets since it isn't much more in labor costs as they have it apart there anyways.

09 Forester 120,000 mi. Same issue, will report back with findings.

Send the information to Subaru of America! They offered to pay for my rental car but I'm going to ores them to fix it! Ive been dealing with this for 4 years

Thx for the info Dana. However I refused to deal with or pay Subaru another dime or waste anymore of my valuable time dealing with this ccl issue. I recently purchased a 2015 Toyota Camry and I am one happy camper. I wil NEVER purchase another Subaru.

My gas cap was missing, replaced. Now need to reset the warning lights

The light will reset after a number of start/stop cycles and driving miles. Alternatively, go to autozone or others who will check/clear codes for free, or buy the unit that does that for <$20 (see my earlier post)

Hi David. I did buy it and have to clear it every three days. Its quite irritating. Thanks

If you have to keep resetting it is not the gas cap: what codes are showing up every three days?

P0457 same every time. I am going to reset it again now. Ugh

When that happened to me it was just after a recall/service bulletin for leaking fuel lines, so I knew where they had been working. It can be leaking almost anywhere in the vapor recovery system from the gas tank to the intake manifold of the engine. Was this after any service? If so you may be able to get them to look at it without running up major bills

I have had this problem since the car was just a year old when it went off the first time. However, it did not keep going off every three days. Yes the car has been serviced by a non Subaru dealer who did the water pump and the tune up, as well as the timing belt. The car began promptly overheating after that and there was a crack in the radiator which I released. Then I had a Subaru mechanic work on the head gaskets which were losing pressure due to the car overheating. Since then the car repeatedly turns the CEL light on. I am going to Mammoth this weekend which is 300 miles one way. I am hoping the car doesn't act up but it runs fine!!! It is not running rough at all. I think you may be right about the hoses. I think I will contact Subaru and tell them, that rather a rental car,, which they offered me, how about they just fix the problem.

With all the work that has been done, something is leaking: a vacuum leak could cause the overheating, and they should be able to find that. I would bite the bullet and have them diagnose it, just to avoid another cascade of failures. Show them how much you have spent and let them know that you have reached your limit. Good luck.

I have a 2010 2.5 Forester model, and it did this to me today. It is DEFINITELY a gas-cap issue in the later models; I had the gas filled the day before yesterday. So I removed the gas cap today, retightened it, and the lights went right off. Minor glitch -- WHEW, so glad this forum's here :D

Same thing happened with my 2006 Forester 2.0..... Just tightened the gas cap and done.... This may have been created by factory for services to earn money ???? Shame on Subaru.

Not sure this is directly related, but I think I should post this. This morning my Subaru Impreza 2006 couldn't start. The Check Engine Light on. The Cruise Control light (CC) on, but went off after several second. I had the CC light blinking before and had it fixed by disconnecting the battery. But, this time I tried disconnecting the battery and it did not work. I also tried what people suggested here by disconnecting for 30 minutes, and opening and closing the fuel cap, it did not work either. Felt frustrated and thinking what I should do next. I was about to give up what I was trying, then I notice that my brake light was on and the fuel light was on. So I thought I should release my manual brake and try it again, and for some reason I also hit the brake below when I turn the engine on. All of sudden, the car started. That was certainly a feeling difficult to put in words. Honestly I did not know what had happened, but the problem went away!

A lot of Foresters here... I have a 2007 Impressa that just had major work done related to a cracked head. $2500. The CEL and CC light just came on this morning. Tightening the gas cap didn't work, decided not to disconnect battery terminal after reading these. Thanks for all of the info. I have a long daily commute through a remote area and didn't want to take any chances so called in sick today not knowing what was going on!

Thank you to "Dallas_Subaru answered about a year ago". un hooked the negative battery terminal and did as Dallas Subaru suggested and it worked. Yay save me time and money!

2009 Forester...same conditions: Blinking CEL, Blinking Cruise, solid Traction light and only running on three cylinders. The problem was an arcing spark plug wire. Problem solved with set of new wires. Don't let the dealer or anyone else rip you off. When a cylinder drops, it's because of lack of spark. Check your oil often as well. These engines burn it quick. Get a bottle of Restore engine restorer, which is an additive to your oil after your next oil change.

2006 Subaru Impreza, all I had to do was pop the hood and the light turned off.

typing from phone. please excuse spelling

last year i was told i needed an ecm. i take it to the Subaru dealer and ask for an ecm. they run a 150 dollar diagnostic on it. Tell me i need spark plug cables. 450 later, lights come on. take it back, they say i need a solenoid. 500 later, lights come back on. in all this, they replaced exhaust system, cat converter, and all recall stuff. lights still on. they tell me i need a wiring harness now. comes down to, i need an ecm. THE ECM DIAGNOSES OTHER THINGS, BUT CAN'T DIAGNOSE ITSELF. SO IT THROWS UP CODES. A SUBARU MECHANIC SHOULD KNOW THIS !

2015 Outback, same solid CEL, blinking CC, blinking X-mode. Just 6000 miles. Took to dealer once. Was told none of these lights came on. Took it home. 3 days later, all the lights on again. From above, sounds like my saga is just beginning.

should still be under warranty. make them fix it.

Same problem with my 2010 Forester. Thanks a lot.

I have not had my 2005 forester worked on in 6 months since I last has local mechanic reset everything. I was told I needed a new Oxygen sensor or the lights would just come back. They have, I now ignore them completely. I interesting thing is they come, and go away. They might last for a few days, and disappear for several weeks. recently they have not come back on at all. Who can figure?

I have a 2006 forester that does it occasionally. I had it checked at like auto zone and they told me one thing but once I changed the oil both lights went off. Every time it's been the same thing. I just got my oil changed today and the lights didn't go off. The place that changed the oil made a note on my receipt they gave me that said the oil pan is damaged, but not badly enough that it leaks. I've never seen any oil on the ground where it's parked or anything but it does seem to burn oil or something because they also said there was no oil on the dipstick. I'm not exactly sure what it's doing but it worries me. Any ideas?

Hello, this forum was very helpful. Wanted to share my solution to this problem. My 2010 forester had check engine light and traction control light come on with blinking cruise indicator light. No change with tightening gas cap. Noted car was very dirty /dusty from leaf blowing near it. Took car in for wash, including underbody, and lights went off. And from reading other posts, fingers crossed they stay off!

The check engine light will go off after a few start cycles if the problem does not recur. It is beyond unlikely that cleaning your car had anything to do with the problem. Next time, go to a car chain like autozone that will do a free code read and computer reset to determine the code faults. That way if they recur, you know what you need to have fixed. Intermittent codes are the WORST, and you should consider spending $20-25 for a code reader.

What is with everyone disconnecting their batteries? Spend $25 or less (https://www.dailysteals.com/p/60302/Vehicle-Diagnostic-Scan-Tool?__r=1) and reset the computer with the scan tool AFTER you read and lookup the offending code(s). You will never solve the problem if you don't at least have a code. As far as Carriemou's question, start with easiest first and check the vapor hoses for leaks. I had a 2002 WRX with a hose that had hardened and stretched and was all the way onto the metal nipple, but was actually loose and leaking.

Hello, I have a subaru forester 2007. Reading all these problems everyone is having is like looking in a mirror because i am having them too. Disconnecting the battery doesnt repair your car people!! It only hides the fact the your check engine light is on. So from what i am seeing there are 3 common issues. ALL of which my car had problems with. When you check engine light is on in a 07 subaru forester the most likely causes are: 1)oil burning up or is too low/need new oil filter 2) bad catalytic converter 3) need a new gas cap for those who said they drove way over their oil change limit, you are lucky your car works!! my oil burned up and i hadnt realized (as my oil changes are every 5000 miles) and my engine blew... it was 6000 to replace. then my check engine light came on again after replacing my engine and i had to replace the catalytic converter for 1800. now my codes are legit clear but i cant pass smog until the sensors retest which apparently i need to drive 200 miles before this happens? anyway i love subarus but i am disappointed about all the expenses ive been having. i hoping this is the last of my problems with it and i will continue to love my car. hoping the best for everyone as well.

You can buy a sensor at Amazon for less than 20 and it will clear them immediately. My check engine light stays on unless I do this every three days. it is probably the catalytic converter but the car has 140000 miles on it and they should last until 200000. I am pissed at Subaru for this issue.

My light problem is solved. I sold the car and bought a Merc !! I still love Subarus but they need to try harder on the quality front.. By the way , Merc's roadholding no match to Forester's..

I have a XV 2014 and a couple of months ago it happened to me. I went to my dealer and told me that it was a problem with the EC sensor and it will cost 400 bucks! went to my local mechanic and told me that Subaru has this issue. He told me "its a great car, super loyal and for that reason the manufacturers needed to do something for the machine to start having problems and sell more parts" So they did that. They scan the computer and Voila!!!! Problems with the EC sensor... they reset it again and star to drive it with no problem for 2 weeks and AGAIN!. Went back to the local mechanic and scan it again and now it appears "poor injection", so they work on the injection part and told me after "the injector wwere very very dirty, that was the problem", reser the computer again (that was last week). I was driving and yesterday AGAIN!! I´m thinking that it could be a misfire, because i´m also having trouble with the everymorning turning on of the car... It doesn´t turns on as usual... it takes one or two seconds to start... That´s also a problem for me. Today in the morning I opened the gas tap and closed it with pressure to see what can happen, and NOTHING! I´m gonna try doing a full motor and underhood cleaning of the car. I´m going to try all the alternatives I can, before spending more money in things that will not work out. I will let you know guys!

I have a 2010 Subaru Forrester. My car is constantly in and out of this state... check engine light on, ABS light on, blinking cruise control light. I've spent a lot of money over the years having mechanics check the codes and clear the system. To date, there has never been a code. The lights clear up on their own after a few weeks sometimes. I just live in constant fear that my car is going to explode or something, and I can't use cruise control. Even the dealership is helpless. It started in Year 1, and I purchased the vehicle new from the dealership. I know people love this brand, but I think I probably would not purchase a second Subaru. I can hardly wait until it finally breaks down and I can buy a different SUV!

Hi all. I just had the CC lights flashing and the engine light come on. I have a 2005/6 Turbo Forester. I read lots of your posts. I looked under the bonnet, lifted the lid off the fuse box and saw a fuse that read Engine Controls. In my car it is a double sided 30amp fuse. It is located at the front, headlight end, of the fuse box. I pulled it out, blew on it and its housing and put it back. Something was re-set as all the lights have gone off. Me happy, hope it helps. Doug

I have a 2006 Forester. First two times this happened, it went away after 1) sitting overnight 2) putting in fresh gas. Now it's back and not going away. Just had it in for an oil change and the dealership reset the code and it went away but showed up again later that day after I picked it up. I'll double check the gas cap next, see if that is the cause. Though don't know why the cruise control light would be flashing. You would think someone at Subaru would figure this out. I love my car but this seems to be an odd problem to have. I was wondering if disconnecting the cruise control, if that's possible, would do the trick? It's not like I can use the cruise now :)

I have been driving with this for almost a year. This is a Subaru screw up and they offer no fix, so costly repairs that don't work. I suggest you do what I did, put tape over the two lights and ignore. The only actual fix is to disconnect the battery but odds are is that the lights will return in anywhere from 1-3 days.

I'm convinced the CEL and the disabling of the cruise control is a deliberate engineering choice of the Subaru engineers. Buy a $15 code reader and clear the code if you want your cruise back. I however have moved on and bought a 2016 Honda Allwheel CRV. How do you like them apples, Subbie?

Mine has been doing this since year one. It used to happen once in a while. Now it is every three days. I bought a code reader and I reset it twice a week. Everything else works great on the car. I just can't believe that I have to deal with us. I replaced the gas cap and it stopped doing it for a blessed ten days. Then it began again!

Oh btw, mine is an Outback 2010 not a Forrester

First off, it is model year specific: my 2002 WRX does not turn of the cruise when the CEL is on, but my 2006 Forester does. The 2002 only had it once, and replacing the DEAD oxygen sensor (pre-heater failed) fixed it. The 2006, however, has had a few issues: the air valves in the exhaust manifold (no idea what is up with these, but if you search the code you find a LOT of unhappy people) get stuck, and the code is intermittent, often going months without occurring. Reset for 2 years until it wouldn't go away, then fixed it. Now have a code indicating low catalytic converter efficiency (which could be the converter or a bad oxygen sensor, I think), and it has gone away as long as 8,000 miles, and as frequently as 400. Just get a code reader and reset until it comes back on. Only then can you be sure what has gone bad.

I get the same code every time. P0457. Occasionally get a P0420.

P0457 is usually loose or bad gas cap, but can be a cracked or loose vacuum hose somewhere on the intake manifold... the P0420 is related to catalyst efficiency, and can be a bad sensor or bad catalytic converter. I would check the gas cap (cheap enough to replace) and search for vacuum leaks (vacuum hoses can be hard to get to but are cheap (they sell them by the foot at auto parts stores. The catalyst code is annoying, and I would by a cheap scanner that erases the codes and do that until it stays on even after reset. Then diagnosis is easy.

Thank you. I do have a scanner and do reset it. It seems to be coming on more frequently. I changed the gas cap and had ten days of relief, then back to erasing every three days. Last April in Mammoth it did not go off at all, which made me think it was some sort of oxygen issue. Who can check the vacuum hoses besides the dealer.

Again, these codes are almost certainly unrelated, although it is a slight possibility that the vacuum leak is mucking up the ability of the system to maximize catalyst efficiency. Any mechanic can check the vacuum hoses, and if you know somebody who works cheap, it may just pay to have them try to search. The hoses start at the charcoal vapor cannister near the rear axle and travel to the gas tank and up to the engine to recycle gas fumes. I don't know the correct procedure, but I believe you should be able test all the connections, look for visible cracks or chafing, or even to pump a small amount of air into a hose and listen for leaks elsewhere (hissing). This is all labor, so ask around the neighborhood for a good honest mechanic. In my 2002 WRX I had a 4 inch hose that had hardened with age and was sitting on the nipple it connected to, but would slide on and off with no resistance. Looked perfect bu no seal. $1 worth of hose and code gone.

I have a 04 Subaru Forester XT and it had Flashing cruise control light and check engine light on and so I went under the hood and checked it and apparently it had one of the booster silonoid hoes torn and so I replaced it and ran it for a mile, left it off for an hour came out turned it on and the check engine light and cruise control light were off

I changed my battery today, it went smoothly -+/+- sequence. When I started up the car the dash looked like a Christmas tree, blinking CEL, cruise, traction control, etc. I was worried but read the post above from the Dallas Subaru guy, remove - 10 minutes, replace, re-tighten gas cap, turn key all the way to one spot before starting engine, leave for a couple minutes, turn over, no alarm lights! Thank you very much!!!!! I was worried I had fried something. Wish I could buy someone a drink for that advice. 2011 Subaru Forester FB25 engine.

Have a 2011 Forester, engine light, blinking cruse light and traction light on. Disconnected the negative on the battery and reconnected it, fixed the problem... reboots the computer! Cheers!

Had a 2005 Forester with 110k miles a few years ago, all this is deja-vu. But let me be honest here, i disliked pretty much everything about it. Driving with windows rolled down was like sticking my face on an industrial fan while going deaf, opening a slit on the window while raining was like being outside. That heavy gas pedal was a nightmare in gridlock. It burned a quart every week, to a point where it felt like changing oil was pointless, MPG sucked for a 4 cyl, i never felt so compelled to leave a big gap to the car in front of me. It was so unconfortable in long drives, sound system sounded like an AM radio from 100 years ago. Just got it because my wife got all impressed with that Subaru love commercial shenanigans, and i couldn't apply brainwash. The next 2 years, it just felt it was constantly falling apart. Everyday was a dread driving it to work. CEL light on was a way of life, not giving a damn about it was routine. All sorts of problems all the time. True story: one day i was so fed up with it, i just sat inside ranting how much of a pos it was. Got out and kicked a wheel, slammed the hood, spat on it. Next day, CEL went off for the first time in months. For about 5 days. Guess slamming the hood got something back in place >.> Gave it as a trade in for a non Subaru, paying little more then paperwork, because it would never pass safety inspection with some serious money thrown on it. Dealership dudes gave me 4k value on it, i told them nothing about the debacle. Sold in 2 days, mercy on the poor soul who got it. Hope they got it for parts, even then, doubt there was much to salvage from it. Due to work schedule differences, me and wife had to quit the shared daily 45 mile x 2 commute and get her a car. Guess what she picked. A 2007 Forester. I cried deep inside, because i knew arguing would accomplish nothing. Like selling a haunted house and moving into another. She was happy with her Subaru love at first sight, wouldn't even let me check the fluids, test drive it, that was it. I was 99% sure the dealer had cleared the permanent CEL that define the Subaru character. 2 days later, CEL on, CC on. She called me; "my car is broken! engine light is on! What should i do?". Why wasn't i surprised. I told her that she should be used to it by now, as it was with the other Subaru. Now, my 210k miles 2005 Malibu is happy for not having to haul the extra weight, mpg went up to 25 in horrid traffic, purrs like a kitty, i get to drive with windows rolled down, no matter how cold it is outside. It's old, but let me tell you, driving a dinosaur car with 0 issues is a very, very satisfying experience compared to owning a Subaru.

I read on a dealer's Web site that, beginning in 2005, Subaru programmed the cruise control light to flash and the cruise control to stop working anytime a CEL goes off (to motivate customers to get the problem checked out). Don't know if that's true, but it makes sense and if true means we should not focus on the CC light blinking. The other useful point (if true) was that if the CEL is solid, and the engine seems to be running fine, there is no urgency or need to stop driving it--just get it checked soon. As noted above, Advanced Auto will check codes for free. (I just ordered a code checker to keep in my glove box from Amazon--not expensive). I believe the site said if the CEL is flashing that could be serious, and if it is red it means shut it down immediately and have it towed in--or bad things might happen. I didn't know this and found it helpful. I bought a new 1999 Forester and put 120,000 miles on it with almost no problems (as I recall I had to replace an oxygen sensor or two and the alternator along with the usual tires, brake pads, battery, wiper blades, oil, etc.). GREAT car, and my EX is still driving it with over 150,000 miles. Got my son a 2015 Forester for a college graduation present, and he loves it (but less than 2 years old--not even broken if for a Subaru). This week I bought myself a 2005 L.L. Bean Forester with 120,000 on it, because I need to be able to haul my trailer on occasion and my son in moving from VA to TX. Also, we just had a major (18") snow and I was stranded for 5 days--my Prius gets great gas mileage, but is not a good snow plow. My '99 Forester was GREAT in heavy snow. The 2005 Forester looks and runs almost like new except about 70 miles after I bought it the CEL went on and the guy at Advanced Auto said the code referred to the gas cap. We opened and closed the gas cap, he reset the code, and it ran great with no light for 3 days. Came on again today, same code. I bought a new gas cap, but the AA guy said he was not allow to reset the code so the CE light stayed on the rest of my drive home. Will get it checked out next week. Before buying it, I had it checked out by a Subaru dealer who gave it a clean bill of health, but am putting it into the shop next week for 120,000-mile maintenance--tuneup, change brake fluid, oil, general checkup, and to install a trailer hitch. I've heard stories about Subaru vehicles running strong at 250,000 miles without major engine or transmission work, and hope this one doesn't turn out to be a lemon. (This is a GREAT site--very helpful.)

I can tell your that it is not the gas cap. I got one of those code readers and it is always the same P0457. I replaced the gas cap and the CEL light went off for ten days. But now I have to clear it every three dAYS. It drives me crazy but there is nothing wrong with the car other than that.

I have been scouring the internet for some help with similar problems. I have a 2002 Subaru Forester. 175,000 miles In the year that I've owned it, I've had most of the symptoms described above. Shuddering, flashing CEL, repeated CEL, codes for misfiring. I've had the spark plugs replaced, the spark plug wires replaced, both O2 sensors replaced, and the ignition coil replaced TWICE. Here's my dilemma: I am moving out of the country for at least a year. I want to sell it. Since the last repair over a month ago, it's had no problems. Can I in good honesty sell this car? Since the symptoms haven't emerged again, based on the fixes I've had done, is there a good chance it will have a meltdown again? Are these problems going to keep cropping up until it gets a fuel injector flush and new valves? Somehow, I feel like walking into a mechanic asking them to look at anything is just like walking into a lion den and asking if they're hungry... Thanks for any input/ advice.

Check engine light on - cruise light flashing - followed Dallas Subaru's procedure - All is well - Thanks Dallas Subaru!

I own a 2005 Subaru Forester (non-turbo). Have had a 420 error code and CEL for more than a year. Not a big deal until this year when it had to pass emissions to be registered. My cheap code reader only indicated the 420 code, but the shop I had diagnose the problem also found an EGR code. Had them fix that first and looked for cheaper non-subaru converter option. Didn't need it. CEL came on shortly after the repair, but I cleared the code, ran some fresh gas with fuel additive, banged on the converters a few times with a broom handle, and the light didn't come on after 30+ miles of hard driving. Passed emissions this morning. Now good for another 2 years.

After repeated incidents in which the CEL came on and I "fixed" the problem by opening and closing the gas cap (and resetting the code), I searched on eBay and found a factory original gas cap for a 2005 Forester. Put that on about 10 days ago, and thus far all is well. I'm guessing that after 11 years something in the gas cap vent or seal went bad, and the new cap fixed the problem. Then again, perhaps the CEL will go on when I drive home tonight . . . .

We have an 09 forester and had the same issue, we had an oil change and had them reset the computer but it came back on, they said it was reading a misfire on 3rd cylinder. Told my hubby to get a gas treatment, he got one that you have to put in on nearly empty and after a day the lights went off.

I'd like to thank all the suggestions in this forum. I have a 2010 impreza and the solid CEL, CC flashing and solid vehicle dynamics control off while I was driving on the highway. I had an oil change 5 days prior and a put gas in 3 days prior. I checked the gas cap and it was indeed a bit loose. I tightened it and reset the negative terminal in the battery and the lights are no longer present. Only problem when I reset the battery was the idle air control valve was reset so it's stalled a few times on the way home. This I am not too worried about because the same thing happened when I swapped out my car battery, the computer will eventually learn the appropriate idle rpm. I will update if anything changes. Thank you all.

Had same issue repeatedly off and on for last year and half. Tried fixes above and cleaned mass airflow some worked for short periods. Eventually took to Firestone for reading and diagnose they told me there was was an engine flush/cleaning thing the did for $200. Worked for 6 months. Took back last week due to same issue. This time they determined that the head gasket was leaking and leaked into spark plugs. Replaced plugs, wires and coil overs, as well as new gasket and the engine cleaning thing again. $1200 later got the car back with no issues in last week and got rid of the burning oil smell. Crossing fingers that this fix sticks. Seems like the cleaning helped the issue but not cause previously. This time it seems like it fixed issue source.

Is the method suggested by Dallas Subaru essentially the same as by using scanner to clear the code? I thought it just temporarily clears the code but not fixes the issue, right? I was wondering how many folks above who said the method works later got the code back.

Been about a month and so far no problems.

Just an update, no further problems with check engine light coming on 2010 subaru forester again since my post six months ago. Washing car must have cleaned out a sensor or something. Now, anyone else have a problem with their seatheater causing a burn through the driver's seat fabric!!!?

i have a 2008 forester problem is cruise light would blink and the check engine lights on..now it make a noise in the trans,,...does not want to go into drive only reverse???? i changed the turbine but it still does the same thing...can have some hard gear change sometime...its runs good when it on the road......the hard to change gear mostly happens in the morning..cold start...please help

Shortly after purchasing a used 2005 Forester earlier this year (2016), I had a problem with a check engine light and my cruise control stopped working. All now seems well. In the process i learned (or at least read or was told and believe it to be true): 1. Subaru has programmed the vehicle so if the Check Engine light goes on, the cruise control feature is disabled--providing an incentive to get the light checked out by your dealer. Thus, if you experience these two phenomenon, focus on the light rather than trying to find out what's wrong with your cruise control. 2. If the Check Engine light is lit but not flashing, it i okay to drive but have it checked as soon as reasonably convenient. if it is flashing, you have a serious problem and should probably pull over until it can be checked out. (I'm not a mechanic, so don't rely on this as "expert advice.") 3. In my case, the repeated "Check Engine" lights were all tied to a problem with the gas cap. I would stop at Advanced Auto for a free reading of the codes and they would tell me to open and close the gas cap. If they then reset the code, it would run fine for hours or days--and then repeat the process. I bought a replacement cap from Advanced Auto that seemed to help for a few days, but the problem reoccurred. I found an OEM Subaru cap for the 2005 Forester, installed it myself, and several months have gone by without a problem. Not sure if this will help anyone, but if so I'm pleased.

code 420 is car is running rich. did not read all the posts but here is a solution we do all the time. NGK plugs and Six Star plug wires. if you ohm plug wires and they are over 5 ohms the are not firing plug hot enough to burn all the gas and car runs rich. Miss fires 3 and 4 at same time look at live data at 2500 to 2700 RPM is a vacuum leak. check line on fuel rail. if it is 4500 RPM and a manual transmission neutral safety switch. Car hit 4500 and defaults into limp mode and shuts down rear cylinders thus 3 4 miss fire. Only job of rear O2 is to tell if catalytic converter is burning spent fuel. if the rear o2 on live data is sold zero, rear o2 is bad. if plugs and wires are good and front o2 is reading above or below 6 and -6 front o2 could be bad. bad plugs car runs rich, bad wires car runs rich, bad idle air control valve car runs rich. dirty or plugged air filter car runs rich. bad front 02 sensor on some models car runs rich. bad air flow meter, car can run rich. Great mechanics should be able to solve. Poor mechanics are going to send you to dealer. Dealership poor mechanics are going to throw parts at it. S-Wings stuff Denver doing Subaru's since 1984.

I get the 420 code occasionally but mainly I get the 457 code. Every three days actually. I've replaced the gas cap twice. CEL stopped for 10 days the lady time in changed it but now it's back to every 3 days

Impreza 2005. CE solid and blinking CC, opened and re-closed gas cap tightly. Disconnected negative cable from battery for ~30 minutes and reconnected. Lights went out. I'm not sure if disconnecting the cables "ignores" the warning, or forces a reset / re-check of some kind. Just dropping in my two cents.

Your actions on the gas cap were irrelevant: disconnecting the battery resets the computer and wipes all the codes, so there is no way of knowing what the code was. NEXT time it happens, stop at an autozone and get a free code reading. They can reset it with the code reader, and then spend the $15-20 to buy a code reader (good ones are mentioned in this string) and you can read/reset as needed.

So tired of the disconnect the battery advice: this is a BAD idea. Buy a code reader or get a free code reading at Autozone. Knowing the code is key to solving the problem. Even if it is intermittent problem (I have had several that only occurred at intervals of hundreds or thousands of miles, and have one now that has been going on like that for 20,000 miles that could be multiple things, but can't really diagnose until it happens frequently enough to show up in a component test!) The tool is cheap, and at least you will know if it is probably an oxygen sensor, a loose gas cap, a misfire, or a bad catalyst. The loose gas cap can happen, and if you tighten it and the code goes away in a few days (codes clear after a number of cycles), good for you. The code tool also lets you know if your mechanic is honest, and if you share that you read the code, they can give you an honest estimate without a "diagnostic fee that is refundable if you get the repair done here"

My 2007 Subaru Forester had this problem 2 months ago after I got an oil change at the dealer. Brought the car back to the dealer and was told that I need a new gas cap for $34!! After driving the car for about 1200 miles, the lights came on again. I was traveling, so I just have to keep driving and after 2,000 miles, the car is still driving fine. Now I brought the car to a local mechanic, and was told that I need a new gas cap again, but this time I'm putting in a generic gas cap, lets see how long this will last. I had a 2001 Subaru Forester before, CEL keeps coming on, eventually I had the mechanic did the smoke test, and that I needed a new fuel neck, replaced that and the light doesn't come on again. Too bad some bimbo texting/drunk hit my car from behind and totaled it.

After reading through these comments, I feel fortunate that I was able to fix the issue with my 2010 Forester. CE, CC and blinking TC. Car needed a new gas vent, charcoal canister and vent control solenoid drain hose had a major clog. All better now!

How much did all of that cost you? I have a 2010 Outback that I have to reset every three days. I have replaced the gas cap twice and that worked for about ten days.

This thread is really helpful. Last night, driving in the dark, the Check Engine light came on with the Cruise Control flashing. After reading through this thread, I went out and checked the gas cap--and it wasn't seated properly. I drove to a nearby gas station and filled the tank, making sure the cap was on correctly this time. This morning, I did some highway driving. And then I sat in a parking lot with the key turned to Accessories but without starting the engine for about a minute. When I next started the car, the lights were out. Will keep you posted as time goes on. I had a similar problem with a Saturn SL2, so this gas cap problem isn't unique to Subaru.

I have a 2004 XT Turbo Forester made in 2005. When I get the Check Engine Light (CEL) and the Cruise Control Light (CCL) flashing my engine cuts off ... completely. I have to wait 10 min before I can start the engine and have power. This is not good. So far I have had the car into Subaru twice with a "Subaru Master Mechanic" troubleshooting the problem... $90.00 later for problem solving fee and all day at the shop with a cleaning of the contacts. Fortunately I have been on neighborhood roads and able to get to a side road or parking lot the times this has happened. I am going to take the car back to Subaru with a list of things for the mechanic to check to see what is wrong. Thank you for all solutions to your particular problems, they are all on my list. One exception is the unplug the battery, that one does not solve anything. I have been getting regular OIL changes and only use 93 Octane gas. Today I put in some STP gas treatment along with a full tank of gas (lights went off after rest of 45 min.) Will see if this light problem occurs again. This has happened 4 times over the last year. Twice on chilly nights with temps ~32-36 F and once with "very little gas" in warm temps over 80 F, another time with "little gas - fumes really" but forget temps.

First thing is to either buy a code reader (less than $20 at amazon or similar, see my posts above), and find out the code it is throwing. If you are losing power, it is a failed sensor most likely. Mass air flow sensor is a good bet. Being intermittent is the only part that is confusing. Another alternative is to pull into an autozone or other chain that will lend you a code reader or read the code for you. This nonsense about disconnecting the battery is idiotic. A code reader will reset the codes without doing that. It is just stupid to do that.

I have had CEL issues from the first Forester in 2000 onwards. In my case it turned out to be the fuel pump sensor meanin fuel pump was the issue. But the CEL light still comes on and cruise control light now on 2004 Forester is on, and LAST NIGHT Christmas day evening, it lost power completely which is to me fuel pump period.

BUY a code reader, and you will have a better idea what is causing it. More likely the MAF sensor for complete power loss than the fuel pump, and lots of other things could cause it too.

I have had CEL issues from the first Forester in 2000 onwards. In my case it turned out to be the fuel pump sensor meanin fuel pump was the issue. But the CEL light still comes on and cruise control light now on 2004 Forester is on, and LAST NIGHT Christmas day evening, it lost power completely which is to me fuel pump period.

By flicking the cruise control to off several times and waiting a few minutes, i got power back and was able to get home last night. so the problem is the sensor at the fuel pump since it is tied to BOTH check engine light AND the cruise control light. So check that sensor and your fuel pump.

The CEL light comes on and cruise flashes for ALL codes on most Subarus made in the past decade and a half, so that is NOT an indication of fuel pump or anything else. Once again, an inexpensive code reader or a stop at AutoZone or a similar store that will read and reset codes for free is the best option

The problem with the engine and cruse control lights coming on has happened to me two times siince I first posted. Each time I followed Dallas Subaru's procedure and problem solved. After the second time I checked the gas cap and it was not seated good. After a fill up double check and make sure the bozos at the gas pump tightened it enough. Push hard and turn a few times. I have not had a problem since I started doing this.

Update on my CEL and CCL and engine cut off problem. I stopped at the Auto-Parts store nearby and got the code --P2138-- which is --Throttle Position Sensor-- error. Now Subaru repair guy last time cleaned the contacts and etc. and of course, did not tell me the error message that they got. I wonder if ... because it is the "dear" dealer and "they" really want to sell me another car ... or if they just did not have the right person work on my car. The auto part guy said for the gas peddle and sensor, which come together, for $206.00 which can be installed by any shop (I have a good one) so I probably now have to start taking my car to a non dealer repair shop. If that does not fix the problem then the gas pump. This should not be such a hard problem to diagnose nor FIX!!! I did put in STP gas enhancer and "good" gas and the car shut off again in the cold weather but this time the tank was 3/4 full.

Kudos Al_Meg, Perfect example of why you should ALWAYS get the code causing the problem and ignore the MORONS who suggest resetting the CEL by disconnecting the battery (which LOSES the code that you NEED to know). A smart alternative is to buy the (max $20) code reader and know what you are getting into when you go into the shop.

"Caution when Relying Only on Diagnostic Trouble Codes... Parts or components should not be replaced with reference to only a DTC. The vehicle service manual should be consulted for more information on possible causes of the fault, along with required testing. For example, if a DTC reports a sensor fault, replacement of the sensor is unlikely to resolve the underlying problem. The fault is most likely to be caused by the systems that the sensor is monitoring, but might even be caused by the wiring to the sensor itself. DTCs may also be triggered by faults earlier down the line. For example, a dirty MAF sensor might be causing the car to overcompensate in its fuel-trim adjustments. As a result, oxygen sensors are likely to report fuel mixture problems. So to avoid unpredictable hazards when fixing a vehicle based on it's DTC codes -- make sure you get a reliable OBD2 reader that'll thoroughly scan the vehicle for faults beyond traditional DTC codes." from Total Car Diagnostic Support,

Absolutely true! Only point I was making was that disconnecting the battery to clear the code and NEVER knowing what code it is is the worst possible way to address the problem. I have an intermittent P0420 code that I cannot get a clear diagnosis on for the last 30,000 miles. Intervals range from 80-8,000 miles between CEL incidents. I have cleaned my MAF sensor, I only buy top-tier gas, etc. When it gets to the point where it STAYS ON when reset, I will be able to get a clear diagnosis. I don't believe it is the cat... could be fuel injector, could be oxygen sensor, could be???? Even If I replace said items, it would be hundreds or thousands of miles to know if it is corrected.

I am going to have the Accelerator pedal replaced that has the sensor built in to it on Wednesday. I will not push my car off the road. Done that enough in my life time already. If this is not the problem solution then I will talk with the mechanic and have a go at the next thing. The next thing that is non $$ to me is I am going to drive the car not using the D (drive) notch to see what happens with a different user setting (for want of a better description). I will drive using the 3 notch when slowing down and then when I accelerate return to the D notch with speed 40+. I will try to see if user input changes the outcome. Cheers! "The only thing you can guarantee about a car is that it will break down." My Brother

For the last 18 months I've been having this same problem with my 2005 Subaru Forester (175,000 miles). The only thing that has seemed to help was advice I received from a guy who saw me staring at fuel additives in an auto parts store. He had heard of this too and said for me to try using a gas additive called "Lead" or something like that and to only use the most expensive gas. I tried it and it worked - but the additive was about $10.00 a bottle and I'd have to keep using it so I ended up having my fuel injection system cleaned when I had my oil changed and started using ATP gas treatment with the expensive gas. I didn't have a single problem for about 9 months. Then I loaned my car to someone for a few weeks and explained that they had to let the car almost run out of gas and use the treatment with the expensive gas. They said they would but judging by the unused bottles of gas treatment where I left them, don't think they did. Problem started back up again and keeps reappearing. What I have found it seems most likely to happen when the car isn't warmed up. After a couple of miles for some reason the acceleration stops - it is as if the cruise control has suddenly been set at zero. If I pull over and turn the car off and count to 10 and turn it back on it's fine. So I've learned to never use the inside lane of a traffic circle an to keep an eye out for safe spots to pull over at the second I feel the loss of acceleration. I will try getting my fuel injection system cleaned again, but this is really frustrating. It otherwise continues to be a great car.

CHANGE YOUR OIL and FILTER. And ask the mechanic to be sure reset the computer. ALL FIXED!!!

Tried the solution of Dallas_Subaru (about 2 years ago posted) and it works. lights came of and everything functions as usual and normal. Probably a reset of the motor management system

All of this sounds like it was written for my 2014 Forester. I unhooked one of the battery cables. Left it off for two hours. Put it back and the light stays off, until.... I start the car cold and take off. Light comes back on. I do it all over again with the battery. I did replace my fuel cap, I think that might have helped. The light can stay off for as many as two weeks and 750 miles. But drive away cold and it starts over. It also reset my non working cruise control.

Update on my CEL and CCL and engine cut off problem. code --P2138-- which is --Throttle Position Sensor-- error....--... **** I had the gas pedal replaced **** (the part with the sensor associated with the registered error code) about 2 months ago and so far *** no issues The CEL and CCL and engine cutting off... has not happened over the last 2 months. I am pleased but cautious. I will wait 9 months before I know this is fixed (~$200 part + ~$150 labor). I take good care of my 2004 Subi with oil changes on schedule and etc. !!!! Recommendation !!! get the error code and talk with an experienced mechanic. I did some research and talked with a few motor head friends and came to decision to start with Gas Pedal, good gas and STP gas additive for a few months. In a wait and see mode. (The car was "skipping" when I slowed down for a right hand turn and then catching and causing a little jerk which I did not report and that too is now gone!)

This has happened to me twice in the past couple of years with my '08 Forester. Each time it was caused by my inadvertently pushing the cruise control button in before fully starting the vehicle. After much angst I was able to rectify the situation by holding in the cruise control button while repeatedly turning the key between off and the first position. I cannot recall exactly the number of on/off turns or even if I sometimes turned it to the start position without cranking. It's cheap and worked for me, a 70 yo woman on her third Subaru in past 24 years.

Without a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) error code I can not compare your problem with mine. Error codes are the start to a solution, regardless of the evidence that is displayed.

2006 subaru forester engine light came on this am with blinking cc light. autozone said code p0420, catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1. oil was low, added more. hoping just a reset computer issue. ideas?

I had the Check Engine Light/Cruise Control flashing problem occur on my 2014 Forester. My yellow traction control light (squiggly tire marks behind car) also came on. Read the various posts here and remembered that when I lasted filled my gas tank, I had forgotten to replace my gas cap (replaced it when I arrived home). Just now, I removed and re-seated the gas cap - problem solved. Who would have thought! Thanks for the various comments here!

2006 Impreza,Outback Sport. THANKS!! Dallas-Subaru. Your advice fixed my car twice so far. I think it starts with not CLICKING the Gas cap after re-filling,At least in my case. Your advice is 2 years old but it works for me in 2017.

2015 Subaru Outback with less than 50,000 k on it developed a check engine problem while driving in snow/slush conditions.Several other ( ABS, directional ctrl,cruise,x- mode,info on or flashing to (get your attention).Had same problem with 04 NissanTitan Evap canister plugs up, makes for slow fuel up. vent located above rear axle where it will get most dirt,mud,dust,snow,etc (lightly whack with hockey stick every year saves $$$$$$ ) now where is it located on my SUBARU? I wonder? Former Nissan Owner and possibly Subaru also.

I have a 2012 Forester that I bought new in July of 2012. My problem with all 3 lights (CEL, Traction,CC) started in Aug of 2012 when I accelerated fast. Since then it's happened 5 times over the years & I can tell you that no changing or tightening of gas cap, no washing, no oil change or plain waiting has solved the problem. Going to the dealership & having them clear the codes has worked until the next time I accelerate fast. And even then it's hit or miss. Been told 2 pistons misfiring but mostly told ,"don't know". Frustrating! I'll try the Auto Zone code clear & I think I might investigate replacing the accelerator pedal. Subaru now wants to charge me $200.00 to reset code for diagnostic machine. BS!

I have a 2009 Impreza which I just had serviced 10 days earlier. Like many other people above, for no apparent reason, the CEL, cruise (blinking) and anti-slipping lights stayed on after turning on the engine. After reading all the very helpful tips above I managed to fix it. This is what I did: disconnect the negative lead on the battery for 30 minutes. After reconnecting it, turn your ignition to the first position (all lights will turn on) but do not start your car. Leave it like that for one minute or two. Then start the engine and voila it works, all lights are off! Great feeling.

I have a 2012 Forester which often I drive "on choise". When my cruise light starts on for no reason I simply switch off the car while driving and wel over 85% it works out. However I still don't understand how the cruising switch works out and why this happens. I am too busy to test it for this. Comments may be appreciated.

Same thing happened on my 2009 Forester. Changed the oil and filter, changed the air filter, cleaned fuel injectors and catalytic converter. Turned out it was a bad spark plug. Any kind of misfire causes the lights to come on. Cheap easy fix.

BTW, I always change my oil every 3000 miles and I further suspect these lights are due to them wanting me to take it in to THEM for a change. Will know more tomorrow.

Update - I had posted earlier about my ongoing problem with the ce light and flashing cc light. It's fixed and I've had zero problems in the 2 months since. Whereas it had escalated to me not being able to drive 4 miles around town without losing acceleration and having to pull over, shut the car off, count to 10 and restart. It turned out to be the throttle. Apparently there are two parts to the throttle body. For lack of better understanding, I'll call them the upper and lower. First he fixed one and then I drove it and it happened again and then he fixed the other for free. I'm very happy with the outcome. I should have taken it in sooner!

This blog has been so helpful! My 2012 turbo forester started with rattling sound few days last week midweek, then last Saturday check engine went on solid, cc and squiqly flashing, and low oil pressure light would flash only when stopping abruptly. Took it in to dealer right away on Monday morning, and they told me it was due to overdue oil change (yes, my fault) and I had damaged my engine and need a new engine...$12K!!! I bought it used and have only had it 2 years! Already had 1 $2K turbo repair done (covered under warranty). I was like..yeah...just let me pull it out of my...anyway, I had them put oil in it and left. Running fine, no rattling or anything, of course all the lights still on except no more oil pressure light on. I think it will be fine now. I hope. Taking it somewhere else to try to get the computer reset.

2008 Australian delivery turbo forester CEL, CC, TCL issue, code reader gave fault code P0037 post cat O2 sensor, clip holding loom had broken allowing loom to rub on tailshaft wearing through 1 wire, after repair and faults cleared no more issues. Something to check prior to replacement.

2005 2.5i engine and 5spd manual. CEL on, CC flashing but car was running PERFECTLY. I checked code and got P0420. Reset codes and now car runs HORRIBLY. Idle is shot and it feels as if it will stall. It stalled twice but started again immediately. It is now at about 400 rpm. Any ideas??

Fault code PO420 indicates CC issues. Check Subaru website as some model CC were recalled and replaced by Subaru. Wiping the codes will make them run badly for a while until the ECU re-learns all driving conditions as they are a self learning system.

Really, self learning? What a PITA. How long does it take to learn? I will check the recall. Is there an expiration on the recall? I mean if you wait too long they wont honor the recall?

I'm bookmarking this thread any time I need a good laugh! What a riot. Gas cap this and toggle that....lights on, off, blinking, stop, start...HA! Really, I'm laughing with you as my '06 Forester has CE solid and CC blinking. They both came on for the first time today, together. I'm going to try everything everyone has said...but first...Advance read my code and he said 9 of 10 times when the P042 code comes up....Catclean ($27) will fix it. It's a super powerful cleaner (similar to Techron) that you put in your gas tank at a quarter tank. It's interesting too...I'm late on an oil change. Great discussion!!