96 Chevy C1500 5.7L Vortec Truck won't start, Replaced Fuel Pump, Filter & Has Spark.

these trucks have to have between 55-65psi of fuel to run. Get a pressure tester and check it. I have a feeling it is the fuel pressure regulator

squirt a little starting fluid inside TBI and crank it if starts the fuel is not reaching the injectors if it doesn't the issue is with the ignition the distributor module is known to fail shoot me a inbox and I can help I work on this models all the time and own 2 I live in polk county fl and this trucks are very popular here goodluck and godbless

Did you happen to ever figure out the problem? I've been having the same problem and haven't been able to figure it out since May. If so please help me thanks..

Hi, our 1999 CHEVROLET C1500/K1500 is having the same issue. After sittiing for a few hours, we have to crank it and eventually put a little gas or tarting fluid in the throttle body for our truck to start but runs and drives fine once it does start and will start right up after only sitting for about an hour or so.

Replace the ignition switch module! My truck had the same issue. GM was having ignition switch problem way back in the 90's as well. Replace the ignition switch and the crank shaft sensor.

I have the same problem with my 96 silverado 5.7 vortec but its only when its cold. It will turn over but won't start. I have to use starting fluid but then it runs fine once its started. What could cause it not to start when its cold?

Did you check wire harness goig around passenger side of block. Pink wire can get hot and ground out on block causing this. I replaced 6 pumps before finding this. Also check ecm1 fuse

I also have the same issue. I live in Maine so naturally its cold and won't start. I put heat on it over night it would start fine. Now it won't start at all. Not with starting fluid either I'm real frustrated with it now. Anyone have any fixes

Fuel pressure reads 63 batt. Is fine it has a new cap and rotor i can't get this friggin truck going and need it to get me to work on Monday. Help me

try replacing the fuel relay!!!

2/23/15 I am having the same problem with my 96 CK 1500. Replaced fuel pump, fuel regulator. It runs fine in warmer weather and if I turn the key and let the fuel pump cycle a minute before starting it. But as soon as it tuned cold it wont start again. Any suggestions??

Off topic but can anyone help me out if have a 98 C1500 5.0L Vortec. I kept getting a P1351 code which is high voltage to ign control circuit. I replaced the ICM and the Crank sensor with AC Delco parts. new coil cap and rotor wired ect. I was getting the code intermittently for a few months and now it wont spark at all. I even had it towed and had the computer changed and still no spark any suggestions.

Make sure the wiring isn't shorting out somewhere

Try changing your blinker fluid

Nick sounds like you have a misfiring distributor sounds like the fire is jumping around on the inside of the block instead of coming out through your cap try changing your distributor

well I have 60 pounds of fuel pressure and fireing right I have changed everything on it cranck sensor cam sensor plugs wires and checked all my wireing but still have to poor gas in it to crank it cold or hot

On the 98 the passlock is a module in the column and the key switch goes inside it. There is a contact inside this module that reacts to a change in magnetic field when the key switch is turned. There are three wires that come off the top of the module. I skinned a spot on the orange wire an grounded it when turning the key, This triggered the security feature, which is reset by bumping the key and then letting sit for 10 minutes, then turn the key off for at least 10 seconds. You may have to repeat this up to 3 times. (charger or jumper cables may be needed) Once this is done, and the key is turned on, the security light should come on when starting and then go off and the vehicle should crank. This is what fixed my problem when the ignition key switch was changed out. FYI - If the pass lock isn't working properly, the computer will not keep the fuel pump on when the key is turned to start and released.

Note: If the battery dies or is disconnected, or the computer is disconnected, this procedure may have to be repeated.

The fix for mine is in the passlock system. I could likely change the module in the steering column and reset the system and it would work fine.

Also had a similar issue spin and no start with a 96 Chevy Express Van with the 5.7L. This vehicles issue turned out to be a shorted pink wire in the wiring harness that runs up the passenger side of the block. The vehicle had died while driving several times and wouldn't start. Then, finally after blowing a couple fuses, would start at all. The wire that was shorting finally burned in two. Check any place that the wiring harness is attached to the block.

I have 5.7 96 and I don't have any spark change camshaft senor crankshaft senor and distributor And coil and still no spark

I have 96 chevy 5.7 and I don't have any spark change camshaft senor crankshaft senor and distributor And coil and still no spark.i was driving it and just turn off like if I had ran out of gas

@crl123456 replacethe Ignition switch, problem solve.

I have a 96 Silverado 1500, and it did the exact same thing. It would fire with starting fluid after a line, filter, relay and pump replacement. It turned out the pump I put in was for a 96 C1500, which has a throttle body system and the pump only produced 20-30psi. The Fuel injection in the Silverado needs 55-65psi. Be very careful you didn't put the wrong fuel pump in!!

The Spider injector system started in 96. 95 and back had the old low pressure tbi. No 96 1500 had tbi

Why do the fuel pump keep burning out so quick? My original pump lasted 60k and 10 years. The next one lasted for 30k with a new screen filter on the pump for 5 years. The next one lasted for 3 years with a new screen. The last one lasted for a few months and also has a new screen. I just bought another And this time will replace the wiring harness and screen. I also replaced the entire fuel pump assembly it is contained in, as well as a new relay. It is no fun pulling the bed or dropping the tank! Any ideas why the fuel pump is dying quicker and quicker?

A common area is the ground strap builds resistance and causes pump failure.

Man i got a 97 Chevrolet vortec won't start in tell i put gas throttle body but when i press on the gas or put it in gear can some one help me with this question

When i put it in gear it turns of /\/\/\

It is a bit confusing what your problem is, but it sounds like your truck is fuel starved. My first suspicion is that the pump died. Get in the bed under the window and have someone put the key in and turn the ignition to on (but don't crank it). Can you hear the fuel pump power up? If it's quiet, then most likely that pump is shot! I cut a flap in my bed to access the pump. It took about two hours to replace the pump. There is a few other possibilities. The fuel pump relay could be shot, or the fuel filter could be clogged. You can test the relay by jumping two connectors using a paper clip ( I saw a utube video).

Put two new cyl heads on cause of cracks. Truck started and ran nice. Shut her down to finish fine work. Then wouldn't restart. I have spark and fuel pressure. I have replaced distributer cap rotor plugs wires. I have replaced fuel relay and checked fuses. I had this issue once before and replacing cap and rotor fixed it. Not this time. I'm thinking maybe a shorted wire somewhere. Oh yea. Mine fires too when fuel goes in throttle body. Insane

Soo I got a 92 chevy Silverado 1500 and about a week ago I went to the bank, came out and didn't want to start, and wasn't the battery because got a jump and nothing. Does anyone know what could it be?

Low fuel pressure is usually the cause. has to be above 50 psi with the key on and not cranking, and should not go down after you shut the key off for at least 20 minutes. The spec is 60 to 65 PSI under all operating conditions, so even 50 PSI is actually low. It is the minimum that will fire the injectors. The crappy fuel the oil companies make has wax and varnish in it too, purposely to plug up the fuel injectors and fuel filters. trouble is that the fuel pumps and filters are inside the gas tanks and a pain to remove and replace. they cause a suction on the fuel pump, and it can't build pressure. The crap in the fuel also is abrasive, and gradually breaks down the pump impeller, and also lowers the output pressure. There are also lots of cheap fuel pumps out there with substandard materials in them so they grind themselves out on the abrasive fuel and self destruct sooner. Always carry a spare pump and filter in the truck, and enough tools to take out the tank and replace them. The spark problem is the cheap drive gear that GM put on the distributor, which wears out and which lets the spark timing waunder all over the place and not match the crank sensor so it throws a code. The coils GM makes don't last. The control module right near the coil is a common failure point as well. GM has never been known for good electronics in any of their cars, and are designed to fail around 50K miles. If you want less trouble, buy a Ford or Dodge, or a Toyota. I personally won't buy any more GM cars, cause all they've made in the past 30 years is total trash. Engines fail, transmissions fail, electronics fail etc. A better question to ask is what is it in a GM vehicle that DOESN'T fail?

Many of you don't remember years ago when the Congress passed a bill requiring all cars sold in America to have a 100K engine and drive train warranty. When Ronnie Reagan (AKA Ronnie Raygun) became president he cancelled that 100K warranty, by executive order, because the car companies were screaming about it. Crappy cars were the result, and still are the result. GM became the worst. Ford the second worst, and Dodge the third. Gm and Dodge went Broke, and Ford nearly broke. They all deserved to go out of business, and should have been allowed to go broke. The car business ethics in this country are the poorest example of ethics and quality control on the planet. Just ask someone who owns one of their cars. All Toyota did to take over, was to make cars a little bit better, and I mean a little bit. Now they are following in the footsteps of the American car companies, and having the same result. Chinese cars will be here soon, and make theirs a little better and take over the business. Greedy American car companies better get their stuff together, or they will go out like the dinosaurs. It won't be because of something they couldn't control. It will be because of the greed they chose not to control.

I have had this problem many times the only thing that is wrong with it is the ignition module its $42 it will fix it

Good afternoon . I have 1996 Chevy z71 5.7 and the truck worked fine but after 20 min of running it would completely loose power . I would shut it off crank it up 15 min later truck would run fine . Put the scanner said it was crank and cam sensor changed them both together with the plugs and truck won't start now . Any help is appreciated

Sounds like the catalytic convertor. This is a famous tell tale with the losing power. Find a honest muffler shop and they can tell if it is failing by listening to the truck the way it runs now and after they remove the O2 sensor. There will be an ever so slight performance change with this check.

Hi guys I'm having problems with my 96 chevy 1500 my truck dies when I throttle up or hit the brakes while driving I have replaced fuel pump and filter My pressures are at 55 running I have changed spark plugs and I also checked cap and rotor and that all looks good I put scanner on it and says bank 1 lean and bank 2 lean I also pulled cats but they were not plugged and suggestions for the next move

I have a 96 5.7 Silverado cranks over but wont start spark plugs have no spark to the replaced some sensors and still noting also the cRank fuse has no power fuse good but no power to it what can it be

It turned out to be the crankshaft sensor I bought was a after market crankshaft sensor so went chevy house and bought one from them it started right up. Thanks for the help everyone. So don't go after market on the crankshaft sensor after 600 dollars lesson

I got a problem similar to this i have a 2000 denali i ran out of gas i put more in it didnt start after pourin gas in the throttle body it finally crunk i ccut it off and it didn't start again i did this process again and hit the gas it dies again more gas in throttle body finally it stay running but bogs and backfires real bad ... and it started the dying on acceleration again

And its not throwing no codes

Ok never trust aftermarket Chinese Dist Caps or rotors. They are all junk. my last one lasted 3,000 miles! They look ok but have steel posts in them plated with a micron of brass, and fail QUICK. It was running on 6 out of 8 cylinders. The distributors in these cars are made of plastic. Didn't believe it till I saw it with my own eyes! Replace them on Ebay for Chevy, billet aluminum complete, cap, rotor, sensor, about 60 bucks. The original Chevy Sensor in the distributor also has a HIGH failure rate. Running rough, or no power, is usually a fuel filter and or a fuel pump. Once again there are lots of cheap chinese fuel pumps that fail usually within a year. Mine was a Napa brand and lasted 5 years. These Spider injection set ups on the trucks have a weak fuel pressure regulator and it can leak inside the manifold and make it backfire and burn the CPI or spider fuel injection system, and can also crack or explode the plastic intake manifold top piece. They should be illegal. Mine blew up and caught fire. Lucky I got it out, but it burned the internal spider injection unit so it all had to be replaced. GM cars are designed to fail. They all suck. We need the 100K warranty back! Who's got the balls Mr. Obama? Certainly not you!

I have a 95 Chevy 1500 , I'm not getting any power to fuel pump our injectors, an when you turn the key on none of the lights on dash come on , like the oil our batt light.. The truck will turn over . I ran hot wire to fuel pump but still not getting fuel into injectors

I don't know if this will help anyone, but a few years ago, I about pulled my hair out trying to figure out what was wrong with my 91 chevy truck with 5.7. Sometimes it would start, sometimes not. It left me stranded several times. It would die going down the road. I tried everything. I was removing the ignition module from the distributor when I noticed the shaft wobbled a lot. The distributor was worn out so bad that the pick up coil would only make contact occasionally. The engine had around 200K on it. Since then I have changed distributors on at least six more of these engines with 100% success rate. Hope this helps someone.

Hi I got a 98 chevy z71 4x4 5.7 mine came out to be the ignition control module by the coil it be on a aluminum plate it does the same as the hei ignition under the rotor cap I bought on at the part house for $89.00 and it fired right up hope this helps y'all

I have a 98 Chevy truck 1500 v8 350.I have changed fuel pump,fuel filter,fuel relay,starter relay, and fuel pressure regulator.it will start then stays on for a min then shuts off like ran out of gas.I have replaced fuel pump twice thinking I got a bad one.today went got ignition switch and ignition module no luck will not stay running.please help

I no longer have the vehicle but I have figured it out! Make sure you have good spark and good fuel pressure and make sure you look up the recommendations per year, I asked for a gas tank for a 96 and the junkyard gave me one for a 95 with a new pump well in 95- they used 15psi Fuel pumps and in 96+ the new pumps should be at 60 psi. Of you have spark fuel and you've replaced ignition control module and it's still not running your spider injectors could be plugged up that's a $300 fun part to replace and they don't go bad often but it's a possibility. Thank you all for your answers.

I have checked the fuel pressure and if I open the valve there is no pressure at all I know gas is sopposed to shot out.its like there no gas getting to the injectors.when I went today to get a new fuel pump that's the first thing I asked if this the correct one.i guess I was hoping it wasn't the spider but I just don't under stand what's causing this problem I can get it started then just shuts off won't start until it sits for a bit

Alright it wouldn't be the spider injectors you could have a pinched line.. possibly or maybe a bad connection to your fuel pump gas should always be come out of that valve as long as you've tried starting it, also how much gas is in the tank? Maybe you have a line switched on the pump?

Alright today i got the spider and changed it. No luck it turns over just won't start I checked the valve there is still no fuel pressure. Now I don't here the fuel pump come on. My question is when you buy a fuel pump are you supposed to change the wiring connections that come with the new fuel pump. FYI this is the 2nd fuel pump I have change

ok, if you have no fuel pressure, did you check the fuel filter? there could be crud in the tank that floats to the fuel filter, and then plugs it up. when it is off for a while the suction/pressure goes to zero and the crud falls of of the filter screen and it will start again. I had a couple things wrong when my 96 silverado died. First the pressure regulator on the spider injector was leaking, the spider injector poppets were plugged up too. put in a new injection set, $300 bucks. Then the fuel pressure was low. Old pump was NAPA brand, lasted 5 years. then 35 to 40 psi, and truck wouldn't start unless I poured fuel into the intake, then would run ok but if it died I had to put more fuel in the intake. So new fuel pump and back up to 65 PSI. It also had intermittent spark and ran poorly after this. I tried the new spark controller and no difference. Then I did a new distributor and cap and rotor. Bingo. Ran like new. The old distributor is made of plastic! At 200K miles it was loose like a goose. The new one came off Ebay and was billet aluminum with a new optical sensor. Cost 67 dollars. I also noticed the fuel pump relay that controls the fuel pump was getting intermittent as well so I replaced that too. Funny how GM made it so everything crapped out at once. They must have put 50 engineers working for years on making it do that!!!!! But thats GM. I will never buy another one! Also one thing that may have burned out the distributor parts was the rotor and dist cap. they were new about a year ago from Ebay and made in China. They were completely worn out after 1K miles. couldnt believe that either. They said the Dist terminals were made of brass, but turned out to be brass plated steel. And, the steel was bad stuff too. All the posts inside the cap were half worn out and gone. The Rotor had burned through as well. This made the spark system go to full voltage to compensate, and the whole system burned out. Could it get any better? I won't buy anything GM again. Learned my lesson the hard way. Also every one of my last 5 GM vehicles burned out the transmission as well, and most had trouble with overheating and head gaskets too. GM is CRAP.

Since a faster-turning engine needs more fuel and the crankshaft position sensor tells the ECM how fast the engine is turning, the crankshaft position sensor is required by the fuel delivery system. Should the crankshaft position sensor malfunction, some ECMs will go into “limp home” mode and allow the driver to get home or to his or her mechanic. Once the vehicle has been turned off, it may not start until the crankshaft position sensor has been replaced and the codes have been cleared from the ECM. If the vehicle does go into limp home mode, the driver should get to the mechanic or home as soon as possible. Not only could the vehicle not start, but the fuel economy will suffer significantly as the ECM tries to “guess” how much fuel to dump into the cylinders.

Types of Crankshaft Position Sensors Depending on the manufacturer, your vehicle may have one of four types of crankshaft sensor: A magnetic pickup coil A Hall-effect sensor A magneto-resistive element An optical sensor. My truck is in limp home mode so know to figure out what kind of sensor i have. I will post what the problem was once i fix the problem.

Please let me know. Am looking it to crankshaft sensor now

Please help still no start on 98 Chevy truck 350 after replacing 2 fuel pump,fuel relay,starter relay, ingintion module switch fuel pump reluagtor and spider.any ideas greatly appreciated

Also I have no fuel pressure when I check the valve on the fuel line.also did change the fuel filter

I have a 91 1500 suburban 5.7 and in the morning it starts fine i drive for a bit and turn it off but when i try to get right back in a few minutes later it doesn't start can anybody tell me my problem

Sorry I have a question ,I have a 98vortec350. 1500,my security light comes on blinks when I turn the key to on. But my key has no chip. My truck has been crank no start since early summer when I replaced fuel pump You can cycle the pump several times and the pump makes a noise so I know it's working But it will get louder. After several try's then the truck will bump start. And will start back every time you shut it off as long as you don't leave it off for more than thirty mins. The the same thing all over again. Before you could let it sit over night and it would bump start not the case now new fuel pump filter crank sensor I'm disgusted Need a ford.

you should start by checking injector pulse....with a noid light...even though you have great fuel pressure it wont go threw the injectors unless they pulse'''

My husband is a mechanic he can fix it Emil usyournumber at joybutcher39@gmail. Com

im having a problem with my 1996 chevy silerado c 2500 3/4 ton 5.7 vortex I put a new battery and a new starter and it wont start what could be the problem

My 96 Chevy Cheyenne had the same problem. I finally found if I took the bottom off the steering column and took the wire coming down from the switch and pulled on them it would start. Then I noticed only some of my idiot lights would come on with the switch. The rest would come on when I pulled on the wires this let the truck start.

After changing fuel pump twice the spider new plugs wires. Tune complete and starter related fuel pump relay ING switch and module battery found out along it was the wiring harness coming from the fuel pump up to the engine.i unwrapped all the black tape from factory and the wiring had burned up. Just FYI to anyone

Had a no start issue 98 Chevy 1500 5.0 vortec died while driving. Would not restart has fuel pressure.. Checked spark by removing plug wire at spark plug #3 truck started up and ran on 7 cyl. I was very confused as I'm a certified technician upon inspecting the distributor cap I found what I believe to be a design fault the channel for number 3 rotor post runs directly by coil in/ rotor contact.. Went out bought a cap started right up.. Long story short of you have a no start 12v and fuel pressure pull # 3 plug wire 2nd one back on driver side if it starts repl. Cap

very helpful i replaced the cap 3 times already because every 2 or 3 months it just stops, its like something is shorting out. runs well then after that like i said ,it will not start after about2000 miles ,then once i replace the cap starts right away

I have a 98' GMC sierra 1500 350 5.7 2wd crank no start condition doesn't start or run at all just turns over and motor acts like it what's to start but just huffs and puffs out/off it shot out a P1351 ignition coil control high voltage I dont know where to start I just need help to fix my truck need it for work and to get around any help would be helpful, I replaced the distributor a couple weeks ago and icm and ignition coil and crank sensor wires and plugs, I've seen that maybe it could be the ignition switch or the after market distributor because the new one was like metal and the old one was plastic does that maybe play a factor please help me out asap!!!!

Please help, at the end of possibilities-- 2000 GMC 2500 4wd, 5.7. Started a month ago. would turn over but not crank, occaisionally I would get some type of faint 3 second ghost run that pushing the accelerator would not help, and neither would starting fluid sprayed down into the top after taking the air filter stuff on top. Changed out the coil and Ig Control module next to it but no luck. Tried it 100 times in 8 hours and had it towed to my mechanic that Immediately called and said it cranked right off the tow truck! A week later same thing but burned up a starter in the process of starting it... so replaced starter and went great for another week until another starter burned out. Replaced starter and the whole distributor from Auto Zone. Check engine light still on so took it in and the code said crank and cam sensors so the mechanic turned the distributor until is snap on computer machine said it was aligned at zero. He turned the check engine light off and it stayed off the rest of the day. This morning it is back on so went to AZ and their code thing said it was the ICM again, even though I just replaced it a month ago. Sat in their parking lot and took it off and replaced it with another new ICM and undid the positive battery cable for 5 seconds and hooked it back up, but the 'service engine soon' light was still on and the codes STILL said it's the ICM. What I have noticed is that even though the check engine light is on, sometimes when I start it cold it wants to die if I don't give it gas quickly and race it, and sometimes when I crank it cold it does that usual tiny amount of racing like I think it's supposed to, to get the engine warm fast, I guess kind of like an automatic choke. Also, yesterday when the mechanic lined back up the cam and crank sensor, it no longer throws this code, he thought the new started sounded funny so he checked the voltage going to it and I think he said it was at 300? and that was fine. Anyway... have replaced the ICM, coil, whole distributor, wires, plugs, and starter. What ELSE can I do or check?

TRY NEW KEY FIRST!!!! My old school classic style 2000 GMC quad cab 4wd, vortec 350, GMC does not have a chip in the key, so I never thought of this! I got that code out of the blue and couldn't get rid of it or get the truck reliable, so, like every other person on any thread anywhere has done with a P1351 code, I replaced just about everything on the truck - coil, battery, ignition control module, complete distributor, plugs, wires, starter, voltage regulator/alternator, crank sensor- everything except the BIG computer...and that was next! Even looked for shorts in the wiring and patched up a few frayed spots. After and intermittently in between each of the 20 things I fixed/replaced the 'Service Engine Soon' light would go off and come back on after each repair or 10-20 starts in between each repair... Mechanic after mechanic.... money after money... tow fees... UNTIL last night, when an old master said he recommended I try a new key, the original key if possible. So I went home, got the original key, put it in, SES light went out. Got a new key made at the home depot and used it all day. All appears well after driving it all day and intentionally starting it 30 times during the day. He said that it has something to do with the built in security system-- if the key is worn, and after 15 years it IS, mine so worn I could pull it out of the ignition with the truck running (and I liked that because I farm and I didn't have to restart the truck after getting out and getting back in after unlocking and opening 3 gates a day...6 times a day!) If it's worn it doesn't always hit the tumblers right and if it doesn't hit the lock tumblers right you can crank and crank but the security system won't fire the cylinders... or for sure it won't fit right every time, and so it prevent cranking intermittently, never knowing when that will happen. EVEN IF you don't have a chip in your key, it does have some type magnetic operation about the tumbler connection that trips or doesn't trip that start-up security system, and a worn key won't hit right and trip or untrip the security system right every time. SO......Took original key and had new key made. Did notice that the original key and the new key will not pull out of ignition like my old key did, and so far, so good, Mystery solved for me. This time.

Thanks Kevinmcnally, I just ran into that problem, a friend and I just discovered that issue I found your response on this page, and you confimed what we thought., will try tomorrow.

OK If you have a 97 and up to some year and it ran or runs warm not cold, or spits and sputters and you have checked spark, and fuel pressure at the schreider valve then its your single port injection system. if you spray starter fluid in the air cleaner and it starts then you need to replace (upgrade) to the multi port fuel injection system. mine was $300 and it made a night and day difference and it is a direct replacement for the single port. it is not hard and only takes an hour or two. simple hand tools. you should buy a new upper plenum gasket as well.

2005 Honda Accord, won't start no fire on coil and no fire on fuse changed fuse box inside and out still nothing please help

I have a 96 Chevy truck ex cab 5.7,won't start but would crank fine....all my dash lights and gauges stop working.....and half my fues box as well....put in new ignition switch and it done the trick...2nd one in the last 2years...FYI...

i have a chevy k2500 4x4 5.7 L ive done all my checks on my fuel system changed the fuel pump got 50 pounds of pressure to start tryed starting it now i can only get 20 pounds pressure ive checked power i got my 12v and ive test ed the relay is good ive made sure lines are cleared im at a lose and thise is my 4 fuel pump and yes fuel pump does turn on please help

I have a 1997 Chevy Cheyenne 5.7 vortec k2500. I experienced the same fuel/starting problem as RAVINMAGEE, CHRIS3KGT and this is how I managed to overcome it and NEVER experienced it since: 1. Replaced the in-tank fuel unit with a brand new one (fuel pump &metal housing) (electricals seem to have given in after sometime). (See pics) 2. Replaced the in-line fuel filter (see pics) 3. Installed an in-line fuel pump (I used the BOSCH 0580-464-070) just after the in-line fuel filter. This produces an additional 43.5 PSI of pressure in your fuel line, maintaining the required fuel pressure delivered to your engine. TOTAL COST was roughly NAD8k (NAMIBIAN DOLARS). Parts will obviously be MUCH cheaper in the US. This has worked for me. Good luck guys, feedback will be appreciated.

Hello. I had the same problem as a lot of you guys. Changed a lot of items from fuel pump, filter, regulator, distributor, rotor etc. I could spray with starting fluid and it would turn over. Sometimes it would stay running and some times it would die. Also had the issue of randomly falling dead also with no warning. Change the fuel injection spider. I have done that on 2 vehicles and have not had the issue sense. Found the part for about 225 on amazon. Dealer wanted 550 and 1200 for labor. 3 hrs and a little know how will save you a ton.

Ok so I have a 98 with a similar problem. Except it will start but it don't run worth a damn. It spits and sputters and backfires out the intake and exhaust. I replaced fuel pump regulator and filter no change. I checked the timing by finding tdc and pulled dizzy cap to make sure rotor was in the correct position and it was. So I replaced the ICM and it fired right up and ran great for about 5 min then slowly started doing the same exact thing all over again. Wtf is going on with this pos.

check the ground wires on the pump and make sure they are not hooked up backwards. I fought this for 6 months and had it in two shops. new fuel pumps come with a new pigtail. one ground is small, and the other one is bigger. Bigger one grounds the pump, and smaller one controls gauge. the smaller one will not ground pump enough if it is hooked up wrong! Good Luck!!

for the second day ive started my 1996 chevy surburban and once stopped, it would start only with a jump. today it wouldn't start at all, and the battery was drained now after having the battery fully charged, and getting a jump, and it does is turn over, can you help

I have a 98 Chevy truck 5.7 it turns over but will not start checked all fuses tell me something else to check

I have a 1998 k1500 4x4 with the 5.7 and it won't start when its cold out to spark and I have fuel at rail new distributor cap rotor wires plugs 6-8 months ago fuel is at between 60 and 65 psi please help

Well I have a 96 gmc c1500 got in my truck try ed to start it but would not start I turned the key but would not start so I had the. Fuel filter changed still no start so I had fuel pump installed and it started but then I drove it to the store and died in the middle of the street did that twice so I started to read all the reports from u guys and then I just went out to the fuse box and took the email 1 fuse out cleaned it put it back then took the injector. And relay fuse out then put it back and my truck started right up it's now been two days and has not a problem starts right up and no dieing thank u. All woman in need

I had the same problem all I know is that I did the same thing u did but I took the exam fuse 1 out cleaned it put it back and then I took the injector relay fuse out cleaned it put it back it started right up no problems and doesn't die anymore

Hi everyone, I have a 1997 Chevy Silverado 5.0L that it won't start, when I turn the key to on the terminal B3(85 on fuel relay) I get 12V for 1 second then the volt is not there anymore. Is this normal? Should the 12V be present all the time while the ignition switch is in the on position?

Did u ever find out what it was my 97 gmc 350 vortex is doing the same thing plz message me and let me no

Yes it was the the cracks shaft position sensor you have to buy the original one for chevy I bought an aftermarket from autozone and it did work.go to Chevrolet and buy it from them and haven't had a problem. I hope it helps

I found out that the fuel pump relay sent 12v for about 2 second and after the engine start the oil pressure switch continue to sent 12v to the pump. I went to the library and print out the wiring diagram of the fuel system. I replace the fuel pump and after one month the truck wouldn't start and this is went post my comment asking for help. This is the bottom line; the socket for the fuel pump relay had the clips vent and it was not making good contact with the relay pins creating high amps and I beleive this is what burn the pump. I took a pick and gently pull the clip back in position where the relay can make a good contact. Hopefully this help!

I found out that the fuel pump relay sent 12v for about 2 second and after the engine start the oil pressure switch continue to sent 12v to the pump. I went to the library and print out the wiring diagram of the fuel system. I replace the fuel pump and after one month the truck wouldn't start and this is went post my comment asking for help. This is the bottom line; the socket for the fuel pump relay had the clips vent and it was not making good contact with the relay pins creating high amps and I beleive this is what burn the pump. I took a pick and gently pull the clip back in position where the relay can make a good contact. The truck is been running since. Hopefully this help!

I'm having the same issue with my 96 right now.

My 96 chevy 1500 fuel pump goes out every month and I dont know why, I need help

I'm sorry but if by want ur truck to blow up keep using I would look deeper for a lot better..believe me I know...

I have a 96 ck1500 replaced fuel filter, plugs, wires. Plugs on pass side were black, driver side clean. Used fuel like crazy, could smell it. Now will start but not run. Put seafoam in throttle body, got 5 sec of black smoke from tailpipe. Put fuel injector cleaner in tank. What is next step. Don't want to give up. Luv this truck

1998 GMC 1500 215,000 miles Started up fine and was idling when I put it into gear it just died and now won’t start. Replaced the fuel pump fuel filter ignition coil and fuel pump relay. It would run if I pour gas down the throttle body but now it won’t anymore. Put a tester on it has no codes was showing rm reading and I have 12v to the fuel pump. Please help!

I have a 94 Chevy Astro that would die like the switch was shut off and fail to restart, fail to start whether hot or cold, crank forever but not start. Mechanic replaced fuel pump, fuel wouldn't go to the rail, replaced spider injectors, it ran for a few months before it did it again. Mechanic replaced steering column, including ignition (which was giving me problems), Did it again, mechanic replaced starter coil, worked a few times and same thing again. I researched it and found a site that listed failure of spider injectors with bad ICM. Replaced ICM, so far, so good. fingers crossed

Had a no start issue on my 5.7 Vortec 1999 Chevy Tahoe. Fuel pressure was ok, spark seemed ok. Thanks to @kevinmcnally I removed spark plug wire #3 and it fired up. So I guess even if you have spark at the plug it’s not enough to ignite the spark plugs. Here’s a picture of the short I found in the rotor.

It could be your pass lock module. If it is bad it will shut down your fuel pump and not let your truck get fuel. Mine went bad on my truck and I replaced the fuel pump and relay before figuring it out. Its located under your dash by your cigarette lighter plug in. Little black box. It's not the easiest to get to and they dont sell them anymore so you'll have to find someone who rebuilds them. Just make sure you get the right one and match numbers

My 98 Silverado had same problem the rubber gasket on the throttle body was pushed out of place I loosened screws & put gasket back in place tightened screws and it started fine, if it ever backfires it can pop this gasket out be careful with the starting fluid

Starts fine warm but doesn't when cold. Fuel pressure regulator on the 5.7 spider injection. If you have 55-60 psi to the intake, that's your problem. Need to remove intake to change it. For the time it takes and the price of a new one, I only use that truck to plow snow, so I plug it in when I need to use it.

The plug on the distributor are bad about going out on these trucks. I buy and flip them all time. Seems like every time it wont crank this is the issue. If you use starter fluid and it wont crank 9 times out of ten this is the issue from my experience.

i have a 98 Chevy 5.7 vortex and im having the same problem as you guys been through the crank sensor and grounds battery, etc, it will start and run for a min then it dies like its not getting the fuel it needs to keep running. i just put a new motor and trans in at the sometime lots of wires. i put back together myself and everything is where it needs to be timing has been checked 3 times and still cant get it to run right could i be getting a ground then losing it when its running to cause this or is it something else. thanks in advance for any advice

I am also running into that issue, My 1999 tahoe limited with a whipple just shut down while driving. It wouldn't start back up. It needed a fuel pump and now has 60psi pressure holding. The ICM was replaced as well it will start with ether for a few seconds until it burns out so it has spark and fuel but won't start. I am leaning towards the PCM because it shows no codes although the check engine light is on when trying to start and after I start it with ether the check engine light shuts off. Does this sound correct or is there anything else I am missing or can check this in anyway?Thank you

I do not have any security lights in anyway either so I do not think it is security related.

garbage in garbage out

Here goes: givens (what I know for sure): Chevy Silverado 1500 truck, 4 wheel drive, 1996. 5.7 engine New parts in: fuel filter (primary or sock, 2ndary or in line can, fuel pump, spark plugs, wires, distributor complete assembly and timed, cam shaft sensor, block temp sensor, left and right Oxygen sensors, last but not least : mass air flow sensor. (Note: it turns out that those who listen to the OBDII (on board diagnostic) system will be the not so proud owner of an extra ignition system of just about every component of the ignition system of this model of engine if you believe what your OBDII tells you. Those dollars in those components could support an entire 3 world country out of poverty ....) Pressure gauge at Schrader valve port is 60psi. Running condition: rough even when warm. starting condition: must have starting fluid to start only runs down the road when warm. Finally took in to have a mechanic look over my troubles and gave them a $500 budget. The diagnostic reader pointed to mass air flow sensor, they changed it, still no change in running condition, they had just enough left of budget to check other operating conditions and found that even though I had 60 psi at fuel rail My fuel system only allowed for a little VOLUME of fuel to be delivered at the Fuel Rail (schrader valve port). They had a snap on fuel gauge that measured volume - unfamiliar to me, I don't know everything it turns out. The new direction Im heading now, is to determine where the volume of fuel is going. the removal of pump revealed no leaks at connection internally inside tank. No external leaks. bench tested pump and it pumped 4 liters a min. I will test at schrader valve to compare. Any suggestions or results of similar experiences......????

Always start with the basics. Spark fuel compression. Air is normally a give. (Check air filter). Pull plugs see running condition. White? Lean mixture. 60-66 psi is spec pressure if you are getting that it’s likely the spider injection. If the plugs are black they are fouled. Oil or fuel leak. Possible injector bad rings or gasket. Plug has white specs? That’s usually coolant and you need a head gasket. Check coolant for contamination to verify. Check all grounds the more the better. These trucks run off electrostatic components and can and will fry with a simple touch from you carrying static

i have a 1995 Tahoe Lt 2 door 4x4 and it has a vortec 350 v8 in it and it wont start. it runs just fine with starting fluid but it slows to a stop without it. it has a new fuel pump, tank, plug wires so, i dont know what to do, imma try to clean the throttle body but other than that, help me

I had to he same issue on my 96 Chevy 1500. After throwing a lot of parts at it and chasing down forum after forum it turned out to be the grounding cable from the engine block to the frame. It looked decent from the eye but as soon as I grabbed the cable it crumbled apart. The fuel pump would turn on and I had spark and everything but I couldn’t get enough fuel pressure with the bad ground.

Hi all! Last year we inherited a 1996 Chevy C1500 5.7 Vortec, 2WD, Automatic. The motor and tranny were replaced (with rebuilt) about 2 1/2 years ago. It’s run rough (by my standards) since we got it, but only recently started just not running. It is having issues staying running. It will start and sputter and die. Or it will start and run just fine only to leave you stranded on the side of the road an hour (and a couple of stops/starts) later. Since the last time it did this, it has not started. I was getting these codes: P0134 P0174 P0300 So far, I’ve changed: Spark plugs fuel filter fuel pump S1B1 O2 sensor (p0134 code) Ignition coil Ignition control module Now it cranks and just won’t CATCH. I’m at the end of my wits. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

This is another credit to kevinmcnally and his #3 cylinder cross-spark finding. I also had this same exact issue. 1999 Express 2500 8600 GVWR Cargo Van, 350 Vortec. Runs fantastic, 129k original miles. Meticulously maintained by me, as I am also a professional mechanic. I even put the upgraded true multi-point EFI spider in, AC Delco #19210687. Van up and died on me while driving, 25 miles away from home. $300 tow back to my house. Fuel pump is clearly audible, pressure gauge confirms 62psi. All fuses good, left kick-panel and left side under the hood. Had great spark, pulled the coil wire at the cap and grounded to block while cranking. Then pulled #3 wire at the cap. Just for trouble-shooting sake, I grounded #3 cap terminal to the block and it produced the same fire-storm of spark that the coil did. All the spark energy was dumping into #3 output terminal! Being a van, somewhat easier to do this as its inside the cab. Engine finally started, ran on 7 cylinders. I shut it off after only a few seconds, I heard enough to be satisfied. Here's the kicker: OEM AC Delco plastic distributor (installed at GM dealer by previous owner, just before I bought the van in 2011) but I installed a UNITED IGNITION brass-terminal blue cap & rotor only 4000 MILES AGO! AC Delco double iridium plugs and Packard wires at the same time. I will never buy United Ignition products again. I even pulled their OEM replacement coil off and ordered up all new Dephi parts; cap, rotor, coil. Never run an MSD coil on these, which I did when I first bought the van (only used on the OEM AC Delco cap, never used with this blue United cap/rotor). It's clearly a design flaw with that cap, so any additional spark voltage will speed up the failure. Also, if you haven't upgraded your stock aluminum AFM to the new plastic Delphi design, you need to ASAP. It fixes low RPM/speed driveability problems you never even realized you had! I thought the sluggish, gutless performance under 35mph or so was just normal. Put one into my dad's 2003 S10 and he was pleased with the improved performance as well. Tip: only use paper air filters, K&N oil ruins AFM's.