Stabilitrak and traction control light going off with blinking check engine light and rough idle

Ed92626 Thanks for the response but, the chain of events all took place within a 5 second window, and as I stated previously, I pulled over immediately after. I failed to mention that I only use Mobile1 full senthetic 5w-30 and consistantly check my oil level as well as keep up regular maintenance on my vehicle. I've also read on this site, as well as several others, along with youtube vids that this problem has happened numerous times, and with minimal to no prevail. I know without a shadow of a doubt that this was not caused by neglect. Just thought I'd try my luck in hopes to find someone who may have some insight on the problem. I've read that one of GM's goto answers is 4k for for an engine replacement, and some have threatened to file legal action as a result.

Cylinder misfire combined with low oil? I cant make it to the next oil change without adding oil. Cylider 7 is getting oil into it. Just had oil change now all kinds of lights are on. Im thinking that I'm now misfiring on multiple cylinders. Rough idle has always been the norm for my truck. Now it struggles under it's own weight to go up a hill.

Heru70...I am reaching out to you to see if you found anything out about this issue. I have been having almost the exact issue with an 07 z71. At 117k I REPLACED my trans. Things went well for a bit and then at a round 155k 3 things started 1- dash msg reflecting engine oil low after just changing it felt it may be erroneous and let it ride. 2- started getting what I would call a tapping when I started my motor that lasts for only a few seconds but does occur every time I start motor cold. I believe both of these issues are related to an oil sending unit (forgive my ignorance as I am not a mechanic and I am speculating...i did replace what I believe to be called an oil pressure sensor located at the upper rear of motor, sensor went away for a little while but then returned...so I am guessing this issue is related to something that sends oil not sure. 3rd and more on point I have a serious issue where when sitting and running but in park I start idling rough and shortly after traction control disengaged which leads to HARD shifting when I take off and then eventually reengages. I am already in fear of losing my second trans but now to have worries of my motor going is just mind blowing. This particular truck with the 5.3 has been a nightmare and seems to be par for the course from what i read. I have 188k on this truck and like you have sought to maintain regular spot maintenance. Unfortunately financial burdens have kept me from going to the dealer or a mechanic so have sought to bandaid everything as much as possible or do my own work. I realize for the readers that 188k is a lot but not in my world I have had more issues with this truck than any Chevy i have owned and fear it's on the last legs. But I would appreciate any theories you may have as I continue to research. Again thanks all for your input. Tim

Might be late, but just in case you haven't found the answer, I have the same exact problem, or about, I found that if you buy a old ll machine and clear the codes it'll run fine again, as far as the hard shifting and rough idling, I pinpointed it to be related to the camshaft inner magnet sensor. The one that receives the signal from the exterior camshaft sensor. I ride with my machine connected and ready to turn of that light, switched to shell gas premium and problem went away a whole year, just now it came back.

I have the same problem with my 2008 Chevy Tahoe ltz it has 180k miles and I already replaced the upstream co2 sensor, spark plugs and wires and a new mass airflow sensor and nothing still flashing traction control light blinking with the check engine light on and code p0300 misfire

Change spark plugs. Check gap on spark plugs before install. I know they are supposed to be pregapped. However if someone drops a box in shipping or a part store. It could mess up the gap. These are also mass production parts. Could be an assembly line or packaging issue. You should always check your plug gap. Before install. Engine misfire code causes rich exhaust conditions. The computer powers down the engine. To reduce damage to the catalytic converter. Untill the fuel air mixture is burning properly. First check plug gap. Second check wire leading from coil to plug. Third check coil. 4 check ignition module. Fifth check PCM. Very good probability that plug or wire is bad. Slight chance it's a coil. Very low chance it's ignition module or PCM.

Did you ever get an answer regarding the problem , same thing happened to my 2015 chev

Did anyone fix their problem? My 2010 is doing the same crap. Check engine light one. Stabilitytrack on. ABS ON. idling rough. Ticking noise. I have replaced all lifters. Basically rebuild my whole engine and still doing the same shit. I have replaced the censor below the steering wheel. Check battery terminals and still doing it. Im ready to set this truck on fire at GM PARKING LOT if they dont fix this problem.

Check compression if its pointing out at a particular cylinder could be a lifter collapse happen to me once now again i will check compression and look at my push rods and see they have excessive play I'm an intro mechanic work on diesel tractors not autos but went to UTI for diesel and auto and learning on my own !

My 2017 z71 LTZ with 30k just happened to me tonight in Hawaii. I have to go over the mountain pass to get it to the dealer 19 miles away. I'll let you know what the GM shop says next week

I have the same thing I put gas on the way home. About 2 min later my check engine light started flashing so I thought bad gas. Had rough idle tapping abs and stabilitrak and a flashing motor. Had code p0304. It turns out I did have a lifter on cylinder 4 out replaced the lifter and put everything back together. Still the same issue. But I do have a leak in the rear brakes passenger side so I know there is an issue there but why would I still have a misfire p300. Now it's random misfire and it's idling high. Reprogram?

Solution for my truck. 2013 silverado 4x4 z71. CEL,Stabilitrak, and traction control lights. Running very rough..occasional ticking. Towed it to the shop (independent) they told me #4 lifter had failed majorly and #7. And i needed to rebuild top of engine $4500 bucks, but said metal pribably in engine and really best to replace it for $6700. I parked the truck in yard for 4 months. The battery died (please keep reading) i jumped the truck off. Low and behold, it ran perfect!! All the light were gone ran perfect for 30 miles. I went home turned the truck off. I restarted the truck...all of the lights were back on, running rough and ticking..im thinking WTH. I disconnected the NEG battery cable drained the energy reconnected and started the truck. It ran perfect again!!!! Stut the truck off, then restarted all lights back on and running awful. Obviously it is not a mechanical problem, its electronics thats controling the AFM system....listen try disconnecting the neg terminal then restarting...long story cut short....i bought a Range bypass for AFM..my truck runs perfect...no engine rebuild...probably needs a new VLOM , bad solinoid or something...btw i did replace the small filter located in the VLOM just to make sure there was no sludge in there, before purchasing the Range bypass..not advertising for them here..there is another AFM bypass called diablo

Ok this is just my personal experience and opinion. I not a mechanic but I do know about car. I’m a auto body person.i Had this exact same problem with my wife Lexus. When the battery went dead after being out of town for week. We jump started it but the engine really lagged cranked over several times before starting. the track and engine light came on once it finally started.Same thing mis fire code. And gas cap code. I checked the gas cap and charged the battery And the lights went off on there own after driving a few miles.so my opinion is the car does not pressurize the fuel when trying to start the car when there is low voltage. So now to my 08 yukon same thing batter dies after not driving a few days and stabilizer & check engine came on with loss off power.Same as my wife Lexus same problem after both dead battery’s. So I turned my truck off rejump started it only this time I let the jumper cables set a few minutes before starting trying to start the truck so it would not lag or crank over a bunch of times before it finally starts . Let it set about 3-5 min with jumper cables it started immediately and stabilizer light was off but check engine light still on. I thought it was due to a mis fire code and had to be cleared.but I had my battery tested it was shot. Got a new battery put it in and low and behold check engine light off. My battery I think went bad to due to my alternator going out a few days prior. There related to each other in how the vehicle functions so if one goes out you might have to change both “alternator & battery “. It ran fine after that. My opinion is when the vehicles charging system is not working properly it send s the vehicle In to limp mode causing stabilizer & check engine light to turn on. I would strongly recommend checking out your vehicles charging system “ battery & alternator Before you spend thousands on unnecessary repairs !

I saw you posted 2 years ago. I have 2 gmc pickups a 2015 and a 2016. Both just rolled over 90K miles. Last Thurs the 2015 did exactly that. Last Sunday the 2016 did a repeat. This is not coincidence. Please help.

Sorry for this extremely late follow-up but, I discovered that the AFM/DOD (Active fuel management or displacement on demand) kicked in when I was driving at a moderate speed, and when I attempted to excelerate, the #7 cylinder didn't activate. This is what caused the entire problem. I watched a youtube vid where a guy explained the process and demonstrated a hit or miss hack as well as a permanant fix. I did the hack on my truck and fixed the problem. If you're currently experiencing the power loss, engine tap, and or oil consumption, check out the youtube vids put up by "crazedperformance", this guy is a genius. Also, if your vehicle has AFM/DOD, you may want to consider having this feature tuned out, and be sure to check your warranty so that it doesn't void it. Hope this helps.

Here's a link to the hack for the problem I was having. https://youtu.be/pP7I5tbXsfw

Today when I was driving to work, the service stabilitrak light came on and also the traction control light came on. I also started hearing a ticking from the motor. When I got to work I checked the motor and confirmed the motor is ticking. I have not checked the codes out yet and the oil level is good. Can anyone help or point in the right direction?

Went thru this twice on my 2012 silverado. Both time it was AFM lifters that got stuck. I have decent amount of experience with internals of the chevy engines so i opted to purchase the replacement lifters and did the work myself. Took a total of 4 hours to remove head, replace bad lifters, and get back on the road. I suggest replacinf all 8 of the AFM lifters at once, simply to avoid having to go in it a second time like i did. Money was avfactor, however looking back, i would have been better off replacing all of them the first time. I have since added the range disabler to avoid the AFM Mode all together. Truck is much more responsive and idles smooth all the time. Definately does not hurt your fuel milage. I am a contractor and drive my vehicle 100-200 miles every day and i definately see no diffetence in having the active fuel management mode functioning vs. Not !!!!!

Happened on my 2007 with 206K. Codes showed misfire on #8 and #8 fuel injector. Changed all plugs and wires along with #8 coil pack. Problem solved.

I running the same proble right now, I'm investigating with my mecanich to see if we find the solution, all i can tell you its this happen to me every morning or when the enginebis cold what i find out it's if i erased the code ut take like 10 blocks driving then go back to normal running better.

OK, so I had the hard misfire issue as well from this 07 sierra z71 maxx I just got. When I got it it was misfiring but just a little. Then, more recently, it started misfiring really hard and even under load. I looked over everything (it has 180k) and I felt it was the coils. So I replaced the coils, plugs, and wires. It has no problems misfiring anymore.

check engine light? scan for your code and go from there. period! advanced auto scans for FREE. - found PO307 code - means cylinder #7 plug fouled out. changed plug, problem solved. if you get a PO30? code of any kind? 301? cylinder #1, 302? cylinder #2, and #3 and so on and so forth... blah blah blah... just change ALL PLUGS/WIRES to eliminate ANY and ALL cylinder misfires, (your plugs, and wires, definitely need changed anyways if youre over 100K miles on your truck), change your air filter, clean your IAC MAF sensor with cleaner takes 2 minutes, and change your oil, or top-off with the recommended weighted synthetic oil. When your done, to clear all codes?..., pull your negative battery terminal off for an hour (time it), and reinstall later (an hour), and fire up truck, and codes cleared and gone. Done. A little maintenance goes a long way her folks. IF your NOT mechanically inclined do NOT attempt yourself, take to your local mechanic period. thats my experience, strength, and hope that you can solve your issues as well. **** (Changing your air filter with each oil change helps as well!!... go look at its probably in need of changing. I know how people are trying to just get by these days, but your vehicle will FAIL eventually (PO300 Code means FAILURE of internal engine parts) be in the junkyard if you dont do the regular maintenance.) **** Period. Thanks... Dantheman Johnson

The fix is in this video even when the dealer suggest its a bad lifter this will still work. There are few steps to follow. Try not to skip as all the steps required to get it fixed. Good luck. https://youtu.be/i5hQrBL9OrU